Hello all,

Just picked up a 2.15 1680 MK1 that needs some TLC and I’m looking for some advice. This is my first foray into the world of vintage Rolex and I appreciate any help/advice that you can provide.

As you can see from the pics, the case has certainly been polished. The hour and second hands have been relumed at some point in the past. And there is some tritium loss on the 1 & 2 hour markers.

On the positive side, the Kissing 40 bezel is in pretty good shape and, outside of the tritium loss, the dial is perfect.

Beyond getting a general service, replacing the top hat crystal, and having the C&I bracelet serviced/rebuilt, what would you do to this piece if it was yours? And where would you send it for the work to be completed?

 

Nice pickup, I think it will clean up really nicely.

How do you know that the H and S hands have been relumed? Are you just going by the color, because that's not really a good way to determine that, they could just have picked up some mold. Have you looked at the response to UV and then the fading after UV is turned off?

I don't think I'd mess around with the dial at all, the lume loss isn't bad enough to justify it. Case is totally up to you if you want to have it refinished by LAWW or Rolliworks. Good news is that the lugs still look pretty thick.

 

Incidentally, even when re-built, it will never be easy to get the C&I to be a good fit on that watch. With some work, they can look reasonably ok on a 1675, but the end-links really don't fit the Sub cases very well. If you're sure it's original, and you're determined to use it, then you can live with the sloppy look. But you might want to save the money on the restoration and just sell it as is, and buy a Swiss bracelet, like a 7206 or 9315. They look much better.

 

@Dan S Am I seeing things or are these two lugs shorter than the other side (see black arrows)? I know the case has been polished and these two lugs have a different shape than the opposite sides, but they also look shorter. Edit: and i don’t mean because of the end links overhang. They just look marginally shorter.

 

I think it's just the sloppy fit of the end-links that gives that illusion. If the OP removes the bracelet and takes a good photo from the back, I suspect it will look fine. As I mentioned, the lugs look pretty thick to me. The main issue is the rounding of the chamfer and some cratering of the lug-holes, but I've seen worse. The case is really a matter of taste. Some people are happy with a case that shows age, and others want it to have the original lines, even though it's obviously refinished. I've done both at different times, just depending how a particular case makes me feel,

 

I have not looked under a UV, was going solely based on the color difference between the H&S hands and the minute hand, which matches the dial lume plots.

I don’t think I’m going to get the case refinished. Leaning toward leaving it as is. And I agree about the dial, I think I just want to make sure everything is stabilized.

 

Pretty sure @Dan S is right, this is just an optical illusion from the bracelet fit. When I told it flush with the case, it matches up with the links on both sides. Once I’ve got the bracelet off, however, I can add some additional photos.

 

I have had watch hands get infected by mold, and the mold spreads only within one of the lume plot segments, gradually making it darker. It doesn't even cross over to the other lume segments in that same hand. Most likely, your lume is all original. However, if you don't like the way it looks, you can get it all re-done, but I don't recommend it.

 

Yeah I think it's just a trippy optical illusion. For me, the illusion wasn't the end link as I know those older ones can get pretty sloppy, but the rim lighting on the top left lug. Because there is a bright highlight on that lug compared to the opposite (top right lug), there is an illusion that it's shorter.

 

If it were me I would re-lume the hands during service and leave the case and dial alone. As for the bracelet I would sell the C&I and put it on a swiss rivet or 9315. Awesome acquisition.

out of curiosity what is the rivet dated?

 

Thank you! Going to be a debate on whether I lume the hands or not. Want to leave it as original as possible, without it bothering me aesthetically.

The C&I is dated 75.

 

Actually, I’d like to know what the UV test reveals. I was reading the above replies and I did not know that about the mold being localized to just one hand.

 

So if the watch is a 2.15M serial, it is likely from 1969-ish, suggesting that the bracelet is probably not original. It's remotely possible that the watch wasn't sold until 1975, but not very likely.

 

Wonderful pick up and a definite Mk 1 dial... closed sixes and long F over T
Personally, I'd just get it serviced, and a new crystal.

Now, once you find out if hands have been relumed or not, then I'd consider sourcing original hands to match dial... this will keep you busy for years and sell the C & I bracelet and find the correct bracelet ref 7206 with 80 end pieces.

You didn't say where you are located, but, IMHO the best watchmakers for vintage Rolex models are Bob Ridley and Phillip Ridley of Watchmakers International, located in Texas USA.

Link: https://watchmakers.com/restoration-services/

 

I was so anxious to get it today! Online estate sale auction, of all places.

Located in Portland, OR, but originally from a suburb of Dallas (and still have family in the area).

 

Philip has moved to Arizona and started his own business IIRC.
https://ridleywatchmakers.com

 

Nice catch...I happen to be wearing my 1680 from 1972 while servicing another from 1972...



Mine on the left...

 

Nice lume color on yours.

 

No question... send it to the Ridleys. Bob serviced my 1680 Mk 2 dial serial 2.2 quite some time ago. Bob, at least at the time, has one of the largest selection of vintage parts in the country. The twin locked crown had been replaced with a triplock crown, Bob replaced with correct twin lock. Give him a call. Thanks Dan S, I didn't realize that Phillip had left and started his own service in Arizona... good to know. You have two Ridleys to choose from.

 

Is this the one from that online auction in Colorado?