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  1. Red Jan 7, 2015

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    I have my father's old Omega, apparently a US-market-only version of the 354 movement that was shipped "unadjusted" to the US market, in contrast to the more expensive chronometer certified versions with the same movement, like the Seamaster and Constellation. It had been water damaged and the dial replaced some time ago by some clever jeweler who didn't quite get it right. The replacement dial looks perfectly good except, the cardinal numbers are just luminous markers, and the original hands aren't luminous at all, making it an odd combination.

    Since the watch has an 18K gold case and is keeping time very nicely, I was wondering where and how to get a "correct" replacement dial face for it? Omega doesn't show any picture of the watch, but at least they acknowledge its existence. A few years ago, they said they had never heard of it. Or the 354 movement. (sigh)

    --Red
     
  2. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jan 7, 2015

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    You'll be hard pressed finding an exact replacement dial, you have any pics of the watch?
     
  3. Red Jan 15, 2015

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    Pics, yes, but of course this is after the not-quite-right face was put on it so they are kind of meaningless. JPG attached (I hope) of the front. If the cardinal numbers were simply gold metal numbers (12/3/6/9) and the rest of the dial was not right, it would at least be better, more logical, than having luminous markers without (duh?) any lume on the hands. And I have no real urge to replace the hands with wrong hands, to match the wrong dial.

    Although a source for "not crap, not Hermes either" 17mm lizard skin bands would help too.<G> This one is a nice "Vera Pelle" but the skin unbonded from the base leather pretty quickly, and the plating rubbed off the buckle in record time.
     
    Omega front.jpg
  4. Mothra Jan 16, 2015

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    Can't help on the dial, but Hirsch and Hadley-roma both do decent lizard straps.
     
  5. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 16, 2015

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    Dial looks like a proper fit for the case. While it may not be original, it doesn't look refinished either. Has "Swiss" at the bottom, which would be correct for the era. Most rediallers miss this.

    A proper Omega crystal with a gold trim ring might make the package look better, but since this is a US made case, it might not be easy to find.

    You said you didn't want to replace the hands. However, since the dial was already replaced, it would certainly be easier to find correct hands than to find another replacement dial that probably wouldn't be the same as the one that came with the case anyway.
    gatorcpa

    PS - Speidel Lizard or Sport Calf watchbands are very nice. These can be found on eBay for as low as $15. Good value for the money.
     
  6. Red Jan 16, 2015

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    Thanks, guys. I don't know if the watch ever had a gold trim ring on the (original) crystal, and aside from the incongruity, agree that the dial looks well done whatever it is. I'll try those band sources over the weekend.

    Gator, when you mention a US-made case, did Omega ship the movements "raw" to the US?? To let what, an Omega-US division make cases over here?? I would have thought that even though Omega calls this a US-market model, they would still have made and shipped the whole watch as a unit, no?

    I'm not so worried about the hands, I realize replacing them might be cheaper, but if I just wanted "cheaper" I've got a $10 Timex.<G> Or my own "good" watch, that lights up like a battleship at night.<G>
     
  7. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 16, 2015

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    Omega had an independent US importer, Norman Morris Co. Inc., in those days. They would have imported the movement raw (as you say) and had the gold-filled or 14K cases made here under license from Omega. Dials, hands and crowns would have been either imported separately or also made here and the watch assembled in the USA. This was all done to save on customs duties. Very similar to the arrangement in the UK with Dennison for 9K cases at about the same time.

    Many other Swiss watch companies did this as well, including (but not limited to) Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Wittnauer and Universal.

    BTW, I was not suggesting "cheaper", but easier. Hands were standard sizes and lengths and came both with and without radium from the factory.

    Original Omega dials are all different sizes and while one might fit a particular movement, there are no guarantees that such a dial would fit a US made case.

    But if you want to beat your head against a wall....[​IMG]
    gatorcpa
     
  8. Mothra Jan 16, 2015

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    Punitive import taxes in various parts of the world have often made it impossible to bring in complete watches. The unease movements shipped en masse went straight into local cases....

    <edit> gator beat me to it by seconds....
     
  9. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 16, 2015

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    Not always. Sometimes the Swiss made cases were just imported separately. Most of the steel watch cases from Omega sold in the 1950's were Swiss made.

    The import duties on steel cases were much less than for gold by percentage of value.
    gatorcpa
     
  10. Red Jan 16, 2015

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    Interesting, but if the movements were from Omega, unless the US firm made up custom dials to match any "odd" case sies, it would have been easier for them to just stick the standard Omega sizes on both dials, cases, and crowns, no? In either case, one would expect that here in the US, old Omega watches would still create some "yeah we've done that before" market for those parts.

    Won't hurt too much to make a few calls.<G>
     
  11. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 16, 2015

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    Maybe, maybe not. Remember that the US and Europe used totally different sizing systems back then. And yes, some of the dials were made here in the US to fit those cases. That's why they say "Swiss" instead of "Swiss Made". And even Swiss made cases came in varying sizes for the same movement.

    So you can call a supply house or see a dial on eBay and ask, "does this dial fit a cal. 35x", and the answer would be yes. But then you need to see if it fits the case reference. You really can't tell unless you try to fit it in the case.

    With hands, you simple measure them and get the right length and hole size to match the ones you have.

    Good luck in finding an original dial to fit that movement and case. You're going to need it.
    gatorcpa
     
    noelekal likes this.
  12. Red Jan 17, 2015

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    Good points, Gator. Thanks.
     
  13. Red Jan 18, 2015

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    Gator, another US/EU question you might have some insight on. The 354 "US market" nameless Omega is the "same" 354 movement that was used in the Swiss-cased chronometer-certified watches. I know that with same "machines" they are actually all the same, just that some get pulled and calibrated and others not, i.e. to make "certified" versus "unadjusted". Is there any reason to believe that this was the case with Omega? All movements the same? Or did part of the chronometer process involve first seeing IF a particular movement was precise enough to be certified, with sorting and fitting and hand-tuning, not simply adjusting the timing, involved?

    Just curious, as this one is running quite reliably.
     
  14. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 18, 2015

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    I think that Desmond has an article on this somewhere in his site:

    http://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/

    There were a few movement calibers where some (but not all) were sent for certification. The cal. 354 is one of those. The cal. 501 rotor automatic is another. My understanding is that Omega simply chose a series of serial numbers to go into Constellations or Seamaster Chronometers, pulled those numbers from the line, then gave them a little extra work and some in-house testing before sending them off. Only makes sense, as Omega would want to be sure the movements would pass the tests.

    I do not believe that any special parts were used in these movements, unlike the cal. 352 and older, manual wind chronometers.
    gatorcpa
     
  15. Red Jan 18, 2015

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    "then gave them a little extra work"
    Ah, but that's like saying the H3 Hummer was "just" a Chevy Colorado pickup truck (I'm told it was) with just a few suspension modifications.<G> A shame we have no ex-employees left around to ask, whether that included fine balancing or polishing or other work on parts, as opposed to simply tweaking the existing screws.
    I see a number of those Connies with lumed hands that still look very much like mine. Didn't realize they'd look that good, so I may go that way after all.
    Thanks again!
     
  16. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 18, 2015

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    Not sure what you mean. Remember that watches marked as "Unadjusted" were only done like that to avoid US import duties. Many times (particularly for the better brands, like Omega), the US importer did adjustments when the movement was cased. They just couldn't advertise it as a chronometer.

    It's not like they slapped the lesser Omegas together with spit and glue, you know? ::stirthepot::
    gatorcpa
     
  17. Red Jan 18, 2015

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    What?! No spit?! No glue?!

    No, I was thinking of the electronics industry, among others. For instance, 3M used to make the finest magnetic recording tape. They'd pull reels from a batch and test them for dropouts. Any batch with more than 5 dropouts per reel, got dumped and sold as "white box" instead of 3M. As opposed to the RAM industry, where "all" 64-bit RAM chips might come off the same line, same batch. If they had contracts for 100,000 pieces of 150ns, they'd test parts until they had 100,000 that passed that speed, and the rest of the batch was sold as 250ns (slower) simply because they all would pass that lower spec, no sorting or testing needed. Seagate did the same thing with hard drives, an OEM like Digital Research could specify 10MB drives with "no more than 2" bad sectors. So they tested, and pulled enough drives to meet the order. The rest of the drives from the same production run? Could have up to 40 bad sectors, and that was all they were guaranteed for. Even if many were in fact better.

    So, many industries for many years have quietly pulled and sorted different grades from the same production run. It would make sense for a watchmaker to do similarly, the same way that Remington sold their "one in a thousand" rifles for a premium when one of the batch simply happened to be dead on the spec in every way, instead of just within tolerances.
     
  18. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 18, 2015

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    You've totally confused me now. So Volkswagen engines are defective Audis? ::confused2::

    I think you are seeing things that are just not there.

    To my knowledge, Omega did not sell "seconds", ever. There are a lot of parts in a fine watch and I'm sure that if a particular movement was found to be substandard, the parts were stripped and used in other watches or sold as spare parts if they met spec.

    The closest to that scenario I ever heard of is that an old time watchmaker once mentioned that in the olden days, the larger watch companies would supply the larger jewelers spare movements to swap out for warranty purposes if the in-house watchperson couldn't figure out what was wrong. They would then send the bad one back to the manufacturer, who sent another spare. This kept customer downtime to a minimum.

    Big difference between watches and recording tape or hard drives.
    gatorcpa
     
  19. Red Jan 18, 2015

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    "Seconds" is a bit harsh, that's not what I said. But in every manufacturing process, there is some tolerance, so some of the finished pieces will always be closer to optimum spec than others. Which is part of why a chronometer may have to be adjusted in some positions, as opposed to merely passing/failing a test.

    Your watch my keep time within +/- 2 seconds per day, mine may keep 3. Doesn't mean mine is a second, just that yours is closer to a perfect spec, or was adjusted more carefully. Or, that you swing your arm differently.(G)
     
  20. gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Jan 19, 2015

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    You're way overthinking this. Omega designated certain serial numbers, the watches were produced and then extra adjustment work was done. I'd be very surprised if they were able to take the time to segregate each and every part into "chronometer grade" and "non-chronometer grade" pieces during the assembly process. If you look at the parts sheet for one of the dedicated chronometer movements (i.e. cal. 352), you'll see that relatively few parts were made specifically for that movement and some of those were only cosmetic (like specially engraved rotors).

    @Archer might be a better person to address this issue.
    gatorcpa