Advice on first Polerouter

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Aside from watches I am into aviation which is why I have decided to (just for one watch) veer away from the vintage Omegas that I otherwise like to wear. Thus, I am looking to buy my first Polerouter. I must be honest and say that I know very little about these watches aside from their history. Therefore I hope you will give your opinion on this.

To be sold at a local auction house is this gold capped cal. 215. I don't know anything else than that and there are no movement photos. The watch is described as working and there is a 14 day return policy.

I really like the look and think the condition is quite good. My only problem is that there is no logo/globe/anything on the back. Is that correct for some references? It is valued at 500-800 euro + a 20% fee. Is a price within that interval fair (from looking at sold items on eBay it seems so but I can understand that prices have inflated quite a bit).

Thanks!
 
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Hi. I own 2 Polerouters but definitely do not consider myself to be an expert.
Nevertheless, upon close inspection of your pictures, it seems to me that this could be a "redial".

The printing of the letters is just less crispy than on my own 2 and on what I see in this reference gallery:
https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/photo-galleries/referencegallery

The top side of the first U, the upper left corner of the N, etc. etc.
This was a premium watch (brand) in the days, and printing skills were better than what we see here.

The case is also not very sharp anymore.
Furthermore I can't see an UG logo on the plexi.
Not sure the crown is orignal too, but it could be just of the different colour it seems to have.

I will let the experts correct me if I'm wrong.

In the meanwhile, I would search for a better piece.
Edited:
 
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Here’s a picture of one of mine.
The printing looks much crisper here.

 
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Thanks for the input

The letters on my example seem to have feet - was this font used on some references rather than the straight crisp font? (grasping at straws here. I really thought this would be the one).
 
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This looks like a 20363/20365.
These models don’t seem to have “feet”.

Regardless, the print job here is mediocre.

a lot of Polerouters are redials, especially the dark dials...

Expect to pay above 1.500,- for a decent example.
 
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Unfortunately I cannot say I am an expert on these but I also own a Polerouter.

Overall the one you have posted is not attractive to my eyes. The plating is worn/thinned, caseback is torn/worn and the dial printing is smudgy. I would wait and look for a better example.

Here’s a picture of one of mine.
The printing looks much crisper here.


Sorry for the tangent. But damn that a nice looking example. 🥰

Mine says hi.
 
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This looks like a 20363/20365.
These models don’t seem to have “feet”.

Regardless, the print job here is mediocre.

a lot of Polerouters are redials, especially the dark dials...

Expect to pay above 1.500,- for a decent example.

I see - now noticing that mine doesn't say "swiss". Should that be present on this reference? Also, I am not in the market for a 1.500 dollar polerouter and could make due with a redial at the right price. If this ends up costing around 600 euro, would that be considered ok in your opinion? Thanks again.
 
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It seems this model is Ok without “swiss”.

Surely 600,- is Ok as long as you never want to sell it. Because no collector will want to buy it later on.
But “never sell” in our hobby is close to impossible?
 
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It seems this model is Ok without “swiss”.

Surely 600,- is Ok as long as you never want to sell it. Because no collector will want to buy it later on.
But “never sell” in our hobby is close to impossible?

Agreed, but nonetheless with prices going up I maybe could at least be close to getting my money back if I decide to sell down the line (at least to someone who - like me - isn't necessarily a polerouter connoisseur). Auction runs out tonight so I will have to do some thinking today..
 
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Yes, a beginning buyer-on-a-budget might still bite.
Good luck with your decision
 
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The dial is completely original and fine - correct for a 20363-1 (this should be between the lugs on this reference with the serial number). If the globe is not visible on the caseback, it has worn/polished off over time.
 
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The dial is completely original and fine - correct for a 20363-1 (this should be between the lugs on this reference with the serial number). If the globe is not visible on the caseback, it has worn/polished off over time.

Would you care to elaborate? When looking at other pictures of a 20363-1, the font does not seem to have "feet" as is the case with the watch I have posted. Am I missing something? Thanks.
 
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Would you care to elaborate? When looking at other pictures of a 20363-1, the font does not seem to have "feet" as is the case with the watch I have posted. Am I missing something? Thanks.
These Polerouter (and UG in general) dials are more or less identical within the small batches they seem to have been printed in.
The size of the batches seems to vary from reference to reference and we need more time to be more precise about it.
Because of this, the size of the "feet" (Serif) varies from reference to reference, as well as within the references.
With time (maybe a lot of time...) i would not be surprised if we are able to tell if a genuine dial has been swapped out for another genuine dial just by a case serial number (think of all the different Rolex crown styles, as an equivalent).
For instance these two - different levels of Serif, but both are genuine:
https://omegaforums.net/attachments/ecc891ec-cc4d-4b38-9948-9216513a3576-jpeg.699866/
https://omegaforums.net/attachments/capture0055-jpg.638168/
Hope this helps.
 
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These Polerouter (and UG in general) dials are more or less identical within the small batches they seem to have been printed in.
The size of the batches seems to vary from reference to reference and we need more time to be more precise about it.
Because of this, the size of the "feet" (Serif) varies from reference to reference, as well as within the references.
With time (maybe a lot of time...) i would not be surprised if we are able to tell if a genuine dial has been swapped out for another genuine dial just by a case serial number (think of all the different Rolex crown styles, as an equivalent).
For instance these two - different levels of Serif, but both are genuine:
https://omegaforums.net/attachments/ecc891ec-cc4d-4b38-9948-9216513a3576-jpeg.699866/
https://omegaforums.net/attachments/capture0055-jpg.638168/
Hope this helps.

Thanks, sure helps a lot. If the bidding does not go completely off the trail I think I will have a go (as I mentioned there is a 14 day no questions asked return policy). If all goes well I will post pictures here.
 
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The dial being as it may, the watch itself is a mess. Overpolished (notice the worn through cap on the top left lug?) and dirty at best. Sourcing an original crown and crystal will, if you manage to do so at all, set you back €300 minimum. Then there is the matter of servicing the movement which will set you back another €2-300, if you're lucky and no expensive parts need to be replaced. The scratched back does not look promising. To get this particular watch to an acceptible level will cost you €500 at bare minimum. So, frankly, leave it be unless it sells under €250.
 
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The dial being as it may, the watch itself is a mess. Overpolished (notice the worn through cap on the top left lug?) and dirty at best. Sourcing an original crown and crystal will, if you manage to do so at all, set you back €300 minimum. Then there is the matter of servicing the movement which will set you back another €2-300, if you're lucky and no expensive parts need to be replaced. The scratched back does not look promising. To get this particular watch to an acceptible level will cost you €500 at bare minimum. So, frankly, leave it be unless it sells under €250.

You're right. I didn't see that the gold was worn all the way through.

It sold for 604 euro fees included, but in the end I decided to pass. Thanks for all the replies.