Fig 11: Comparing to Fig 7, the toothed wheel (ratchet wheel), which has a square centre hole, has been fitted onto the square section of the arbor. It has an inner set of teeth and an outer set. If we turn this while the barrel is held by the centre wheel large gear, then the spring will get wound. The outer teeth are contacting the small semicircular piece added at about 10:30 which is the click. When the ratchet wheel rotates clockwise, the click gets pushed out of the way as shown. We need the click to spring back clockwise when the wind is finished to lock this the ratchet wheel and that is done by the click spring.
Fig 12: This is the click spring which is slightly bent up at the left hand end to catch the click.
Fig 13: The spring fits in the barrel plate groove and is held by that.
Fig 14: This is the inner ratchet wheel and the small gear on this meshes with the inner set of teeth on the ratchet wheel from Fig 11. It is shown upside down. It is this wheel that gets turned by the crown via the crown wheel.
Fig 15: Inner ratchet wheel and crown wheel mounted. The click spring has been fitted so the click is shown in it's locked position and the arbor cannot rotate anticlockwise. The crown wheel is driven through the slot on the left which becomes clearer turning the movement over.
Fig 16: From the dial side, the crown wheel teeth can be seen through the vertical slot at 3 O'clock. This is where the keyless works will drive it. Note the wheels from Fig 9 and 10 are not shown for clarity (and I forgot to put them back on).
Fig 17: From the left: clutch wheel; winding pinion and stem attached to the crown. Whoever designed these crowns was a 'form over function' guy as I can hardly grip it when the movement is cased. The clutch wheel has a square hole through it to vfit with the square section of the stem so, it always turns when the crown is turned. The 'clutch' part from which it derives it's name are the saw teeth at the right hand end that mesh with equivalent teeth on the winding pinion. The winding pinion has a circular hole so does not rotate with the crown unless the clutch wheel is engaged with it.
Fig 18: To make this clearer, I am putting the keyless works in withot grease so, it will all come apart again at the end... Those 3 parts fitted and the winding pinion is meshed with the crown wheel on the other side of the mainplate. The clutch wheel is shown almost engaged with the winding pinion. At the moment, it is free to move along the square section of the stem so we need to keep it in it's default position hard up to the winding pinion.
Fig 19: This is done by the Yoke (the vertical steel lever) and the yoke spring which looks a bit like a click spring. The yoke sits in the groove of the clutch wheel and pushes it to the right so it engages with the winding pinion sawteeth. Now, turning the crown will cause the barrel arbor to turn but, the crown can still be pulled out if as there is nothing to retain it. To the right of the winding pinion is a groove in the stem and it will be retained by putting a pin in that groove.
Fig 20: This is the setting lever and it retains the stem and crown. It is shown flipped over about a vertical axis and, as I forgot to take a picture, it is one from the scrap pile. That's why it is dirty, I promise! The lower part has a pin to fit in the stem groove and the large upper pin (in the corner of the L) fits into the baseplate hole. This is the part to push to remove the crown and stem.
Fig 21: Here it is, flipped right to left and fitted. It needs to be held down and that is performed by the setting lever pressure spring. It is free to rotate about the corner of the L where the big pin is through the baseplate. There is a small pin towards us at the upper left which is needed later.
Fig 22: The setting lever pressure spring is a piece of spring steel curved in this view and held by the one screw. It sits on the corner of the setting lever and provides the resistance when the lever is pushed from behind to release the crown and stem. The setting lever is still free to rotate which is needed to set the hands.
Fig 23: Replacing the wheels from Figures 9 and 10 which connect the minute and hour hands, there is one additional gear added here which serves no function when the watch is running. It s the small steel gear close to the clutch wheel and meshes with the gear from Fig 9.
Fig 24: But, when the crown is pulled out, the setting lever rotates about it's corner and pushes the cluch wheel away from the winding pinion so that it engages with this small gear. In this configuration, the crown turns the minute and hour hands but is disengaged from the winding mechanism.
Fig 25: In fact this is more accurately controlled by the setting lever spring (not to be confused with the setting lever pressure spring above!) which is this plate held on with two screws. It also serves to hold all this in place. The leg running vertically is the spring part and has two notches (a 565 quick date will have three) to engage with the small vertical pin of the setting lever. Here it is in 'crown in, wind position'.
Fig 26: Here it is in 'crown out, time set position'.
Well, that's part one and two. Next will be the train (the part that tells the centre wheel when to move, then date mechanism, then auto winder.
Cheers, Chris
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