1993 Omega Seamaster Professional 300m 2562.80 396.1502

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Hi, I own a 1993 Omega Seamaster Professional 300m 2562.80 396.1502

I noticed recently the crown no longer screws into the case. This happened quite suddenly the other night, its been fine its entire life and then one day it just seems to have failed. Through a loupe I cannot see any threads on the crown tube at all. Are failures like this common?
 
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I have the same issue, happened very suddenly. This would suggest it is a fairly common issue. Given i don't go crazy diving or swimming I will open it up and release the crown and stem and see what the thread looks like. I have heard of this issue where you get a cross-threading. Worst Case scenario you have to get a new crown tube and Crown.
Best case scenario its a whole lot of gunk and dirt stuck in there and new gaskets and a clean get it back to normal.
 
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I have the same issue, happened very suddenly. This would suggest it is a fairly common issue. Given i don't go crazy diving or swimming I will open it up and release the crown and stem and see what the thread looks like. I have heard of this issue where you get a cross-threading. Worst Case scenario you have to get a new crown tube and Crown.
Best case scenario its a whole lot of gunk and dirt stuck in there and new gaskets and a clean get it back to normal.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah it was threading beautifully and then one day suddenly I just couldnt engage the crown any more. It feels like the thread has gone, so it may need a new tube. It doesnt look dirty but who knows. I was going to take the movement out and give the case a clean, but I cant figure out how to remove it. There seems to be a screw holding the crown release in place.
 
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Not really common, but it happens. You won’t see the threads...they are on the inside of the tube. Will require a new case tube and crown, as they should always be replaced as a set when this happens.

Cheers, Al
 
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Not really common, but it happens. You won’t see the threads...they are on the inside of the tube. Will require a new case tube and crown, as they should always be replaced as a set when this happens.

Cheers, Al
That explains it as I definitely cannot see any threading. Well as this is a full set and I got it pretty cheap I guess it is due for a service. I opened the case back and there are watch maker marks going back every few years until 1995. Whoever owned this before me certainly looked after it.
 
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Archer - were all crown tubes from omega soldered? and were they always replaced at a service? that would be the difference between a possible DIY poject needing just a new crown tube and crown vs sending it off for the change to be made.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/gotofiles/8646 shows how but I wouldn't dare.

That link just takes me to a page that lists a bunch of document, so I have no idea what specific document you are referring to. If you can tell me the name of it, I'll take a look.

Omega uses various methods of holding case tubes in. Some are soldered, some are press fitted in a through hole, some are press fitted into a blind hole, and some are threaded into the case. Each style requires a different method of removal and replacement and that will be determined by the case number.

Omega (and most brands) will replace case tubes at service, as well as the crown. So when you see people talking about "original: crowns on watches that have been back to the service center at any time in their lives, they are not really original (meaning the one that came on the watch when new). These are wear parts that are changed, so not just threaded tubes that get cross threaded, but the OD of the tube can wear and since this is where the seal rides, it will compromise water resistance.

Cheers, Al
 
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https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/gotofiles/8646

Again, that link just takes me to the main page, but I am familiar with the document, and the procedure. I've used the jigs while in training at Omega. I finished the assigned work early on the last day, and the other watchmakers were still busy working, so the instructor asked me what I'd like to do - I told him I wanted to get a feel for drilling out and tapping a case for a new tube using the fixtures, so they took me to the shop, gave me the procedure and a case, and I went to work...



Ready for drilling the old tube out:



In the process of tapping the hole for a new tube:


This is most definitely not a DIY task. The case has to be very accurately located in all directions, and can't move during the process. There are two progressive taps used - trying to do it with just one would result in snapped off taps, so it has to be done in stages. The kit is VERY expensive, so I've never been able to justify the purchase.

I would assume that all smp300 quartz would be the same out of the factory and then retrofitted at a later date.

That assumption isn't correct. Omega changed the style of case tube within models as they made other changes to the cases. They are not all the same for a given model, which is why you need the specific case number, and even then that might not be enough.

haven't got the back off mine of late, do you know the case number for a 2562.80?

There were two cases used for the 25628000. The only way to know for sure what version you have is to open the watch up and look inside the case back. Even then you may have to look at the tube from inside the case to see what style it has.

Case 1961502 came with one of two tubes - 090ST4201 that is a press fitted tube, or 090ST4203 that is the threaded version.

The later case 1961522 used either case tube 090ST1231 that is a press fitted tube, or again 090ST4203 that is threaded.

This isn't as straightforward as you might think.

So this is what the inside of the case tube should look like:



And this is what the threads on a stripped tube look like:



This process isn't a quick job. Even with a screwed in tube, the case has to be heated to soften the Loctite that is used to hold the case tube firmly in the case. So after you remove the movement from the case, you the remove the bezel:





Because the heat is going to affect the crystal gasket, you remove the crystal next:





The area at the case tube is heated:



Omega has a tool for screwing in and unscrewing threaded case tubes - basically a custom size Allen wrench that fits into the ID of the tube:





New tube:





Loctite applied to threads:



Case is cleaned, remnants of old Loctite removed from the threads, then the new tube is installed - with titanium washer under it:



Then of course the case has to be put back together using a new crystal gasket, proper press, etc.

I tend not to use the Omega tool for the pressed in case tubes, since more torque is required for those. I use what amounts to a small "easy out" tool that fits inside the ID of the tube to turn it out. However the pressed in tubes will sometimes shear off even when the case is heated...


In these instances, I have a contact at Omega that I send these to, and he can replace the tube for me for a small fee. Again for the very few times this happens, it's not worth buying the expensive kit to drill the tubes out for me.

Cheers, Al
 
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Archer you really know how to be the fun police. but seriously that information is worth its weight in gold.
how does one know what type of tube it is once you have the case ref. do they look different?
Are you still a watchmaker that can undertake this repair for less than a kings ransom?
 
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Interestingly the same thing just happened to my 2531.80. Worked great and then the other day won’t seat down anymore. I’m pretty bummed to because I have a strap being made by Combat Straps and Michael Knapp Leather I won’t get to wear I it until my watch gets repaired.
 
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Thanks Archer (again). It just goes to show the money spent on a service often is worth it simply just in terms of the labour involved. It certainly isnt a DIY job thats one thing for sure.

My crown was rock solid for a long time and then I honestly think when I screwed it in the other day I went one turn too many and it failed. Possibly it was already about to fail, who knows, but is from 1993 so its likely. I will send it in for an omega service.
 
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I have the same issue, happened very suddenly. This would suggest it is a fairly common issue. Given i don't go crazy diving or swimming I will open it up and release the crown and stem and see what the thread looks like. I have heard of this issue where you get a cross-threading. Worst Case scenario you have to get a new crown tube and Crown.
Best case scenario its a whole lot of gunk and dirt stuck in there and new gaskets and a clean get it back to normal.
Interesting. Thanks!
 
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Well, can I ask one thing. I know DIY is out of the question, but I would like to take the crown out and remove the movement and clean the case. Is this something I can try? I have done this on many watches in the past, however this one seems a bit fiddly.
 
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Waffle that is certainly something that is at the start of the novice watch enthusiast handbook. as long as you have the correct caseback removal tool, mini screwdrivers and I like to use the springbar tool you will be able to get the case back off, the dust cover off. There will be a screw or push release to get the crown and stem out. then it's a simple task to see if the movement is held in by a sliding ring, screws or movement holder.

One thing to be wary of is once you open it up dust could get in, it will no longer be watertight (although with a crown that won't screw-down I suspect that is low on your concern list). don't bodge it off as its a nice watch and not worth scratching up out of curiosity. I would presume you have serviced the watch in the past but that gasket will be old and could be hard, brittle or stretch when you open the back so something else to be aware of.
 
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Well, I carefully removed the crown/movement. I cleaned the case and crown and the crown was threading again! I put the watch back together and the crown is slipping again.
 
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Waffle when you took the crown out did you get a look at inside the tube and the crown? Archer has pictures above to show a good and bad tube. Sounds like you're only just slipping. If funds are tight it could be a £50 crown could tide you over, however as Archer says the tube and crown should both be swapped at the same
 
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I ran a small pin up and down the inside of the tube and I could barely feel any threading. If I could pop the tube out I would fix it myself, sadly I will have to set it aside for a few years. Its not worth getting serviced at this stage