Advice sought, please, on the Omega Cosmic Moonphase?

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A Happy New Year everyone, and to OF admin of course.
My latest 'grail', and a resolution for 2026, is to add an Omega Cosmic Moonphase to my small collection. My original intention was to find one that wifey might kindly buy me for Christmas, but the months have rolled by! Having spent months stalking chrono24, ebay, auctions etc, I am no further forward...probably over-cautious, having been stung a couple of times in the past. Anyway, I'm now doing what I should have in the first place, and seeking advice from the wise folk on here; what to look out for, safest place to buy, any specific issues with these, price range....condition dependent of course. Will be settling for the standard....the tank would be nice, but not unless the wife wins the lottery! Many thanks in advance.
 
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Just to add, I've just spotted codytza444's entry, and responses, from last month, which have provided answers, but mainly about dial authenticity. Some contributors did, though, seem to infer that these moonphase models are problematic?
 
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It is extremely hard to find a decent example with an original dial. I'd start by studying correct dials so that you know every detail by heart. That way, you will immediately rule out 99% of the watches you find and not waste time. Since almost every example you find has a repainted dial, you may have an unrealistic idea of what a good one will cost, so make sure you track down some auction sales of nice watches.
 
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These are really great watches and I think one of the most attractive and special vintage Omega's of the late 1940's - early 1950's.

The first thing to look out for of course is the dial. As I'm sure you have read many, many, many have been redialled, the majority more than likely due to water damage. With a snap back case and all those non-waterproofed correctors on both sides you could see it as wearing a small sieve on your wrist! Well, that is an exaggeration but these are not a watch to wear whilst doing the dishes....and I'm extremely conscious whilst washing my hands. Having said that for the rest they are just like any other dress watch from this period and whilst I certainly wouldn't wear one for heavy gardening, neither would I wear a 50's Constellation for that kind of thing either.

Parts can be both tricky to find and expensive depending on what is needed with date adjustor parts the hardest to get. So buying one in working condition is advisable if you don't want to be faffing about for months to get all the bits together. Servicing them is more expensive than a simple three hander, about the same as a chrono normally.

Pleasure of ownership is high....be aware they can become addictive as in typical Omega 1950's fashion there are a myriad of different dial designs.

Best thing to do is check in here if you find something.

Good ones go for good money and to add to @Dan S comments about pricing I'd say that the start price for a good 2471 in steel with a decent dial and case is about €3K-€3.5K rising depending on sharpness of case and crispness of dial. About the same for a gold top 2606 and the gold filled jumbo 2486. Jumbos in steel are generally a lot more expensive €7.5K-€10K+ if you can find one. Gold 3944 are thin on the ground and start at €8K-€9K. Black dials, Farsi dials, etc increase all these starting levels. The solid gold round references I don't really follow, but these are also now probably around €7K starting in decent shape, rising quickly the better the dial and case.
Edited:
 
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These are really great watches and I think one of the most attractive and special vintage Omega's of the late 1940's - early 1950's.

The first thing to look out for of course is the dial. As I'm sure you have read many, many, many have been redialled, the majority more than likely due to water damage. With a snap back case and all those non-waterproofed correctors on both sides you could see it as wearing a small sieve on your wrist! Well, that is an exaggeration but these are not a watch to wear whilst doing the dishes....and I'm extremely conscious whilst washing my hands. Having said that for the rest they are just like any other dress watch from this period and whilst I certainly wouldn't wear one for heavy gardening, neither would I wear a 50's Constellation for that kind of thing either.

Parts can be both tricky to find and expensive depending on what is needed with date adjustor parts the hardest to get. So buying one in working condition is advisable if you don't want to be faffing about for months to get all the bits together. Servicing them is more expensive than a simple three hander, about the same as a chrono normally.

Pleasure of ownership is high....be aware they can become addictive as in typical Omega 1950's fashion there are a myriad of different dial designs.

Best thing to do is check in here if you find something.

Good ones go for good money and to add to @Dan S comments about pricing I'd say that the start price for a good 2471 in steel with a decent dial and case is about €3K-€3.5K rising depending on sharpness of case and crispness of dial. About the same for a gold top 2606 and the gold filled jumbo 2486. Jumbos in steel are generally a lot more expensive €7.5K-€10K+ if you can find one. Gold 3944 are thin on the ground and start at €8K-€9K. Black dials, Farsi dials, etc increase all these starting levels. The solid gold round references I don't really follow, but these are also now probably around €7K starting in decent shape, rising quickly the better the dial and case.
Many thanks, your advice is very helpful and much appreciated. It seems to have been the same with every watch in my collection,... months of searching and many, many hours of reading. With the greater majority of dials having been redialed it is going to be a long haul, but either that or settle for second best....not in my nature. It does make you wonder, though, who owns all of the redials out there; I guess a mix of those who are unaware and those who are happy to wear a vintage watch with no sign of age to the dial. I don't mean that as a critiism, something for all tastes. Anyway, the search continues.....onwards.
 
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Good luck with the search. It took me two years to find one, and as said above they’re stunning and a great reference.

They eventually come up in original and good condition. The main issue is often that prices are really really high (maybe because often sold by dealers? I don’t know).

Chris has said it all I think, but having gone through this search before (starting as a newbie on this ref), this is my advice:

1. get started on understanding original dials vs. redials (often they’re terrible, but sometimes they’re harder to tell) so you can develop you eye and act “quicker” when you find one

2. get a sense for the minimum condition you want. There is a really large spectrum and amongst original dials, many have patinated heavily or have older water damage

3. define how much pricing flex you have if ever a great one comes up. Because it’s not quite a linear scale. Strong examples shoot up pretty quickly above average ones
 
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Many thanks, your advice is very helpful and much appreciated. It seems to have been the same with every watch in my collection,... months of searching and many, many hours of reading. With the greater majority of dials having been redialed it is going to be a long haul, but either that or settle for second best....not in my nature. It does make you wonder, though, who owns all of the redials out there; I guess a mix of those who are unaware and those who are happy to wear a vintage watch with no sign of age to the dial. I don't mean that as a critiism, something for all tastes. Anyway, the search continues.....onwards.
I always find the weeks/months/years of reading and researching to be as much an important part of the vintage Omega hobby as the actual ownership. And as I mentioned above that is especially so in the late 40s and early 50s period....there are still today interesting and previously unseen dial variations popping up, which is quite amazing when you think about it.
 
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As mentioned dial condition and originality plus movement condition and functional status are paramount. Also there appears to be a higher percentage of gold cap models in good shape than stainless steel. And check the for sale section here regularly. A nice example might pop up for sale every year or so. Many nice photos of nice examples of these models are in this forum so that should be the start of your learning.
 
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As mentioned dial condition and originality plus movement condition and functional status are paramount. Also there appears to be a higher percentage of gold cap models in good shape than stainless steel. And check the for sale section here regularly. A nice example might pop up for sale every year or so. Many nice photos of nice examples of these models are in this forum so that should be the start of your learning.
Picked any up recently @MSNWatch ?
 
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Picked any up recently @MSNWatch ?
Nope but haven't been looking that closely. Also restrained from purchasing outside of the US because of additional import costs.