Looking around for rare watches, which have problably never been seen and discussed here or at other forums, is thrilling. Bye the way: My watch passion started some years ago reading two articles from Ben Clymer at Hodinkee talking about two beautiful and "unkown" 1960/70 Lecoultre chronographs.

Of course there is always the possibility to find a franken watch, but he... no risk - no fun!
So when I saw this beauty the first time, I was thrilled at once. Why?

Well, first of all I was looking for a nice vintage regulateur for my small collection for quite a while. I just love the idea and the pure elegance of vintage regulateur dials.
Next the ad said it was made by Universal Geneve, guess for most of us here one of the coolest brands to go for. And it looked awesome for me.

Yesterday the watch arrived, so here is what I call my "White unicorn". (Sorry for quality of pics)

First of all look at the simplicity of the dial. For me minimalism at its best.
Just two subdials and outer ring without additional numbers, only small seconds at 5-60.
The two big subdials just reach to the center, at the left and right side only space for small inscription.


Not enough space for "Universal Geneve" left, just added in black at the hour subdial below 12. I don´t know for sure, but think I saw something like that once on an early aerocompax...
Number for minutes and hour are in gold and in different style. Just love it! Swiss made signature below the minute subdial.

Case is around 35mm without crown, so really wearable for me. The caseback has heavy patina, no UG serial number. Inscription "Swiss Made" readable with a loupe.


I have not opend the caseback, so no movement shot possible at the moment. The age? 40´ies, 50´ies? Difficult question for me, so what do you think?


I never have seen a UG regulateur here or on other forums. So I started a extensive internet research (nothing found in my few watchbooks) to find nearly nothing. Could just grab out a pic of one other example in gold case with different dial, but same kind of signature and numerals on the subdials..




So due to te second one I found online, I´m a bit more confident that the watch is orign UG. If one of you may have an other UG regulateur in your collection or other pics from books, please let us see.

Because white unicorns are really rare!! I believed they didn´t exist until I found this beauty.

 

oh wow - incredible UG.
Sorry, I don't much about it but I know enough to appreciate that is an amazing piece!

 

Iam sorry to say i dont belive UG would put ancre 15 Rubis on the dial somebody have played a trick on this

 

Welcome to the world of vintage watches!

I'm convinced this is franken watch. Show us a movement shot and all will be revealed.

,David

 

Waiting for a movement shot!!! This piece looks fantastic, though I have not ever seen one of them.

 

Don't believe this is a real UG. Doesn't seem an high end watch like UG watches were in those days.

Hope i'm wrong but i doubt it

 

Sorry guys,

but movements shot has to wait because I will go on holiday tomorrow.
I will show it my watchmaker after coming home.
Well I´m quite sure that we wan´t find a highend UG movement inside. Can´t belive that Universal made an inhouse regulateur movement without finding more other references. But it still is an interesting and beautiful watch, and from my point of view a regulateur (UG or not) watch belongs into every good collection.
And for me it doesn´t really make sense to add imprinted UG name, because these watches weren´t very popular and precious in the early days. And print looks quite old to me. As far as I understand regulateur watches were "tool" watches that helps timing exactly (minutes). So maybe they are not UG made but made for UG?
If anybody of you has more thoughts concerning the "unicorn", please let us know.

 

Just bring this thread up because had the watch at my watchmaker. She added a new crystal and we opened caseback. So I finally made a pic of the movement. As written before unsigned caseback and unsigned movement. Here are just the pics.
But even if it is not original made by UG, I just like the regulator quite a lot. It is so nice to see the three single hands running .

 

Certainly a very garden variety movement. The term "regulator" implies a high grade (perhaps chronometer) movement which this most definitely is not. Not what I would expect to see in a UG. Badly pitted chrome plated case back. I would expect karat gold, or at least stainless steel on a UG. I'd be glad to see the dial when it is not behind that sad acrylic crystal. Maybe the lettering on the dial would show better. I'm on the fence with this one, sad to say.

 

Also you should return the watch to the watchmaker and let him know that the rehaut he added is covering half of the seconds track.

 

I just want to resurrect this thread because I found two more examples of this mysterious UG Regulator that are very similar. I don't think a crafty watchmaker would've put them together and sold fraudulently under the UG brand to make a quick buck. One gold and one SS case. Swiss Made on the caseback and UG signed crown.
Seems like one of their wackier endeavors..

 

Any serial numbers to date them, also the gold case back does it have the gold hall mark?

 

No serial #s - only SWISS MADE on the back of case and no photo of the inside caseback..
The seller claims it's circa 1960 and the for sale ad can be found here:https://www.orologiedintorni.com/us/universal-geneve-regulateur.html
"UNIVERSAL GENEVE REGULATEUR 18K YELLOW GOLD "Universal Genève, Ancre 15 Rubis, Antimagnetic, Swiss made" Made ca. 1960. Very rare, manual winding, 18k Yellow Gold wristwatch, silver dial, original Universal Geneve brown leather strap with button pin closure."

I have no affiliation with them- but if I get some time later I'll email them asking how they know it was made in 1960.

 

Will be honest here... there is nothing Universal about this piece. Design-wise this does not resonate with anything UG was producing in the 60s and even if it was earlier there should at least be some UG stamps on and inside the caseback. The dial seems redone as this is not Universal font. the movement is not signed either. Overall there is nothing legit about the piece and seems impossible to justify it's legit provenance. Furthermore I have thoroughly checked archives and have never come across a manufacture Universal regulator. There seem to be multiple around though which raises the doubt if these were possibly made on special request or if all franken. Am curious as to what you find out.

 

Any regulator UG in Sala book ?

 

Lucas,

I guess you are rigth. All UG watches have a serial and production number plus signature. So missing both is more than uncommon.
I dont think they are franken watches. I guess someone made a batch of these. Found mine in Italy as the gold one offered for sale. So maybe a creative italian watchmaker had to much time, movements and dials... Or just some UG prototypes that never found their way to regular production? Sounds not very reasonable for me, but I don't have any idea how UG developed new models back than...

I didn't payed much for mine, so I enjoy wearing it as the dial design of regulator watches is great looking imho.
But 2k € is far to much for it!

 

Ok I received responses from both Italian dealers
From the SS dealer:

Dear Mr. Jumpingsecond,

Yes Sir it is brand new and inside the case it has its serial number 860100 that it is from the 1960.
On top the model regulateur is from the 1960's
thank you.

Best Regards,


From the Gold Dealer:
Dear customer,

I am Alessandro Giannotti the Sales Manager by Orologi & Dintorni, thank you for your interest in our watch, the watch is available in prompt delivery, about your question, we haven't the original papers but this movement type has been used by Universal Geneve in their watches in the 60'
Should you have any questions feel free to ask.
Greetings from Pisa - Tuscany (Italy)

So what's the consensus from our UG forensics team here? Were these dealers duped by some crafty watchmaker into buying fugazi UGs?
@valjoux72 's chrome one in the beginning of this thread seems older/more aged then these 2 here.

 

860100 is probably the reference number rather than the serial. Other than that, I haven't the foggiest I'm afraid. Sorry