A few neophyte questions

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Hi OF-

I've worn my Casio F158W-1 every day for the past seven years or so (besides some formal occasions in a Seiko 5) and although it's perfect for my agricultural occupation and oddly aesthetically pleasing to me, I'd be lying if I said I hadn't always had my eye on a vintage automatic.

I recently gave myself permission to start looking into the prospect of buying a nice watch for some big forthcoming life events and found myself here. After lurking for a while, I've narrowed my search down to a stainless steel 1960's Seamaster, particularly reference 166.010 with cal 565. This one which was sold here yesterday had pretty much everything I want -- good condition, 5xx movement with date, white sunburst dial, onyx hour markers, beads of rice bracelet. That price of around $1200, is technically feasible for me but while I initially did like the idea of buying from a reputable expert/collector, as I learn more I'm becoming rather fond of the research and hunt and don't want to rush the process which is honestly half the fun with this kind of thing. I just had a few questions for the community for anyone who had the time or inclination to help a beginner.

1. Are there other references I should look at before I solidly commit to this one? I settled on it because of the simplicity of the dial (who needs extra text for "chronometer" or "De Ville"), the date complication with quickset, and the good reputation of the 5xx movements and their swan-neck regulators. However I'm a bit concerned I'm being influenced by newb-bait such as posts like this or this. If any seasoned collectors want to broaden the scope of my search I'm open to it.

1. How feasible is it for an educated non-professional to track down a comparable watch to the one above for <$1,000? What about <$700? I'm willing to be patient and quite excited to learn more about assessing references and condition just for the sake of the knowledge, but if getting a good deal requires being quicker than the professionalized world of vintage resellers who source these listings as full-time jobs... Can I really expect to actually find something below market value? Are there other strategies that can save money, like maybe buying the watch and bracelet separately?

2. Dashes around the words "-Swiss Made-". I've seen various comments here suggesting different things about what these dashes or their absence might mean. I saw one claim that they indicated the black hour markers were painted rather than onyx. This does not appear to be accurate. I've also seen people suggest it has something to do with lume? Is there any particular information I should be gathering from this part of a dial on a 166.010?

3. I'd also like to know if there is a close ladies equivalent to the 166.010. I'm having a lot of trouble finding information or reference numbers for the vintage ladies' Omegas, but it appears that there were plenty of watches made from the same period under Seamaster or Ladymatic which look very similar albeit with different movements. I've found plenty of comments suggesting that the supply of these watches outpaces the demand and that they can be found cheaply, but I'm not really seeing that reflected in listings. If anyone could point me to some reliable study material regarding these ladies' watches that would be amazing. If I do end up springing on one for myself, I'd like to find a matching one for my girlfriend as well.


Thanks for sticking through this longwinded post and for all the help I've already gotten from this forum!
 
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Maybe another thought: be aware that a vintage watch is not that much of a beater watch as your Casio. They are not water tight for example, and heavy shocks may affect them.

On the other questions, i recommend just to keep looking in the For Sale section because its just the thing you like. The watch you are referring to is available in a lot of different variants. You can try to set filters on eBay or Chrono24 to find the good refs for you.

If you find one that you like, post it here and many experts will help you about the authenticity of the watch. Thats better then asking people to guide you to a certain watch.
 
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166.010 and 165.010 (no date) are lovely references.

There is also the predecessor 14779, which I happen to wear today - see below. Mine has a ribbon dial.

These are plentiful references, so you can set the condition bar high with a budget of 1000€. The BoR bracelet bought separately tend to go for 200-250€.

As said above, these watches are not designed for agricultural purposes, so make sure you use them for activities that won’t bring any unpleasant surprises.

A service is usually recommend too, 200-400€ depending on where you are. Adds up to the budget quickly.

The seller you mentioned above for the sold item seems to specialise in these references, so I would keep an eye or reach out. Nangincigarettes has sold quite a few too on this forum.

Good luck with the search!

 
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166.010 and 165.010 (no date) are lovely references.

There is also the predecessor 14779, which I happen to wear today - see below. Mine has a ribbon dial.

These are plentiful references, so you can set the condition bar high with a budget of 1000€. The BoR bracelet bought separately tend to go for 200-250€.

As said above, these watches are not designed for agricultural purposes, so make sure you use them for activities that won’t bring any unpleasant surprises.

A service is usually recommend too, 200-400€ depending on where you are. Adds up to the budget quickly.

The seller you mentioned above for the sold item seems to specialise in these references, so I would keep an eye or reach out. Nangincigarettes has sold quite a few too on this forum.

Good luck with the search!


The no-date is in my personal opinion a beaty. Is that BoR relatable to the watch? Correct timeperiod? The endlinks seem to be not really fitting, thats why im asking.
 
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With some knowledge and patience, you can definitely find one for under $1k. Probably under $700 if you don't want the bracelet. However, if you want a bracelet, you are probably not going to be much below $1200 after a service if you want a nice example. A decent BoR bracelet is $200-$250 and a quality service will typically be in the vicinity of $300 or more.
 
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The no-date is in my personal opinion a beaty. Is that BoR relatable to the watch? Correct timeperiod? The endlinks seem to be not really fitting, thats why im asking.
It is the correct endlinks for this ref (11 IIRC)
 
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It is the correct endlinks for this ref (11 IIRC)
Yes, 11 or 511 will fit the 166.010 Some folks will use 2mm spring bars and feel it makes them fit better in some cases.
 
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Maybe another thought: be aware that a vintage watch is not that much of a beater watch as your Casio. They are not water tight for example, and heavy shocks may affect them.
Oh yeah absolutely, I won't be thinking of this as anything like a beater. The Casio won't be leaving the rotation probably ever— I absolutely abuse the thing far beyond even what I thought a beater could handle. It's been on my wrist for every shower or swim since I got it, covered in roofing tar and drywall mud, dunked in clogged wet-vacs, dragged across concrete in a few bicycle tumbles, etc. I've even had a brand new one on ice for years for the day I expected it to inevitably crap out, but it just refuses to die. I think a big part of the appeal of a vintage watch to me is actually having something I'll need to be more conscious and deliberate about putting on and taking off, and being attuned to its performance, etc.
On the other questions, i recommend just to keep looking in the For Sale section because its just the thing you like. The watch you are referring to is available in a lot of different variants. You can try to set filters on eBay or Chrono24 to find the good refs for you.
I guess what I'm starting to notice is that any listing which includes a reference number tends to be from someone who is savvy and tuned into the watch collector market, particularly on Chrono24. And if I'm already paying market value, I'd probably prefer to minimize risk by just buying it from someone reputable on here. Perhaps Chrono and eBay sellers will be more pliable with haggling? What at I'd obviously really like to find is someone with little knowledge of what they have, but that would require combing through every listing with the words "vintage Omega" in it, which I don't think I'll have the time or willpower to do.
There is also the predecessor 14779, which I happen to wear today - see below. Mine has a ribbon dial.
Beautiful watch. Besides the date feature, do you know what changes were made between the 14779 and 166.010? I think the reason I settled on the 565 cal was because it seemed like the most advanced version of the much-praised 5xx movements before they switched to 10xx which seem to have a comparably worse reputation.
These are plentiful references, so you can set the condition bar high with a budget of 1000€. The BoR bracelet bought separately tend to go for 200-250€.
Is it reasonable to think that sourcing the watch and bracelet separately could save me some cash overall? If I were a seller, I could see it making sense to charge more than the sum of the parts for the work of sourcing and authenticating a correct bracelet. But perhaps that's not how things work.
A service is usually recommend too, 200-400€ depending on where you are. Adds up to the budget quickly.
Does this recommendation hold even when buying from a reputable seller on here who claims it was just recently serviced, like the one I linked above? I know we're all just anonymous posters etc etc but if I can't trust that, can I really trust any info in these listings beyond what I can see in the pics?
 
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Oh yeah absolutely, I won't be thinking of this as anything like a beater. The Casio won't be leaving the rotation probably ever— I absolutely abuse the thing far beyond even what I thought a beater could handle. It's been on my wrist for every shower or swim since I got it, covered in roofing tar and drywall mud, dunked in clogged wet-vacs, dragged across concrete in a few bicycle tumbles, etc. I've even had a brand new one on ice for years for the day I expected it to inevitably crap out, but it just refuses to die. I think a big part of the appeal of a vintage watch to me is actually having something I'll need to be more conscious and deliberate about putting on and taking off, and being attuned to its performance, etc.

I guess what I'm starting to notice is that any listing which includes a reference number tends to be from someone who is savvy and tuned into the watch collector market, particularly on Chrono24. And if I'm already paying market value, I'd probably prefer to minimize risk by just buying it from someone reputable on here. Perhaps Chrono and eBay sellers will be more pliable with haggling? What at I'd obviously really like to find is someone with little knowledge of what they have, but that would require combing through every listing with the words "vintage Omega" in it, which I don't think I'll have the time or willpower to do.

Beautiful watch. Besides the date feature, do you know what changes were made between the 14779 and 166.010? I think the reason I settled on the 565 cal was because it seemed like the most advanced version of the much-praised 5xx movements before they switched to 10xx which seem to have a comparably worse reputation.

Is it reasonable to think that sourcing the watch and bracelet separately could save me some cash overall? If I were a seller, I could see it making sense to charge more than the sum of the parts for the work of sourcing and authenticating a correct bracelet. But perhaps that's not how things work.

Does this recommendation hold even when buying from a reputable seller on here who claims it was just recently serviced, like the one I linked above? I know we're all just anonymous posters etc etc but if I can't trust that, can I really trust any info in these listings beyond what I can see in the pics?

Yeah, i get your point. People can point you in the right direction, and they will.

About the watch and bracelet separate, it could save you costs to do so. I would even put in some research in finding a time periode correct bracelet that fits the watch. There are (here on OF) threads with pictures about bracelet ref's that fit the watches or were delivered with the watch.
 
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I’d suggest three courses:

1. Use the omega forum personal message option (the envelope logo in the top corner) and message @nanjingcigaretes and ask if he has anything suitable for sale.

2. Have a look on Chrono24, but buy through Chrono24 to ensure your protection.

3. Have a look on EBay.

I bought my 166.010 cal 565 on Chrono24, from Japan, but noticed at the same time that the same watch was offered at higher prices by st least two other sellers, so check before you buy and check on this forum before you buy.
 
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I have bought all of my 165.1010/166.010/168.024 examples in Japanese auctions. YJ is teeming with them (the date versions at least).
 
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Serendipity
 
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and th

And this one is nicer than the other
Why do you think he's selling it for €100 less?
 
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Why do you think he's selling it for €100 less?
Good question to ask him. Looks like he does his own servicing, so he might have a couple. It could just be the last one sold at 850 (even though asking was 950) so he listed this at the same.
 
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Someone else needs to buy this already because if I look at the open listing a second longer my wallet is going to achieve nuclear levels of thermogenesis... Seriously though I do hope such a nice example is available in a month or two when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
 
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Someone else needs to buy this already because if I look at the open listing a second longer my wallet is going to achieve nuclear levels of thermogenesis... Seriously though I do hope such a nice example is available in a month or two when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
Honestly? Just do it 😀 If you're attached to that reference, you can't do much better than that one. The fact that you missed out on the 1st one stinks, but now are getting a 2nd chance at a beauty. Doooo iiiiiiit.

 
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Honestly? Just do it 😀 If you're attached to that reference, you can't do much better than that one. The fact that you missed out on the 1st one stinks, but now are getting a 2nd chance at a beauty. Doooo iiiiiiit.

Making a video with sounds like this is a deadly marketing tactic I'll give him that🫠

Agree w @ErichKeane very nice example and serviced too.
Do people generally still recommend taking something like this to a watchmaker after first acquiring it or could I safely assume it won't need service for a few years?