Hey gang,

I don't know if this is an appropriate question to ask, however, this forum is extremely helpful. Now that I am learning more about What Omega I want, what it should have, etc. But now my question is what do I pay? I want a 60s Seamaster DeVille automatic, Gold or SS with Gold cap, date window and crosshairs (which increases cost, I think). How much is a good or fair price? Any thoughts would be great.

 

First, crosshair dials aren't the norm so that might be the one hitch in your search. The rest is easy. The date versions have 56x series calibers inside - durable and solid performers. Gold capped models can run anywhere from $300 to $700 depending on condition, and solid gold (usually 14ct since the SMDV was a US market line) will start at $800 on up to $1400-ish again depending on condition.

 

Dennis, Thanks so much for the figures. Was certainly hoping you would chime in here. You described exactly what I am looking for, a durable and solid performer. I know the crosshairs ups the challenge a bit, however, since SM Deville's are uncommon I figure this one feature should provide a nice added challenge in my hunt. Are the gold caps plated or solid? Also, would you recommend the gold as offered a better long term value? Thanks. Any other thoughts or recommendations on places to hunt are welcome from all!

 

Gold capping is a thick layer - 200 to 300 microns and usually about 240 for Omega. In comparison, gold plating is anywhere from 10 to 80 microns - usually 20 for Omega but 40 on a few cases.

I like solid gold for one reason: if the bottom drops out of the vintage watch market (see baseball cards, postage stamps, Beanie Babies, etc.) you still have the value of the scrap gold.

ps - very few Seamaster DeVilles are uncommon. On any given day you can find at least a half dozen correct ones on eBay, and more if you count the frankens and redials.

 

Dennis, My apologies for my miss-type. I meant to say Devilles are NOT uncommon. That is why I think hunting down a legit (I know there are lots of redials) could make it interesting. I too had the very same thought with regards to a gold watch. However, at the same time, i have to ask myself if I would ever truely scrap a watch I love just b/c the market bottomed out? On the other hand, I have always, for some reason, been attracted to the concept that if I ever got stranded with very little on me, I could get good money out of a gold watch, even if the buyer didn't care that it was an omega. That's good to know about the thickness of the gold cap. I don't like when I see gold worn off. I have been curious if a gold model would be more durable than SS, as gold doesn't corrode, and SS can still corrode.

 

There's a saying that goes "There aren't many situations a gold Rolex can't get you out of" and it's probably a little true about other well known name brands, if even just for the scrap value. I'm certainly not endorsing melting watches for any reason, but if push came to shove (grave illness or another dire situation) than you gotta do what you gotta do.

While we're on the subject, did anyone see the end of The Bourne Legacy? Love the quick shot of the 18ct Daytona on the Filipino captain's wrist.

 

Dennis, you can pull your pants up now I think he's done...

(Did I take that too far...no, no don't think I did)

 

your welcome to try anytime, I'm easy to find here in Chicago. Your such a NY boy.

 

I grew up in NY, knew lots of guys like you..lots of talk and no walk...put your guns away,wrong place and wrong time.

 

Alright, that's enough.

Move along. Nothing to see here.

 

There are some omegas with 80microjs - my TDMP.

Also, I can attest to bottoms dropping out of markets. I used to collect phonecards. Paid way over face value, now not even worth the plastic they were printed on.

 

Think Phonecards was for the pictures.
Only had one phone in the Northern Territory then so will let CanberraOmega explain