1966 Seamaster - Original crown and 3,6,9,12 dial?

Hello, first post snd first vintage Omega. I've long wanted a 60s Seamaster as the simple style appealed to me, and I bought this when it appeared in my local jeweller on a whim. Possibly not the wisest thing to do!
I've since done all the reading (here mainly) I should have done before, and despite overpaying a little, I don't think I've done too badly. I was assured it had been serviced in January of this year.
It got off to a bad start; on the second day of ownership I noticed the second hand stuttering, so took it back, and didn't see the watch again for 3 months. 🙁
Now I have it back, and apparently the watch has had a full service again. Comments welcome!

I can't find many other 166.002 with this dial. Are they rare?

And is the crown original?

Thank you for any input.

It looks nice, but I haven’t had my coffee and can’t vouch for it. Stay tuned for replies.

3 months is a long time though, it makes me wonder if the jeweller sent it out for service instead of having a watchmaker in-house. Did they say? Not a bad thing either way, but good to know who and where is servicing your watch.

This leads to questions, for my learning:

1) Shouldn’t a freshly serviced watch have the regulator dead-centre?

2) would a pro know how to put the caseback back on so the seamonster is aligned properly? Perhaps this was OP taking a peek, or a not so diligent watchmaker

Just my two cents:

Most 166.002 show this crown, I guess this is the original one:



Yours seems to be the correct replacment crown after the original one wasn't available any more...


Many times pointed out here by long time members: When produced, 60ies Omegas had yellow gaskets like yours.
If your watch had properly been serviced the gasket had been most likely replaced by an contemporary (black) one...

Yes, the watch was definitely sent elsewhere by the shop I bought it from. I didn't ask where.

I'm not convinced about the service either. There's the gasket, as mentioned, which looks tatty. Also the original service, Jan 19, which resulted in the second hand stutter, or at least didn't fix it. Is that likely?

In my searching, I haven't uncovered another picture of the 166.002 with this type of dial. Are they that rare?

I gather that the gold plated versions aren't as sought after by the cognoscenti, but I like it!

You are right, the arabic numbers dials are rather rare

If you like the gold plated ones, great, only your taste matters, you don't have to think about what others like

No use speculating about what happened in which service unless you are have the possibility / the will to give it back for some kind of service again...

How accurate is the watch running?

Compare it with an objective (internet) timing source a few days and let us know what you found out...

It looks a good watch, obviously depending on the price paid. I am sure I read somewhere that the arabic number dials were mainly for the British market so, I'd imagine they are rare as well.

The usual issue with the stutter is the adjustment and damage of the tension spring which sits on the back of the central seconds pinion - the hand is fitted to the front of that. The pinion and spring are circled here:

This is a detail of a pinion and spring. The green arrow shows where the hand is fitted. If you fit this hand by supporting the back of the spring, which is contacting the other end from the green arrow, then you dent the spring - you can see a bit of a dent here close to the red arrow. This causes the stutter which can also be due to the spring not pressing hard enough on the pinion. You bend the spring to do this but, if you put too much pressure there then you lose a lot of amplitude so, it's a balancing game.


Anyway, you got a fresh service so that's not bad but I'd agree with @Passover .


I usually put the regulator in the centre and only use it for the last 5-10 second rate adjustment which only moves it a fraction. This is what I was taught so, I wouldn't leave it that far over there either. Regarding the case back, these screw on backs just go where they go although the very new designs will fit at a defined angle. If they are tight then the hippocampus will be at whatever angle it is. Different with a snap back and I suppose that's what you're thinking of, Dave.

Check the accuracy and power reserve as advised and that will give you an idea if all is well.

Cheers, Chris

Thanks again for the replies.
That's really useful @ChrisN thanks.

I will run some checks on accuracy and power reserve, for my own interest.

Can the gaskets be had so I can change it myself?

Early days yet, but it's losing around 28-30 seconds a day. Is that acceptable for a freshly serviced watch?
Pardon my ignorance.

Should I stick with genuine Omega for the gasket? I found them at Cousins.

Regarding the case back; when I took it off for a look, it was barely finger tight. I nipped it up a little tighter on refitting.

Losing 28 seconds every day would just imply its needs a regulation so, not a major issue. If it swings wildly from one day to the next, then it would need more investigation.

Test the power reserve by giving the crown sixty winds and leave the watch dial up - don't wear it - and see how long it runs. Should be 38 hours minimum. If it passed that, you could get it regulated as that's not a major job. This doesn't confirm a lot about the quality of the work but, if it fails this, then the work is suspect.

The best place to do that is where you bought it but, you've probably voided the guarantee by opening it. I could tell you how to regulate it but, one slip and you're in for a major expense! Find a local watchmaker and they can also review the work when regulating.

That yellow gasket will probably come off in pieces so, you need to remove the movement or all those pieces will end up inside it. Again, whoever regulates it could do that.

Good luck, Chris

Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
Interesting stuff.

Well, it ran for 40 hours, so I'm assuming that means all's well in that regard, and just some regulation required.