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What is the watchmaker's watch?

  1. conorwrichards Jul 4, 2017

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    Hi all,

    Came across some watch-repair photos last night; I then read the comments, which were by watchmakers and were interestingly technical. Made me wonder what do the watchmakers look at and think "that's a great watch." They surely see quite different things that someone like myself, who's interested in watches but without any training.

    So, if there are some watchmakers on here, I'd be really interested to hear what you think are some great watches, and why they are great. (Personally, I'm interested in relatively affordable watches -- i.e. sub-10k rather than the Langes, Pateks).

    Of course, I'd be really interested to hear from any/all forum members, given that so many are so knowledgeable; so pardon my plea so the trained watchmakers :)

    Thanks as always,
    Con
     
  2. Wibbles Jul 4, 2017

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    Down the years I've heard that Jaeger LeCoultre described as the "watchmakers watch". I don't know how true that is though.
     
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  3. tyrantlizardrex Jul 4, 2017

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    Tony at Swiss Time Services and Simon Freese both wear Omega Marine Chronometers... I've met a few RSC people who wear Oyster Quartz.

    Always find it interesting that some of the people who work on watches all day have no problem with High End Quartz... but a lot of watch collectors do...
     
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  4. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Jul 4, 2017

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    Dufour wears a Lange Datograph, and Roger Smith wears a Cal 321 Seamaster among other things.
     
  5. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Jul 4, 2017

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    On another point of view, somebody mentioned that the Hamilton 992B was "the watchmaker's watch" due to its design and ease of servicing.

    I think it was the Pocket Watch Collector (@Canuck) that said it.

    I'd have to agree, even with my limited experience.
     
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  6. sjg22 Jul 4, 2017

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    I've heard Jaeger as well. Anecdotal, but this is from an article here: https://www.google.ca/amp/www.gq.co...ging-master-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar/amp

     
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  7. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jul 4, 2017

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    The idea of "the watchmaker's watch" is a collector myth. There is no one universally accepted watch/brand that is "the" watchmaker's watch.

    Having been in many classrooms with hundreds of other watchmakers at brand training, talked with more at conventions, etc. over the years, it ranges from no watch at all, to junky quartz, to pretty much any brand you can think of. In many cases it depends on what brand the watchmaker is most associated with - if you work for an AD that sells Rolex and you spend all your days repairing Rolex, you will likely be wearing a Rolex. Not because it's the "watchmaker's watch" but because you likely got a discount on it, and you could service it in your sleep, so it's a logical choice.

    Also, the more you see something, the more you grow to like it...watchmakers are people too and we all have our own tastes.

    Before becoming a watchmaker and servicing a lot of them, I didn't own an Omega - it was a brand I mostly passed by before that...

    Cheers, Al
     
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  8. tyrantlizardrex Jul 4, 2017

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    Don't listen to the man behind the curtain! ;)
     
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  9. sjg22 Jul 4, 2017

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    Al, what is your everyday watch? I.e. What is the Omega Forum's watchmakers' watch?
     
  10. Canuck Jul 4, 2017

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    I think the 992B was called the "watchmaker's watch" because it was a major breakthrough in ease of servicing, compared to earlier high performance railroad standard watches. Not necessarily that it was "the" watch that watchmakers preferred, and wore. I have seven of them, and I almost never wear them. While I do collect pocket watches, I have more wrist watches in my collection. And for daily wear, it is always a wrist watch, and only occasionally one of my Rolexes. Today, it is a 65 year old generic bumper automatic in a chrome case which I resurrected from a bin of scrap watches. Why? Because it interested me. (But I do like Rolex and Omega).

    Last I checked, my 65 year old date at 6:00 Omega bumper cal. 355 (shown many times on WRUW) has the calendar set at the 6th. Right now, it langours in the vault. It might well be on my wrist, sometime on Thursday.
     
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  11. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jul 4, 2017

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    I knew I would be challenged on that assertion. :)

    One of these usually...

    [​IMG]

    Today specifically it's the Tudor Sub...
     
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  12. jumpingsecond Jul 4, 2017

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    Last time I saw Dimitrie Vicovanu the fabled old watchmaker in jewelry district nyc he was wearing a very simple gold omega geneve circa late 60s. The simplest watch you could imagine.
     
  13. Tony C. Ωf Jury member Jul 4, 2017

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    Stradivarius mainly played a cheap, old Lyre. :rolleyes:
     
  14. Mad Dog rockpaperscissorschampion Jul 4, 2017

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    It's a good flyin' watch too! :thumbsup:

    IMG_0702.JPG

    IMG_0704.JPG
     
  15. dplawiuk Jul 4, 2017

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    Beautiful collection!
    Interesting to see a Nomos in there. Any thoughts positive or negative on their movements? Have you serviced one yet?
     
  16. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jul 4, 2017

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    It's a simple Tangente with the manual wind Alpha movement, so it's a simple watch. I haven't service it yet, and I don't get a lot of people asking me to service these for some reason. I checked with Nomos before I bought this one and the Tetra for my wife, and they will sell parts to independent watchmakers, so that's a bonus if you want someone local to do it.

    I would guess the closest thing I've serviced is a Stowa Antea, with the ETA 7001...no issues with that one, and I don't expect any with the Nomos. BTW sine someone brought up Mr. Dufour earlier in this thread, when he was asked what brand to look at that is reasonably priced, he picked Nomos.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  17. dplawiuk Jul 4, 2017

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    Well you're the man I'll look up when it's time for my Ludwig's first service :)

    Maybe not many requests just because they're such a new company, and specifically new to the Canadian market? Can't imagine many have hit the 5 year mark yet, and hopefully that's a good indication of quality that you haven't seen service requests on them this early on.
     
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