Forums Latest Members
  1. Mazoue Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    1,134
    Likes
    2,590
    Not having previously bought any 1930s UG, I bought three in a week. Here are two with gold cases and gilt dials.

    Ref 5576, Serial 613xxx, Cal 255
    Bears a striking resemblance to the Patek Ref 96
    I'm not certain about the other hands but at the very least, the minute hand has been replaced.
    IMG_1020.jpg

    Ref 5335, Serial 620xxx, Cal 247
    This seems to be the ladies' version of the UG 'Prince' retailed by Hermes in the 1930s. See lower centre of advert copied below courtesy of Sala.
    The men's version was I think 29.5mm, whereas this is a diminutive 22mm.
    IMG_1029.JPG

    Hermes.jpg

    I would not be at all surprised if this version was also retailed by Hermes. The buckle, which I think is original, seems to be identical in style to the buckle I've seen on a men's version. It has the eagle's head French hallmark for 18k gold along with another mark I don't recognise.
    IMG_1031.JPG
    IMG_1035.JPG
     
  2. bgrisso Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    3,125
    Likes
    6,882
    Both are beautiful ! What's the case size on the first one? I would think the second hand is also a likely replacement?

    So the ladies dial has no branding ?

    The black dials and gold cases are :thumbsup:
     
    filmir likes this.
  3. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    12,521
    Likes
    49,710
    Beauties...If I were the owner of the first watch, I'd just have my watchmaker shorten and shape vs searching for a new hand. My wife would happily wear the second one.
     
    filmir likes this.
  4. valjoux72 Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    510
    Likes
    1,892
    Absolutly gorgous watches!! HUGE congrats for both. Those UG disco volantes are looking awesome...
     
    filmir likes this.
  5. bgrisso Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    3,125
    Likes
    6,882
    the buckle is really nice touch with the disco volantes
     
    filmir likes this.
  6. Mazoue Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    1,134
    Likes
    2,590
    Thanks. The first watch is around 30.5mm. I think I can live with the second hand but I'll need to do something with the minute hand.

    No branding on the ladies' watch but it's identical to a men's version I've seen with a Hermes dial and has identical marks inside the case back. In fact, the mark that I've been unable to identify on the buckle is also inside the case back I think.
     
    Edited Oct 23, 2019
    ELV web and bgrisso like this.
  7. Mazoue Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    1,134
    Likes
    2,590
    Unfortunately, I don't think the minute hand is yellow gold. It may be heavily tarnished rose gold, I can't be sure but I'm fairly certain it is different and wouldn't match.
     
  8. aap Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    3,064
    Likes
    23,657
    Nice! Congrats. The first one is so similar to this Patek (courtesy of a Japanese collector, who although has allowed me to share pics of his watches, told me not to reveal his name):

    [​IMG]
     
  9. WhereMadnessLies Oct 23, 2019

    Posts
    179
    Likes
    983
    Nice watches, congratulations.

    Given the second hallmarks style and that it contains 2 initials I would guess that it is the makers mark. There are some listed here for L R but none that have a motif of a rising sun.

    http://www.silvercollection.it/frenchsilversmithsLDUE.html
     
  10. Mazoue Oct 24, 2019

    Posts
    1,134
    Likes
    2,590
    Completely agree. The main difference aesthetically being that the Patek has applied hour markers.

    Here's an interesting article about the history of the Patek Ref 96 https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/

    Presumably the success of this Patek model led UG and others to copy the design.
     
    aap likes this.
  11. billving Oct 24, 2019

    Posts
    559
    Likes
    324
    Very nice
     
  12. MarktheTime Oct 24, 2019

    Posts
    798
    Likes
    3,292
    Really cool - great scores all around! Congrats!