Advice: choosing between a vintage, WatchCo or modem SM300

As a Newbie to anything vintage (I have modern IWC / Omega watches, but nothing vintage), I’ve got myself into a bit of a circular loop of indecision on choosing between a vintage, WatchCo or modern SM300 (the modern one I would consider is in the picture below).

I had started out assuming I would just buy a vintage SM300, but the more I look into it the more it seems to me that a) you really really need to know what you are doing to buy a watch like this (as there are lots of nuances, potential issues, fakes etc.); and b) for the budget I would probably spent (c. £5,000 / $6,500) there would probably be issues with the watch (insofar as some of it not being original etc.).

On the other hand, I didn’t really know much about the WatchCo option, and disregarded initially it on the basis of a thought that went along the lines of:

“Well, it’s sort of a fake, and a decent fake fake costs £150, so if you’re going to buy WatchCo how is that better than the £150 decent fake fake, so why pay the difference”.

However, mainly prompted by the fact that I liked the look of the one that just popped up on the Private Watch Sales section here (!), I did some deeper thinking and my thoughts progressed to something more along the lines of:

"A WatchCo is all Omega, and for a full Omega it is actually a bit of a bargain, and it doesn’t have the issue of a Vintage watch in that, probably apart from the movement, its all NOS, and this is reflected in the price, plus I know what I’m getting.”

But then there is obviously the option of a modern SM300 that has a bit of a vintage feel to it (I’d go for the most ‘vintage’ looking one, as below), which is all Omega and built by Omega, so potentially this ‘outranks’ the WatchCo (although I already have a PO, which is another consideration!).

I suspected lots of people might have gone through similar thought process, so just wondered what swayed people either way in the end ………………… I'm particularly interested to know if there are other considerations I should take into account (e.g. I currently have my watches serviced at main dealers, I'm wondered if a specialist is better for vintage watches, or if indeed a main Omega dealer would even touch a WatchCo?).

Thanks for any help you can give.

It is a matter of taste and budget.
Vintage buying takes more dedication to the research and buying process.
Watchco is fairly fool proof, much cheaper and less worrisome for wearing everyday so to speak.
All can be serviced by Omega if you desire

You want the contrived vintage look of the current model seamaster or the real thing? Watchco baby all the way.

For me, very different watches at different price points:

£2500 is a reasonable price for a Watchco - perhaps five hundred more with service and warranty.
£5000 would be the new SM300 and you'll get a proper Omega warranty.
£7500 (?) would be my estimate for a very good vintage SM300.

If you buy a Watchco, there are a few points to look out for - the most obvious is that the bezel triangle is aligned at 12 and not half a minute out. They often have mismatched lume colours and generally need a service.

I can only afford the lowest priced one!😁 I wear mine a lot and have made a few for people, all of whom enjoy them without the fear of damaging their vintage watches.

Cheers, Chris

A "real" SM 300 could probably be found on OF's "for private sale" pages if you are patient. Anything sold on OF pages gets almost automatic scrutiny and the seller is more than likely known and trusted.
Just my thoughts.
Best of luck.

Agree with all of this.. Except you wouldn't want to take a vintage seamaster to omega for service

nice you like the Watchco versions too. I am also budget-minded and think the current value of watchco examples being at $2500 and up I would be careful not to damage it just as much as any other vintage. They are some fine watches that surely will increase in value down the road.

I just went through the same exercise. I ended up going with a Watchco type build, which I bought from a member here on the forum.

For me they key points were:

The watch was recently fully serviced and included a warranty
The dial was relumed to remove the sterile looking LumiNova and add a more vintage feel
The cost was 40% of a comparable vintage
I personally preferred the styling of vintage SM over new.

The one who pays ....decides!!!
The one who wears it..... decides!!!

Dont expect others decide how much to pay and what you should wear

Sorry, thought I should say, this has been my little 'bible' https://www.omegaseamaster300.com/.

If there are other places to look for guidance any suggestions would be welcome.


Thanks Chris, interesting that you made them for people - are there people / firms out there that make them to order (so to speak), as my understanding is that WatchCo is no more, or is it a matter of waiting for one to be advertised (e.g. on here)?

Thanks for your help.

Indeed, but the one who doesn't ask for advice from people that know more about the subject matter deserves the mistakes he makes ……………….. perhaps like buying a house without a survey ………...

Bought in Australia more than 10 years ago, well worn and loved since



I’ve got that bezel misalignment though. The original bezel was damaged (but kept apart) and I bought this one from Cousins UK 7 years ago. Original Omega OEM part, so why ? The watch have some battle scars too, not a safe queen and used as intended : a tool watch

No idea whatsoever of its nowadays value. When I buy it you could find vintage SM300 for the same price. Yet I needed something waterproofed hence my choice for its "modern" reinterpretation. My watch have seen a lot of countries with me, not a military watch as per issued watch, but with military history nonetheless.

No way would I change it for a modern model, you can’t beat that vintage feeling on the wrist imho

Edit : off topic but I’ve just bought an issued CWC diver watch from member @flame and its an interesting option for those who are looking for a legit diver at reasonable price

I own a WatchCo date and I love it. It is such a ‘go to piece’ and I feel I wear it as if it were a modern watch. If I am going for a hike...reach for it. If I’m going on a boat...reach for it. Going to work...reach. As alluded to in above comments it comes down to what you like. With patience and budgeting you could have both some day

Can I ask what causes the "bezel misalignment" - for a while I actually had this on my modern PO, but a full service with Omega sorted it out - curious to know what it is more generally, and in relation to the WatchCo?

Any views on the watch below, I have been following it on eBay (which I have to confess to having a natural aversion to for all but low cost purchases), but I wondered what more informed eyes thought of it?

I really want the vintage SM or the WatchCo, but the risk averse side of me takes over sometimes and draws me towards just buying a 1 or 2 year old modern version from a well known dealer!

I am trying to resist …………...

The bezel has teeth on the underside for every minute and they click into a ball so will move in 1 minute steps. The insert is glued in to the bezel and it appears some were glued incorrectly...

I don't have the knowledge to say much about the one on eBay as I don't collect these but, it's already at £3k so, it could be double that at the end. Like you, I'm nervous about spending that much on eBay but am probably too worried.

Cheers, Chris

That is a handsome watch, only problem is my current day-to-day watch below (not an actual picture of it, as I failed miserably to take a proper photo of it, but I also had it re-strapped as per below and took off the original bright orange band!) - to me it feels like I need to diversify away from the modern 'look'!

I do love my current one though …………...

That said, my current SM wasn't that happy with swimming and the beach, the bezel ground to a halt due to sand, the glass lost a bit of its antireflective coating, and the previous black / orange strap (I am on my second) started to disintegrate at the edges - took a full Omega service to get it back to life again!