1960s Black Dial Constellation Identification

am8719 · Mar 25, 2025

Hi All,

Was hoping to get some help from the community. I've been trying to get a solid ID on my watch, but have come up short. I know that these sometimes got redialed or painted, but I don't really have reason to believe this one was. As far as I know, my father bought this watch back in the 60s/70s and was the only owner. I had it cleaned up and restored as it was in pretty rough shape when I got my hands on it. But the peope who worked on it didn't alter any of the aesthetics.

Any info, opinions, questions, comments are greatly appreciated!

Dan S · Mar 25, 2025

Have you read the reference number on the inside of the case-back? That is the identification that you need.

gatorcpa · Mar 25, 2025

Should be Ref. 168.005 based on 24M serial number. If anything else on caseback, it’s likely a frankenwatch.

SOG53 · Mar 25, 2025

Looks nice. Can you share what was done for the restoration?

am8719 · Mar 25, 2025

gatorcpa
Should be Ref. 168.005 based on 24M serial number. If anything else on caseback, it’s likely a frankenwatch.

Thank you. I didn't even realize there were more markings on the inside of the back case. I will have to check that out!

am8719 · Mar 25, 2025

SOG53
Looks nice. Can you share what was done for the restoration?

It was a handful of years ago, but from what I remember they mostly opened it up to get a marker or two reset and to do some general work to make sure it was in good running condition. For the most part it was in pretty good condition, though it was missing the original strap.

am8719 · Mar 26, 2025

gatorcpa
Should be Ref. 168.005 based on 24M serial number. If anything else on caseback, it’s likely a frankenwatch.

I just removed the back. It is a 168.005!

The dial still doesn’t seem to exactly match anything when I google that number. Closest black dial I’ve found is one with the crosshair on it. It also doesn’t have the T after Swiss made at the bottom? Any ideas, or is it likely that this dial was just painted at some point?

Dan S · Mar 26, 2025

Each reference has many different dial variations, and you won't always find an exact match online. More important is a careful analysis of fonts, alignment, etc.

Peemacgee · Mar 27, 2025

A am8719
I just removed the back. It is a 168.005!

The dial still doesn’t seem to exactly match anything when I google that number. Closest black dial I’ve found is one with the crosshair on it. It also doesn’t have the T after Swiss made at the bottom? Any ideas, or is it likely that this dial was just painted at some point?

Your watch has a T after Swiss made because the indices have a lume strip along their length and the hands also have lume.

Black dials were special order items - this doesn’t mean they are bespoke, just that they will differ slightly depending on the dial manufacturer used at the time.

Due to their popularity, black dial Constellations are frequently manufactured by repainting original dials.

You have what looks like a very nice original black dome dial dogleg Constellation - congratulations.

1960s Black Dial Constellation Identification

am8719

Dan S

gatorcpa

SOG53

am8719

am8719

am8719

Dan S

Peemacgee

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