J joe bandI bought a Seiko 6139 from this dealer, that was obviously a mix of parts, but attractive to me and was low enough priced, that i was good with the transaction. What was a concern was that it ran horribly, after being assured it had been serviced. He refunded me some, but the final service was more that the original price of the watch. Buyer beware.
If anyone here is interested in this "project", i.e. selling the case back and buying a new case back for the 145.012, I was able to get the seller to drop the price to $5868 net to him. Or else he would be taking a "loss" on it. I'm thinking he misevaluated this watch as well and is trying to push what was told to him. I told him that at least "something" was mismatched on this watch, either from Omega or during previous ownership.
$5868 seems like a decent price for a 145.012, taking into consideration you would have to search for a matching caseback. But then again, if you follow the mantra of "buy the seller", seems a bit sketchy
I was chatting with him too. I just don’t buy the story. Occam’s razor dictates that the simplest explanation is usually right. In this case, it’s a mismatched case back.
He could easily get an extract on the serial and prove what it is.
Not sure it is a good price given the condition. That caseback will also be expensive to replace.
Extracts haven’t been available for over a year now.
Extracts haven’t been available for over a year now.
Not sure it is a good price given the condition. That caseback will also be expensive to replace.
My speedmaster came with two casebacks. One engraved. The other is for the wrong ref. Sometime in the last 30 or so years I misplaced the incorrect caseback. I thought it was in a safe location, but somehow it migrated somewhere else.
In theory the casback currently on the watch (105.012) is worth more than the correct caseback. Extracts ended before I got a chance to get one. The online charts date the watch to around 1970 (possibly my 10th birthday.) The movement is an 861. While I could make an educated guess, without the extract I am unsure what the correct caseback should be.
We think we can keep the extra parts safe, but 30 years can be a long time, and much can happen. Sometimes interest drift. I went 18 or so years focusing more on fancy street organs, with minimal interest in watches. It never went away completely, so when the interest returned it is like it was never away.
The existing case-back has roughly the same value as the missing case-back, so there might not be much of a net expense. Could even be a modest net gain. However, it will take some time and energy to buy the right one and sell the wrong one, and it's a pain in the neck for a watch that's not terribly appealing.
A couple of years ago, I bought a Rolex with no movement photos and found that it had the wrong case-back. Fortunately, it had a case-back from a more valuable reference, so I easily made a small profit on the exchange, but it was an unexpected project and therefore a pain in the neck.
At this point, it doesn't even matter how "potentially" okay the deal for the watch may be. After speaking to the seller, it just doesn't feel right. I like to feel the history and possibly know some provenance to a watch. And for this example, it's just doesn't sit right. Someone mislead the seller, which in turn, is trying to mislead another buyer. Then he "sold" and relisted this watch and it's been sitting for months. Just ick all around.
Yes, I'm not suggesting that anyone should buy the watch.
Although to be candid, I'm not a big believer in the "buy the seller" mantra. Ultimately you are buying the watch, and many sellers are totally ignorant about what they have. The key is to have enough knowledge to judge the watch for yourself, and take the seller's claims with a grain of salt. I can't tell you how many good watches I've bought from people with BS stories about a watch's history, they just don't know and there's no point in arguing. Even professional auction listings are often completely wrong.
As long as you know what you're buying, you're confident it's not a scam (not really an issue on eBay), and the price is right, you're fine. In the long run, you will forget who you bought it from.
Yes, I'm not suggesting that anyone should buy the watch.
Although to be candid, I'm not a big believer in the "buy the seller" mantra. Ultimately you are buying the watch, and many sellers are totally ignorant about what they have. The key is to have enough knowledge to judge the watch for yourself, and take the seller's claims with a grain of salt. I can't tell you how many good watches I've bought from people with BS stories about a watch's history, they just don't know and there's no point in arguing. Even professional auction listings are often completely wrong.
As long as you know what you're buying, you're confident it's not a scam (not really an issue on eBay), and the price is right, you're fine. In the long run, you will forget who you bought it from.
Yes, I'm not suggesting that anyone should buy the watch.
Although to be candid, I'm not a big believer in the "buy the seller" mantra. Ultimately you are buying the watch, and many sellers are totally ignorant about what they have. The key is to have enough knowledge to judge the watch for yourself, and take the seller's claims with a grain of salt. I can't tell you how many good watches I've bought from people with BS stories about a watch's history, they just don't know and there's no point in arguing. Even professional auction listings are often completely wrong.
As long as you know what you're buying, you're confident it's not a scam (not really an issue on eBay), and the price is right, you're fine. In the long run, you will forget who you bought it from.
I think I agree. In this case, someone will get a premoon 145.012 under 6k, assuming they negotiate to the price above, in "Fair/Good" condition, which I guess is an OK deal.
Omega Speedmaster ST 105.003-65 in a stainless steel case, featuring the Omega Cal. 321 manual-wind movement. This Speedmaster is in wonderful working condition, keeps time, and the chronograph runs correctly.
From the listing:
There is also a 14 day return window, and given the price, I'd imagine this ships to eBay for authentication. So, at worst, you get it and return it. If it's not in working order, return it as "item not as described". Ebay is very protective of buyers this way.