Hi and thanks for a wonderful forum. I've been lurking for a while and enjoying learning. I have a number of mostly modern watches, with the exception of a dress JLC from the 50's and a circa '65 Seamaster with a really lovely patina. I'm now wanting to take the plunge and buy a vintage gold cased Zenith and I found a piece in Italy (I'm in the UK). From the rather unhelpful photo of the movement, it looks to be a 40T. But the dial isn't one I've seen before. Does it look original/right to you? https://wp.me/P70vxr-aA With many thanks, Lucien
Dial could be original - pics are suboptimal. Tell me how this watch appeared on the website of the Oxford College of Arts & Therapies?
Yes, sorry about photo size/quality - not sure I can improve on them. The Oxford College of Arts and Therapies is a web site of mine - it seemed like the fastest way to post the photos. I probably need to sign up to a photo hosting site. Many thanks for your reply.
You can upload them to a post on Omega Forums directly from your computer. Click on 'Add Photos' when you make a new post
Dial looks original to me, but note that is not a Swiss case. I don't see hallmarks other than the 18K marking, so not French or English either.
Thanks both. Being ignorant, I mistakenly thought the shiny triangle shape near the regulator arms/levers might be the “tell” for a T. I’ll go take a look at some web examples of the two and find out what a mobile stud carrier is while I’m at it!
The gold coloured bit that sticks out from the left side of the balance cock is the stud carrier. In this case, it is part of the cock itself so it is not movable and to adjust the beat you have to rotate the hairspring collet. On the 40T, it is a separate item that is sandwiched within the assembly such that it can be rotated independently to adjust the beat.
Had a good look and thank you, I now see the difference. I'm curious as to the function of the stud. I had thought, ignorantly, that it was always moveable. So I will look into why it is part of the cock if it's not doing that job and what the shiny triangle is all about. I'm guessing it must have something to do with linking something anchored beneath it - perhaps something to do with the balance wheel or something applying pressure to the mainspring. I'll dig further. Once again, many thanks for the help. I haven't decided yet on the watch in question. Yesterday I accidentally picked up a gold plated, spotty and grubby Helvetia on the 'bay (H64 movt) for 40 quid. (I can see the static stud!) It may be a dog and perhaps you'll laugh and tell me so. ;-) I'm still keen to acquire a lovely Zenith. There is something very pleasing to me about their proportions/aesthetic (at least in most of the pre-70's pieces I've seen).
I suspect the part you refer to as the shiny triangle is the stud itself. To explain the function of the stud, it anchors one end of the hairspring - the other end is anchored by the collet that fits around the balance staff. Simplistically speaking, you need to change the relative position of the two ends in order for the alignment of the roller Jewel to be changed and the beat error corrected. The stud carrier being part of the cock was the original way of securing the stud and is a cheaper and thinner solution than having an additional, separate part in the cock/regulator assembly. The advantage of the mobile carrier is that it makes the correction of beat error simpler and quicker.