1964 Cotton Bowl Classic Omega

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I just received this one from an eBay auction (I used my brilliant auction strategy of bidding more than anyone else think it is worth). I collect Longhorn bowl game watches, and this will be, along with my 1971 Cotton Bowl Tudor, one of my best.

This is my first Omega, and I have a few questions, being new to vintage Omega (I have vintage Rolex, Elgin, and Hamilton). I believe the model is a LU6304 (model # is not on case back, as a player’s name is engraved there). It’s 10k gold filled bezel with SS case back. We’re these award watches made in Suisse or US (I saw a forum reference to US made cases). If US, were the 550 movements assembled to case in the US, too? Does that affect the vintage care any?

I like to get the old bowl game watches working (this one works, although I have not checked accuracy) and presentable, and to wear them a few times per year. The seller had this “serviced”, but judging by the receipt, it was just a nominal case opening and cleaning, perhaps (not sure) oil and calibration. I have no reason to think the jeweler that did it was experienced with vintage Omega. The case back shows wear around the wrench notches- is that worrisome for any reason other than moisture encroachment (I have no plan to wear in the rain)?

The dial- most of the value, to me, is in the dial, as that shows the bowl game it is from. The seller described the marks as “patina”. Do y’all agree that is all it is, or could it be some kind of corrosion that must be halted?

I only had an English unit scale on hand, but estimate the lug width to be 18mm. Does that seem right?

I guess for a band, I’ll either try to source the JB Champion bracelet the watch was awarded with, or just get a nice matte chocolate alligator strap. Any suggestions on sourcing either?

Thanks. Any and all advice is appreciated!
 
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I envy you. That was UT's first National Championship season. I'been looking for one for a while. Where do you live? Members can recommend watchmaker.
 
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I live in Arlington. To me, this and the 1970 Cotton Bowl Rolex are the two most desired, and the prices on the 1970 are going up faster than my watch budget!

The 1964 might be rarer- smaller team rosters back then. I’m still watching for other UT bowl watches - eBay, Goodwill.com (not the secret it used to be), Heritage Auctions. I’ll pm you if I see another.

Edited- I have seen a couple in the wild...I was a guest in the Letterman’s T Room under the stadium and David MacWilliams and pals had a couple.
 
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Here are another couple of pics. Mr. Galiga was a reserve center on the Texas team.

A couple of years ago, I got excited about one on eBay that was awarded to a Navy player, and it wasn’t running and missed a crown. I was upset because the seller switched from an auction to a auction/make offer and somebody (who probably contacted him in advance) swooped in. When this one went on auction, I contacted the seller and asked him to let me know if he decided to change formats, as I intended to make a serious bid.
 
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I remember that one. I thought about it but the seller was asking more than I wanted to pay for a Navy player.
 
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Honestly, I assumed this one, with an Italian surname, was for a Midshipman, and I checked the program (of course, of course I have a program for the 1964 CB) and saw he was a Longhorn from Hillsboro.
 
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Here is the program page about the watch. Note that the dial batons are pointed and the case has more styled lugs in the picture. Every photo of one of these I have seen shows blunt batons and simple lugs. However, this is the bracelet i’m curious about.
Edited:
 
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This pic is from an old eBay auction that claims it has the original bracelet. Anybody recognize it? Thanks
 
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I used my brilliant auction strategy of bidding more than anyone else think it is worth.

Mon semblable, — mon frère!

This, along with "It practically pays for itself — hell, I'd be losing money not to buy it!" is the cornerstone of my wealth-management philosophy. Also, chocolate alligator sounds absolutely delicious.
 
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I have a 6304... US Collection. 11/16" You can get US-made 11/16" bracelets on eBay. Be prepared to spend a lot.

Tom
Edited:
 
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Mon semblable, — mon frère!

This, along with "It practically pays for itself — hell, I'd be losing money not to buy it!" is the cornerstone of my wealth-management philosophy. Also, chocolate alligator sounds absolutely delicious.

I have a budget to work with. My full auction strategy is:

1. Determine the most I am willing to pay (or, “what is the amount of money that it could sell for that I won’t feel bad about missing it”).
2. Snipe (make bid in auction’s last few seconds).

I ended up paying $810, a lot for a Seamaster LU6304 in this condition, but...it’s a 1964 Cotton Bowl watch. There may have been (at most) 150 issued, and half went to Navy. This was a seven day auction. With 14 hours to go, the winning bid was $210. With 10 minutes to go, the winning bid was $355. My top bid was $837 and if it sold for $840...I would have been fine and figured I would wait for the next one.

The ones that drive me crazy are the ones where the seller doesn’t list it in a way to be found by one of my regular searches. I missed out on a 1975 Bluebonnet Bowl Omega automatic (Texas/Colorado game) because the seller never mentioned “bowl” (it’s on the dial). It was a $300 “but it now”, and I still get peeved thinking about it. My Longhorn bowl watch collection has so many crappy quartz watches, I crave Omegas to class the joint up.
 
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I have a budget to work with. My full auction strategy is:

1. Determine the most I am willing to pay (or, “what is the amount of money that it could sell for that I won’t feel bad about missing it”).
2. Snipe (make bid in auction’s last few seconds).

I ended up paying $810, a lot for a Seamaster LU6304 in this condition, but...it’s a 1964 Cotton Bowl watch. There may have been (at most) 150 issued, and half went to Navy. This was a seven day auction. With 14 hours to go, the winning bid was $210. With 10 minutes to go, the winning bid was $355. My top bid was $837 and if it sold for $840...I would have been fine and figured I would wait for the next one.

The ones that drive me crazy are the ones where the seller doesn’t list it in a way to be found by one of my regular searches. I missed out on a 1975 Bluebonnet Bowl Omega automatic (Texas/Colorado game) because the seller never mentioned “bowl” (it’s on the dial). It was a $300 “but it now”, and I still get peeved thinking about it. My Longhorn bowl watch collection has so many crappy quartz watches, I crave Omegas to class the joint up.
 
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Here is mine from ‘63. It’s a 6296 running a 470. My late father was an LSU defensive end.
 
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I just received this one from an eBay auction (I used my brilliant auction strategy of bidding more than anyone else think it is worth). I collect Longhorn bowl game watches, and this will be, along with my 1971 Cotton Bowl Tudor, one of my best.

This is my first Omega, and I have a few questions, being new to vintage Omega (I have vintage Rolex, Elgin, and Hamilton). I believe the model is a LU6304 (model # is not on case back, as a player’s name is engraved there). It’s 10k gold filled bezel with SS case back. We’re these award watches made in Suisse or US (I saw a forum reference to US made cases). If US, were the 550 movements assembled to case in the US, too? Does that affect the vintage care any?

I like to get the old bowl game watches working (this one works, although I have not checked accuracy) and presentable, and to wear them a few times per year. The seller had this “serviced”, but judging by the receipt, it was just a nominal case opening and cleaning, perhaps (not sure) oil and calibration. I have no reason to think the jeweler that did it was experienced with vintage Omega. The case back shows wear around the wrench notches- is that worrisome for any reason other than moisture encroachment (I have no plan to wear in the rain)?

The dial- most of the value, to me, is in the dial, as that shows the bowl game it is from. The seller described the marks as “patina”. Do y’all agree that is all it is, or could it be some kind of corrosion that must be halted?

I only had an English unit scale on hand, but estimate the lug width to be 18mm. Does that seem right?

I guess for a band, I’ll either try to source the JB Champion bracelet the watch was awarded with, or just get a nice matte chocolate alligator strap. Any suggestions on sourcing either?

Thanks. Any and all advice is appreciated!

Glad to see you got another one, and hope you’re enjoying the Tudor. And did you ever figure out who is Ed Fleming?
Edited:
 
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Yes, I am! It was a great Christmas!

I have three of the UT NC bowl watches now. The 1964 CB omega, the 1971 CB Tudor and the 2006 Rose Bowl Endura (which is a particularly crappy quartz watch).
 
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Yes, I am! It was a great Christmas!

That’s great! Did you ever find out anything about Ed Fleming?
 
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That’s great! Did you ever find out anything about Ed Fleming?

There was a Fleming on the Texas team, a reserve LB, but his name wasn’t “Ed”. I did some more googling, and I think “Ed Fleming” is “Edmund Fleming”, the husband of Marge Fleming, who was the long time accountant of the UT AD. (Thank God they hadn’t started yet with the girls’ watches for the Cotton Bowl!)
 
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There was a Fleming on the Texas team, a reserve LB, but his name wasn’t “Ed”. I did some more googling, and I think “Ed Fleming” is “Edmund Fleming”, the husband of Marge Fleming, who was the long time accountant of the UT AD. (Thank God they hadn’t started yet with the girls’ watches for the Cotton Bowl!)

Wow nice detective work.
 
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Yes, I am! It was a great Christmas!

I have three of the UT NC bowl watches now. The 1964 CB omega, the 1971 CB Tudor and the 2006 Rose Bowl Endura (which is a particularly crappy quartz watch).
You answered my question about the Rose Bowl watch you showed me.
 
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So, what band or bracelet? These yellow gold Omegas, cleaned up, look so classy in alligator straps. It loses a little urbanity with a period correct yellow gold (filled or plated) expansion bracelet, but the right one (with curved ends, of course) can make the 34mm watch “wear a little larger”, as well as provide a retro touch. (I have looked at a lot of you guys’ photos in the archives!)

My decision- save up and get one of each. I’ll just be patient on the bracelet- I have yet to see the one from the ad on eBay, but I bet a similar faceted link expansion bracelet from Champion or Kreisler will do.