1930s Gold & Gilt Dials

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Mazoue

·Oct 23, 2019

Not having previously bought any 1930s UG, I bought three in a week. Here are two with gold cases and gilt dials.

Ref 5576, Serial 613xxx, Cal 255
Bears a striking resemblance to the Patek Ref 96
I'm not certain about the other hands but at the very least, the minute hand has been replaced.

Ref 5335, Serial 620xxx, Cal 247
This seems to be the ladies' version of the UG 'Prince' retailed by Hermes in the 1930s. See lower centre of advert copied below courtesy of Sala.
The men's version was I think 29.5mm, whereas this is a diminutive 22mm.

I would not be at all surprised if this version was also retailed by Hermes. The buckle, which I think is original, seems to be identical in style to the buckle I've seen on a men's version. It has the eagle's head French hallmark for 18k gold along with another mark I don't recognise.

 

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bgrisso

·Oct 23, 2019

Both are beautiful ! What's the case size on the first one? I would think the second hand is also a likely replacement?

So the ladies dial has no branding ?

The black dials and gold cases are 👍

 

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Larry S

·Oct 23, 2019·Color Commentator for the Hyperbole.

Beauties...If I were the owner of the first watch, I'd just have my watchmaker shorten and shape vs searching for a new hand. My wife would happily wear the second one.

 

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valjoux72

·Oct 23, 2019

Absolutly gorgous watches!! HUGE congrats for both. Those UG disco volantes are looking awesome...

 

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bgrisso

·Oct 23, 2019

the buckle is really nice touch with the disco volantes

 

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Mazoue

·Oct 23, 2019

bgrisso

Both are beautiful ! What's the case size on the first one? I would think the second hand is also a likely replacement?

So the ladies dial has no branding ?

The black dials and gold cases are 👍

Thanks. The first watch is around 30.5mm. I think I can live with the second hand but I'll need to do something with the minute hand.

No branding on the ladies' watch but it's identical to a men's version I've seen with a Hermes dial and has identical marks inside the case back. In fact, the mark that I've been unable to identify on the buckle is also inside the case back I think.

Edited: Oct 23, 2019

 

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Mazoue

·Oct 23, 2019

Larry S

Beauties...If I were the owner of the first watch, I'd just have my watchmaker shorten and shape vs searching for a new hand. My wife would happily wear the second one.

Unfortunately, I don't think the minute hand is yellow gold. It may be heavily tarnished rose gold, I can't be sure but I'm fairly certain it is different and wouldn't match.

 

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aap

·Oct 23, 2019

Nice! Congrats. The first one is so similar to this Patek (courtesy of a Japanese collector, who although has allowed me to share pics of his watches, told me not to reveal his name):

 

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WhereMadnessLies

·Oct 23, 2019

Nice watches, congratulations.

Mazoue

It has the eagle's head French hallmark for 18k gold along with another mark I don't recognise.

Given the second hallmarks style and that it contains 2 initials I would guess that it is the makers mark. There are some listed here for L R but none that have a motif of a rising sun.

http://www.silvercollection.it/frenchsilversmithsLDUE.html

 

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Mazoue

·Oct 24, 2019

aap

Nice! Congrats. The first one is so similar to this Patek (courtesy of a Japanese collector, who although has allowed me to share pics of his watches, told me not to reveal his name):

Completely agree. The main difference aesthetically being that the Patek has applied hour markers.

Here's an interesting article about the history of the Patek Ref 96 https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/

Presumably the success of this Patek model led UG and others to copy the design.

 

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billving

·Oct 24, 2019

Very nice

 

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MarktheTime

·Oct 24, 2019

Mazoue

Not having previously bought any 1930s UG, I bought three in a week. Here are two with gold cases and gilt dials.

Ref 5576, Serial 613xxx, Cal 255
Bears a striking resemblance to the Patek Ref 96
I'm not certain about the other hands but at the very least, the minute hand has been replaced.

Ref 5335, Serial 620xxx, Cal 247
This seems to be the ladies' version of the UG 'Prince' retailed by Hermes in the 1930s. See lower centre of advert copied below courtesy of Sala.
The men's version was I think 29.5mm, whereas this is a diminutive 22mm.

I would not be at all surprised if this version was also retailed by Hermes. The buckle, which I think is original, seems to be identical in style to the buckle I've seen on a men's version. It has the eagle's head French hallmark for 18k gold along with another mark I don't recognise.

Really cool - great scores all around! Congrats!