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165.024 Seamaster

Caselock
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southtexas southtexas
Hi, for clarity sake, are you describing 3 distinct font colors, being 1) “gilt”, 2) silver, and 3) white?

Or is it 1) “gilt” OR 2) “silver/white”?

I just found out that the Isnardi-Book is sold out. But isn`t he member on this forum? Maybe he could chip in...
Meanwhile I asked wether I could show a pic of his book but got no reply.

I think if I quote the interesting part of the text it should be alright legally!?

Here we go, page 163 of this great book, printed 2019:

"...All Seamasters tend to have a silver-colored galvanic base, the gilt graphics of the first models often derive from the transperent finish that turns yellow with time."

Further down there are 10 different (A-L) dial fonts described for the ST 165.024 and 4 different (M-P) types for the ST 166.024: The dial types give information about the colour, T and Swiss Made inprints, presence or absence of alignment holes, the Omega sign and differences, the luminescent compund used, and an approx. year of appearnce. All these types are connected to excamles to underline the statements.

"A- Gilt print without ...."
"B- Well pronounced gilt print ..."
"C- Silver print, ..."
"D- Unusaul print ...."
"E- Silver print, ..."
"F- White stamped print,..."

etc.

I hope this does not interfere with forum -rules nor the copiright. If so, please delete this.
 
Caselock
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I had contact with Isnardi, it is ok to show some pages:

copyright Isnardi:

IMG_3266.jpeg
Edited:
 
Caselock
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And good news from him: his book is available! I obviously misunderstood his homepage...
 
Caselock
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A little update what happened so far:

I gave the crystal a chance with a polish: now it allows a better view on the dial, the dilemma is: the better the crystal, the worse the damaged dial looks, but I can live with that: it´s a diver, so getting in contact with water will lead to typical signs of wear... The gaskets are changed, the pressure check (without movement) was ok, the lume was stabilised from the back. The movement got cleaned and oiled. Otherwise, the case stayed untouched as is. The bracelet got adjusted, so now it is ready to be used: probably more a dress watch with a diving past than a true tool watch...

Btw, are there members here that use these vintage ones still for diving? Share your experiances if you have...

Best, caslock


IMG_0724 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0729 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0736 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0725 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0732 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0747 (1024x768).jpg IMG_0748 (1024x768).jpg
 
southtexas
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It's hard to see the condition of the dial due to the lighting (case and bezel look VERY nice!). Can you post pics with the dial receiving direct light?

As to your question about diving etc--mine recently passed a pressure test to 300 feet, but I don't feel it's worth the risk to use it for water activities (swimming, fishing, etc). The difficulty and cost of finding a nice replacement dial/handset makes my decision easy. I will use a modern diver (Serica 5303). Your results may vary.

edit to add: Mine is not a screw down crown.
Edited:
 
Knudsen1971
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I wear/swim/dive a screw down variant only (watchco), vintage naiad version I don`t swim in salty waters, as it kills the bezel lume most...I made this experience on my Ploprof in the past...
So, if you get you SD crown changed + crystal and case back seal + WR test pass, you can dive it. As you bezel is also beyond saving, I can`t see why not...
 
Caselock
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southtexas southtexas
It's hard to see the condition of the dial due to the lighting (case and bezel look VERY nice!). Can you post pics with the dial receiving direct light?

As to your question about diving etc--mine recently passed a pressure test to 300 feet, but I don't feel it's worth the risk to use it for water activities (swimming, fishing, etc). The difficulty and cost of finding a nice replacement dial/handset makes my decision easy. I will use a modern diver (Serica 5303). Your results may vary.

edit to add: Mine is not a screw down crown.

I will try to take a better pic of the dial. And thanks, I share your point on using the watch in the water...
 
Caselock
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Knudsen1971 Knudsen1971
I wear/swim/dive a screw down variant only (watchco), vintage naiad version I don`t swim in salty waters, as it kills the bezel lume most...I made this experience on my Ploprof in the past...
So, if you get you SD crown changed + crystal and case back seal + WR test pass, you can dive it. As you bezel is also beyond saving, I can`t see why not...

The SD crown is likely the safer choice for diving compared to the Naiad crown. Still I have the feeling that the water could harm the bezel insert: I would expect it to creep inbetween the acrylic and the steel rim, especially on a watch of 50+ years...
 
Knudsen1971
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Yes, it will harm the bezel insert lume, it can turn down from vintage yellow patina to gray/ black.
But yours wont get much worse, than is now
 
Caselock
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southtexas southtexas
It's hard to see the condition of the dial due to the lighting (case and bezel look VERY nice!). Can you post pics with the dial receiving direct light?

As to your question about diving etc--mine recently passed a pressure test to 300 feet, but I don't feel it's worth the risk to use it for water activities (swimming, fishing, etc). The difficulty and cost of finding a nice replacement dial/handset makes my decision easy. I will use a modern diver (Serica 5303). Your results may vary.

edit to add: Mine is not a screw down crown.

I forgot to post: this is the best picture so far to show the damage on the dial....

IMG_0741 (1024x768).jpg
 
Fallout Boy
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👍 indeed: a nice and authentic gilt no-date 300! I would only polish the hands - if at all.....and avoid water 😉
 
Knudsen1971
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Would just stabilize the lume - have clear coated the back of the hands and leave it as is...
 
Caselock
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Knudsen1971 Knudsen1971
Would just stabilize the lume - have clear coated the back of the hands and leave it as is...
... I will go this way ...
 
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