A wild one… Longines “Coronation” 18.95M

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Hi all,

I wanted to create this thread to share a recent pickup, and hopefully to learn a little more about this watch, or others like it. At a local auction on Saturday, I won the below, unlike anything I've seen from Longines:
20C1796B-E3AA-43C5-9EC1-81AE31D7C333.jpeg
A092DC19-217E-4ADF-9183-A77262AC6A19.jpeg

So… here’s what I know:

-Platinum case w. what appears to be a factory exhibition caseback (rear bezel identical to front). Caseband channel is set with 26 sapphires, several of which are chipped. No visible hallmarks with both bezels removed, although there isn’t much real-estate available. I’ll be interested to see if there are any identifiers on the inside of the caseband when the movement is eventually removed. I suspect the crown to be non-original.

- The dial/handset are stunning with a subtle two-tone effect. The finish is unlike anything I’ve seen, it almost seems to glow. The dial feet are silver, so I’m guessing it’s a silver base? I believe it is an “indelible dial”, as the text of the signature appears to sit almost proud of the surface. (@DirtyDozen12 , let me know if I’m misusing terminoIogy I’ve learned from you elsewhere in these forums! )

-The star of the show is the movement, of course. The general architecture is that of a 17.95M but we have 5 adjustments, an “Extra Superior” designation, and what appears to be diamond or clear sapphire jewelling (right down to the pallet stones!) and what I’m assuming (but not certain) is rose gold plate on… well, everything. Interestingly, the Archive response that was shared with me by the auction house fails to mention ANY of the bling, and identifies the movement only as a 17.95M, vs. the 18.95M it is stamped with. Googling around, it appears that 18.95M was the “extra superior” version of the 17.95M.

FDBCC9A7-76D9-4C00-91DE-36DF029BC402.jpeg

Now onto the more speculative half of this post - what is this thing?

From period adverts, it seems that at least the Longines Wittnauer company in the U.S. used the coronation of George VI/ Queen Elizabeth as a marketing opportunity, presenting them with three watches - a cocktail watch, a wristwatch, and a pocket watch. All three allegedly had “solid gold” movements with diamond jewels.

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Credit: https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/longines-advert.html?sortBy=relevant

According to the ad, a limited number of “royal” pocket, wrist, and cocktail watches were produced and sold as “replicas”, differing only from the coronation-presented watches in that they did not share the exotic movements. Interestingly, the watches pictured all have the same crown motif visible on my example’s movement.

I was actually able to find a sold example of the wristwatch “royal replica” here: https://wannabuyawatch.com/product/longines-14k-yg-coronation-king-george-vi-curvex-circa-1937/

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This listing makes no mention of any special treatment to the movement, which seems to corroborate the statement in the ad.

After finding this, I thought I had a plausible theory as to the origin of my pocket watch: it was some kind of “showroom” example displayed by a U.S. retailer to help market the more serially produced “royal replicas”. It just made sense, given the sapphires, the delivery date, and critically, the display caseback.

Then I found this article, posted in 2006 by a Japanese user whose username translates to “The Quest Kid”:

http://tanqkozo.blog79.fc2.com/blog-entry-8.

In this post he, or she, shares a heavily worn, but similarly decorated 9L, complete with the coronation label and clear jewelling. Additionally, the author notes that they have seen pictures of a pocket watch with a similar movement in the book “The Clock King" by Takeshi Matsuyama (both translated with google, probably imperfectly). Is that pocket watch this pocket watch? A different one? Is this the book in question?

https://a.co/d/fkkWTXc

It might be worth the gamble, for $21. Regardless, the existence of the 9L movement raises more questions than answers for me. Did Longines serially produce a run of watches with these ultra-decorated movements? I’m looking forward to digging into this deeper, and of course would love to hear if anyone here has any further knowledge/insights.

Thanks for reading!

Juergen

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Edited:
 
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Juergen, it is an absolutely stunning watch. Congratulations on snagging this one. It has to be one of the finest Longines I have ever seen.
 
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Juergen, it is an absolutely stunning watch. Congratulations on snagging this one. It has to be one of the finest Longines I have ever seen.
Thank you Walter! I was quite surprised to come out with the high bid. An unmistakably special piece.
 
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such an amazing piece, and good digging and find on the Japanese counterpart.

keen to see an update on this one!!!!
 
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Very cool.
There is a similar cased watch on chrono 24 at the moment, that might help your research.

FIFC24 :D

long pocket.jpg
 
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Interesting watch. I suspect that there is a subtle error in the Longines extract. In 1937, I believe that Longines-Wittnauer was also the Canadian representative, and that the subject watch was destined originally for Canada.

In 1937, the Coronation of King George VI occurred, and, for the first time, the Coronation took place (he was simultaneously crowned as sovereign) in the British Commonwealth nations, including Canada. So, based on the name and crown inscribed on the movement, I would say that there is little doubt that it was one of a small production of special movements ordered to celebrate the occasion.

Whether they were sold to the public, or given to dignitaries, etc., would be an interesting related question.
Edited:
 
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Interesting watch. I suspect that there is a subtle error in the Longines extract. In 1937, I believe that Longines-Wittnauer was also the Canadian representative, and that the subject watch was destined originally for Canada.

In 1937, the Coronation of King George VI occurred, and, for the first time, the Coronation took place (he was simultaneously crowned as sovereign) in the British Commonwealth nations, including Canada. So, based on the name and crown inscribed on the movement, I would say that there is little doubt that it was one of a small production of special movements ordered to celebrate the occasion.

Whether they were sold to the public, or given to dignitaries, etc., would be an interesting related question.

This makes a lot of sense to me given Canada’s status as a Commonwealth nation. I do have to suspect that at least some of the “royal replicas” were available in the U.S., only based on the fact that the period advertisement appears to have been pulled from an edition of the “Saturday Evening Post”.
 
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This makes a lot of sense to me given Canada’s status as a Commonwealth nation. I do have to suspect that at least some of the “royal replicas” were available in the U.S., only based on the fact that the period advertisement appears to have been pulled from an edition of the “Saturday Evening Post”.

Yes, you are correct, the replicas were clearly available in other countries based on this:

ffgg.png
 
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Really stunning piece. I love everything about that movement, the bridge layout, the use of diamonds instead of rubies, the snail-cam regulator, gilded bridges ... this is what the top of the line looked like from Longines, back then.

Even the "basic" configuration of this movement - with "only" 16 jewels - is quite a looker, in my eyes. These exist in a lot of variations, some of them with sapphires instead of rubies (these were quite popular in Japan in the 1930s), mostly with 18 jewels in "Extra" quality. I have also seen "Extra Superior" ones with 21 jewels that were used in movements for Tiffany's.

All in all, a spectacular find. Congratulations, and thanks a lot for sharing the details!
 
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Btw, is the movement «solid gold» as stated in the advertisment?
I highly doubt it, but I do have some standard 17.95 movements that I could use to compare bridge weight! Maybe a project for the weekend!
 
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Really stunning piece. I love everything about that movement, the bridge layout, the use of diamonds instead of rubies, the snail-cam regulator, gilded bridges ... this is what the top of the line looked like from Longines, back then.

Even the "basic" configuration of this movement - with "only" 16 jewels - is quite a looker, in my eyes. These exist in a lot of variations, some of them with sapphires instead of rubies (these were quite popular in Japan in the 1930s), mostly with 18 jewels in "Extra" quality. I have also seen "Extra Superior" ones with 21 jewels that were used in movements for Tiffany's.

All in all, a spectacular find. Congratulations, and thanks a lot for sharing the details!

Thank you! I’ve heard of the blue sapphire jewelled ones, but never seen a pic. If anyone has one filed away, please share!
 
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Thank you! I’ve heard of the blue sapphire jewelled ones, but never seen a pic. If anyone has one filed away, please share!

Here's a link to the German Uhrforum, were someone a few years ago sold a 17.95M that had been converted to a wristwatch - possibly in the 1930s already. The post has several nice pictures:

https://uhrforum.de/threads/longines-extra-lepine-mit-blauen-saphir-lagersteinen-von-1932.276707/

Also, I'm adding two photos from some old sales on a Japanese website below, both are of a 17.89M with sapphires instead of rubies. The deep blue looks really great with the bright metal bridges!

Longines 16 jewels sapphire.jpg

Longines 16 jewels sapphire 02.jpg
 
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Here's a link to the German Uhrforum, were someone a few years ago sold a 17.95M that had been converted to a wristwatch - possibly in the 1930s already. The post has several nice pictures:

https://uhrforum.de/threads/longines-extra-lepine-mit-blauen-saphir-lagersteinen-von-1932.276707/

Also, I'm adding two photos from some old sales on a Japanese website below, both are of a 17.89M with sapphires instead of rubies. The deep blue looks really great with the bright metal bridges!

Longines 16 jewels sapphire.jpg

Longines 16 jewels sapphire 02.jpg
Never seen this, but the blue is awesome. I’m surprised colored jewelling wasn’t more heavily leveraged for marketing/brand recognition after the advent of synthetic sapphires.
 
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Never seen this, but the blue is awesome. I’m surprised colored jewelling wasn’t more heavily leveraged for marketing/brand recognition after the advent of synthetic sapphires.

I feel the same about this - synthetic rubies were invented a bit earlier than synthetic sapphires, and were somewhat cheaper to make in the beginning... However, I don't know if this is still true, and even if so, the effect can't be that large, or can it? The hardness of the material is the same with ruby or sapphire. And sapphire just looks great together with rhodium-plated bridges.

I'm still researching this, but from what I found so far, it may well have been Ulysse Nardin that started using sapphire for pocket watches, in the mid-1920s. This was very popular in Japan (and copied by Seikosha, who were at that time the biggest importer of Swiss watches into Japan, and the largest manufacturer of pocket watches there).

... which leads us back to your "Coronation" Longines, because this one uses a very similar bridge layout to the UN pocket watches I mentioned above - except that yours has a split barrel bridge, which differentiates it from the 17.89M as well.

Sorry for the detour into sapphires, I didn't mean to distract from your amazing watch. It's easily one of the most impressive pocket watches I have seen on the net so far.