168.5004 Conundrum

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Hi all,

As I've posted previously - I picked up my first vintage Omega from a member on here a few months ago. A 168.5004 with a 561 movement.

The watch had a replacement (service) crown and an incorrect crystal. It was also losing about 60s a day, and on a particularly cold day, moving to a warm room caused some condensation inside the crystal which gave me some concern.

I decided to send it in for a service, crystal replacement, and as I had also managed to source a correct replacement crown, a crown swap.

168.5004 is a "hidden crown" Constellation, and whilst plenty of people have said they were frustrating to use (foreshadowing?) - I quite liked the idea of trying to make the watch "correct", as well as liking the aesthetic.

The watchmaker has been in touch, and let me know that the previous crystal had been glued in, perhaps in an attempt to improve water resistance. This required some cleanup, however the Omega replacement was successfully installed.

He also informed me, that whilst the replacement crown I had sourced does appear to be correct, and fits nicely, there is too much friction between the crown and case tube to manually wind, and it's difficult to set the time with the crown pulled out.

As well as this, he let me know that with either crown, the watch doesn't pass a waterproof test.

I know from reading other threads on here that original waterproof specs is not always possible with vintage watches, and I certainly don't want to take the watch for a dip, however I am concerned about the condensation.

I suppose my questions are:

- If the crown is correct (and this not a certainty) what could be preventing it from successfully winding the watch? The watchmaker believes that replacing the case tube is unlikely to resolve this issue
- Are hidden crown Constellations known for a problem like this? And would a soft jaw winding tool allow for winding?
- If I switch back to the old crown, whilst I will have a watch that can be wound, how concerned should I be about condensation? I live in a humid area

Whilst my preferred outcome would be a "correct watch" (in terms of crown and crystal), that can be worn without concern of moisture in the air, and wound (with a tool if necessary). I would settle for a watch with an incorrect crown that I can still wear without concern of humidity/moisture.

Many thanks in advance for advice and opinions!

Sam
 
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Oh, also please tell me if I'm being completely unreasonable in my expectations! I'm very new to this game
 
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First of all, congratulations on your choice of Constellation.

Pics are everything @smb88.
Original and post service.

No, hidden crown Constellations are known for being difficult to wind but not for binding against the case.

Original style crowns are great for a hidden crown Constellation.
However, the replacement crowns really aren’t that bad and the UK cases are often seen with projecting crowns.
Plus they should provide better water resistance.

Condensation is not a good thing and should resolved if possible.
 
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I would ask watchmaker to source a proper service crown- that may be an easy solution.
 
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First of all, congratulations on your choice of Constellation.

Pics are everything @smb88.
Original and post service.

No, hidden crown Constellations are known for being difficult to wind but not for binding against the case.

Original style crowns are great for a hidden crown Constellation.
However, the replacement crowns really aren’t that bad and the UK cases are often seen with projecting crowns.
Plus they should provide better water resistance.

Condensation is not a good thing and should resolved if possible.
Thanks for the response!

I don't have the watch returned yet, so can't post any pics post-service, however this is the watch in question:

 
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I would ask watchmaker to source a proper service crown- that may be an easy solution.
Thanks for the advice, that's a great third option.

I'll ask them about a new, service crown.

I'd hope the combination of a new Omega crystal and a new Omega crown would be sufficient to prevent against condensation (I don't expect full waterproofing, and wouldn't subject the watch to anything like that anyway).
 
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This is a slightly tricky one - because, as @jimmyd13 says in his advert, the case is Dennison made and, whilst they are high quality cases and are near approximations of a Swiss case, a standard Omega crystal might not be an exact fit.

However, Dennison would have had to make the case to Omega’s exacting waterproofing standards and even if Dennison sourced their own crystals the crystal shouldn’t be glued in.
The Omega Crystal and retaining ring, collectively, form the waterproofing system.
It might be best to have your watchmaker measure the aperture for the crystal, ( very precisely) compare that to the size of the Omega crystal, and proceed from there.

The style of crown that was on there is the correct replacement crown for the reference.
It would be worth replacing it with a new correct replacement crown rather than trying to find the ‘correct’ hidden crown style which may no longer be waterproof.
(I really don’t know why either should be binding)

In the sale pics, there is no caseback gasket shown - presumably there was one fitted post sales pics? - or at least will be post service from your watchmaker.

As someone commented in the sales advert, the hands should be the dauphine style hands.
I’m pretty sure your watchmaker should be able to find these if you wanted to replace them to make the watch more correct.

If you haven’t seen it already, you can find your watch on Pgs 13&14 of this essay from Desmond’s Bog.

https://download1350.mediafire.com/...sm0adrdqjswgdp1/Dennison+Essay+March+2015.pdf
 
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Due to it being a Dennison cased example, the Swiss Omega crown may not fit correctly.
Rather then try and use a totally hidden crown, I'd go with @Peemacgee and try to find an original style "Dennison" crown.
 
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Unfortunately the watchmaker wasn't prepared to install a new Omega service crown without also commissioning a jeweller to solder in a new case tube, so the old crown was re-installed and the watch returned.

They did do a great job with the service and the watch is running very nicely, and the new crystal also looks lovely.

I would still like to have a new Omega service crown installed at some point, and although I do think the current hands look really nice, especially with the black inlay against the markers, it would be nice to have a dauphine hand set for the watch.

Does anyone happen to know if Omega still supply replacement dauphine hands for 561 movements? Or would it be a case of hunting some down, if so what should I be looking for? For the last few months I've had a search on eBay for "561 hands" which hasn't been very successful!

Cheers
Sam

 
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Regarding hands, it’s not 561 hands you need - as they come in varying sizes ( e.g. pie pan and dome dial but also possibly dial size? e,g. 168.005-v-168.004 - not sure if the slight variation in dial size affects the hand length) Anyway - it’s the correct length 168.004 dome dial hands you require.

One of our resident watchmakers may be able to tell you if Omega still supply them new.
 
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I hate hidden crown models. Pain to wind. The reason it may not wind as well is the rubber gasket is new and rubbing against the crown tube.

Doesn’t matter what new crown you add. They all rub. What I usually did when I restored was rub a little watch makers grease on the tube to lubricate and make it easier to wind. Thus avoiding possible complaints from buyers
 
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I hate hidden crown models. Pain to wind.
Whilst I am very fond of hidden crown Constellations- this is very true.
 
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Regarding hands, it’s not 561 hands you need - as they come in varying sizes ( e.g. pie pan and dome dial but also possibly dial size? e,g. 168.005-v-168.004 - not sure if the slight variation in dial size affects the hand length) Anyway - it’s the correct length 168.004 dome dial hands you require.

One of our resident watchmakers may be able to tell you if Omega still supply them new.
Thanks for this, v helpful. Cousins UK website still seems to allow you to search for Omega parts by case number (although you can't order them), using 168.004 I see the list in the attached image, the following seem to be most relevant for my watch:

  • Hand, Centre Seconds, Gold, Omega 066UX1365 X13513 (13.5mm)
  • Hand, Centre Seconds, Gold, Omega 066UX1377550 X13512 (12.75mm)
  • Hour & Minute Hand, Gold Plated With Black Infill, Omega 065TX8183 X26760

Searching for 168.5004 (AIUI the UK ref for the 168.004 case) doesn't show any Hour/Minute hands, but does show this seconds hand:

- Hand, Centre Seconds, Gold, Omega 066UX1355 X21200 (10.5mm)

Which is 10.5mm in length(!), so much shorter than the options for the non-UK case.

I'm not sure what to make of this!

I'm also not sure which would be the Omega part number, am I right in thinking it's the one beginning with a 0? So for the dauphine hands I would want to be searching for 065TX8183?

 
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I hate hidden crown models. Pain to wind. The reason it may not wind as well is the rubber gasket is new and rubbing against the crown tube.

Doesn’t matter what new crown you add. They all rub. What I usually did when I restored was rub a little watch makers grease on the tube to lubricate and make it easier to wind. Thus avoiding possible complaints from buyers
Thanks DON, I will bear this in mind should I try and get the crown fitted again
 
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The hands should be (measured by eye) :
Hour : just short of 9mm - so 8.75mm sounds right
Minute: just short of 13mm - so 12.75m sounds right

The second hand should be approx. the same length as the minute hand.

You don't say what length the 8183 hands are but I see from Cousins that they are 12.70mm for the minute hand. (hour hand not specified)
So 12.75 for the second hand (above) is about right.

yes the reference no. is the 066... number

You won't find a reference for hands for a 168.5004 as the movt., dial and hands were sent complete from Switzerland to be fitted into an English gold case.
The reason the crown may differ is because it has to fit an English case.

I see that these hands appear to be common to a lot of the Constellation references
Odd that Cousins don't give the option for the shorter pie-pan hands.