1969 Seamaster Deville

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I recently inherited an Omega Seamaster Deville. I took it to a local watchmaker for it to be opened to gain some information. The only thing I can tell for sure is from the serial number starting in 28, telling me it was made in 1969. But I’m having a difficult time finding out any other information about it, from all the images I’ve seen this one looks different. I was wondering if anyone could help identify it for me.

 
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SMDV made for the US market. What specifically did you want to know?
 
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SMDV made for the US market. What specifically did you want to know?
The PIC doesn’t seem to match with any database, I wanted to know how it came factory. As well as the markings (seconds markings) between the hour markings. This watch has many more than the average SMDV I have seen.
 
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The PIC doesn’t seem to match with any database, I wanted to know how it came factory. As well as the markings (seconds markings) between the hour markings. This watch has many more than the average SMDV I have seen.
I don't know what a PIC is, but I don't know of any databases that have comprehensive photos of the huge number of dial variations that Omega supplied. Far from it. Each reference often came with a large variety of dial/hand variations. And in general, there are many dial variants that aren't easy to find on the internet. Also, Omega does not generally provide information about what particular dial (or dials) was provided for a particular example. With experience, you can use general knowledge of typography and style to infer if a dial is authentic.

So to be specific, your concern is that the dial has been repainted, or replaced?
 
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I don't know what a PIC is, but I don't know of any databases that have comprehensive photos of the huge number of dial variations that Omega supplied. Far from it. Each reference often came with a large variety of dial/hand variations. And in general, there are many dial variants that aren't easy to find on the internet. Also, Omega does not generally provide information about what particular dial (or dials) was provided for a particular example. With experience, you can use general knowledge of typography and style to infer if a dial is authentic.

So to be specific, your concern is that the dial has been repainted, or replaced?
PIC (product identity code) or reference number. I am not as familiar with Omega as other brands but all reference codes are stamped on the inside case back.

For me personally I like to know everything there is to know about what I own. I’m trying to do my research and pinpoint exactly what I have, the quality, rarity, movement type quality, value, etc.

The watchmaker said this was, in his words “a virgin watch” and that it was pristine inside as if it was the first time it had ever been opened. To me that implies nothing has been repainted or replaced. But I would appreciate any and all opinions
 
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My understanding is that Norman Morris was the sole US importer/distributor for Omega going back to the 1930's. Omega sent the movements to US which were cased and regulated in US, in order to reduce import duties on precious metal. Also cal 563 is a movement with 17 jewels (compared to cal 565 which has 24 jewels) and these movements were sent to US market rather than 24 jewel versions, also to reduce import tax. The Norman Morris watches typically have a different caseback marking KMxxxx, as well as 6 digit number- Im not sure which is considered ref number vs case number. I have similar SMDV with such markings.
I also think Norman Morris came up with the DeVille name- but not sure about that. The American market watches are often a bit funkier and less sedate and movements are often stamped with OXG.
Anyway thats my broad overview understanding as result of researching my watch, pictured. Mine is 14K Gold Filled- marked on side of caseback. Others may wish to correct anything
 
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As previously noted yours is an American market watch with the reference number KM6610.

If this is “a virgin watch” it desperately needs a service if you intend to wear it.
 
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PIC (product identity code) or reference number. I am not as familiar with Omega as other brands but all reference codes are stamped on the inside case back.

For me personally I like to know everything there is to know about what I own. I’m trying to do my research and pinpoint exactly what I have, the quality, rarity, movement type quality, value, etc.

The watchmaker said this was, in his words “a virgin watch” and that it was pristine inside as if it was the first time it had ever been opened. To me that implies nothing has been repainted or replaced. But I would appreciate any and all opinions
I think you know what there is to know, but by all means do your research. Personally, I have no concerns about the dial.

Some collectors don't value the US-market watches quite as much as all-Swiss models with regular Omega reference numbers, but the quality is pretty similar, except for the low-jewel movements, which can affect the robustness of the auto-winding mechanism. The dial isn't the most common variant, but there are many different variations, and by no means would I call it a rare watch.

Regarding the watch being pristine. I have the impression that there may be a color mismatch between the gold-colored rotor and copper-colored movement. And some people might suggest that the "O" on the rotor indicates a service part, although I honestly don't know if that's always the case. I've seen some things that make me question that conventional wisdom.
 
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As previously noted yours is an American market watch with the reference number KM6610.

If this is “a virgin watch” it desperately needs a service if you intend to wear it.
I was also told it needed servicing, however the cost for that was quoted at $650 which I thought was high. For now I will wait until I find out if that is reasonable or not for this type of watch.
 
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I think you know what there is to know, but by all means do your research. Personally, I have no concerns about the dial.

Some collectors don't value the US-market watches quite as much as all-Swiss models with regular Omega reference numbers, but the quality is pretty similar, except for the low-jewel movements, which can affect the robustness of the auto-winding mechanism. The dial isn't the most common variant, but there are many different variations, and by no means would I call it a rare watch.

Regarding the watch being pristine. I have the impression that there may be a color mismatch between the gold-colored rotor and copper-colored movement. And some people might suggest that the "O" on the rotor indicates a service part, although I honestly don't know if that's always the case. I've seen some things that make me question that conventional wisdom.
Thank you for your input, exactly why I asked here. I have read so many differing opinions and information it has become pretty muddied.

I didn’t believe this was a rare piece all things considered, I was just having a difficult time with the year and dial not being easy to find other references of.

The evaluation given was anywhere from $1500-$2000 from the shop which told me it was good but nothing extremely special. All with a grain of salt.
 
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I was also told it needed servicing, however the cost for that was quoted at $650 which I thought was high. For now I will wait until I find out if that is reasonable or not for this type of watch.
It depends on the watchmaker.
If they have an Omega certification and access to Omega Parts Account they will charge close to standard Omega rates.

I would personally find another watchmaker.
One who doesn't handle a nice clean movement with bare fingers that will leave residue (no matter how slight) that will eventually etch a fingerprint pattern into the surfaces he touched.
 
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Thank you for your input, exactly why I asked here. I have read so many differing opinions and information it has become pretty muddied.

I didn’t believe this was a rare piece all things considered, I was just having a difficult time with the year and dial not being easy to find other references of.

The evaluation given was anywhere from $1500-$2000 from the shop which told me it was good but nothing extremely special. All with a grain of salt.
I assume the case is solid 14k? That's a major determinant of the value given the high price of gold currently. Anyway, assuming solid 14k, that valuation is probably on the high side realistically in terms of what you could actually sell it for, but not crazy if you wanted an insurance valuation.
 
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Fully legit. Here’s another one with those minute ticks:

 
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I assume the case is solid 14k? That's a major determinant of the value given the high price of gold currently. Anyway, assuming solid 14k, that valuation is probably on the high side realistically in terms of what you could actually sell it for, but not crazy if you wanted an insurance valuation.
Correct, I didn’t include a photo of the gold marking but it is 14k.