What are your top ranking factors for a vintage purchase?

[smorrisonmd]

STANDY

Condition
Condition
Condition

Price - I have happily overpaid for a excellent example (which has payed off)

Seller - Have walked away from many due to the vibe

Resale - effort I have put into finding the best example possible I am usually well aware of what a watch is worth so never worry about resale.

If it paid off, then you didn't overpay

 

[gbesq]

Is @MtV selling it? If so, I will buy it. Other than that, condition, condition and condition.

 

[DaveK]

BrokenSkunk

I have to fall in love with it.
It has to be fairly priced.
It has to be original condition, no redials or polishes.
It has to have minimal patina, as close to mint condition as possible.
1950's to 1970's preferred.
Not modern quartz - early quartz is OK.
Obscure tech, e.g. a hummer, electric watch, autolub.

I used to acquire anything that took my fancy. Now I've decided to be more selective. A new watch has either got to be a stunner, or a cheap bit of fun. I've too much mid-priced (£200 to £500) mediocrity in my collection, I don't need more.

What’s autolub?

 

[sheepdoll]

A fidget spinner. AKA plastic watch popularized by Tissot. In some ways a proto Swatch from the 1970s.

 

[PatinaPete]

I realized last night after I typed up the post that what I was thinking with Accuracy isn't functional accuracy that could be improved as DrSpock pointed out, but that the watch is capable of high accuracy, ie it's a chronometer or cosc and then can actually be adjusted to deliver. I am trying to frame that in my world, a "fine timepiece" is one that is designed and can deliver accurate timekeeping. regardless of age.

 

[G-Web]

Charisma.
Character.
Charm.

Sure, condition is certainly a factor. But I want to look at my wrist and think, "what a beautiful watch!"
For me personally, that gut reaction comes less from condition, and more from an ineffable mix of fades, colors, contrasts, and patina. I get more joy from my old watches looking old (in a subjectively good way) than I do from them looking brand new.
Crazy, I know. But hey, ya like what ya like.

Cheers,
-GW

 

[Speed2Sea]

1) Historical Significance (e.g. Omega Mooon Watch, Cartier Santos, etc)

2) Quality

3) Price/Availability

 

[lindo]

Condition
Price
Seller's country

 

[BrokenSkunk]

smorrisonmd

All things mentioned so far are important factors in the purchase, and subject to personal preference. But ultimately, the MOST important factor in ANY purchase of ANYTHING is PRICE. You might of course be willing to pay more for something because any of these, say condition ( I wouldn't consider that "overpaying"), but there IS a limit to how high you will go.
Example: A NOS but otherwise "generic" steel Connie Pie Pan. In average condition you might pay $1000, but for NOS maybe you would pony up $3000, or even $5000. But would you pay $100,000? Of course not.

I disagree.
A sellers tatty, knackered frankenwatch of any brand is of no interest to me whether it is £100,000 or £1.
First the watch must be desirable, then after this it must be affordable, then it must be fairly priced.

If I do not find a watch desirable, I do not care about the price.

 

[BrokenSkunk]

DaveK

What’s autolub?

Wot @sheepdoll said. Its also known as an Astrolon or a SYTAL. Info here:
https://www.watchonista.com/articles/sistem-51-missing-link-forty-years-ago

Other "obscure" movments I have are Beta-21 (Omega cal 1300), ETA 916x (Omega cal 1250/1260), Omega 1310, Bulova Accutrons, Hamilton 505.
They're not rare, just differrent.
Missing from my collection is a Omega cal 1511...

 

[DaveK]

BrokenSkunk

Wot @sheepdoll said. Its also known as an Astrolon or a SYTAL. Info here:
https://www.watchonista.com/articles/sistem-51-missing-link-forty-years-ago

Other "obscure" movments I have are Beta-21 (Omega cal 1300), ETA 916x (Omega cal 1250/1260), Omega 1310, Bulova Accutrons, Hamilton 505.
They're not rare, just differrent.
Missing from my collection is a Omega cal 1511...

Interesting, thanks for the info

 

[smorrisonmd]

BrokenSkunk

I disagree.
A sellers tatty, knackered frankenwatch of any brand is of no interest to me whether it is £100,000 or £1.
First the watch must be desirable, then after this it must be affordable, then it must be fairly priced.

If I do not find a watch desirable, I do not care about the price.

So if you were offered a watch for $1 which you find undesirable, but which routinely sells for $5k on eBay, you would pass??
Even if true in deciding you DON'T want to buy a watch, in deciding TO buy a watch, price is still the final determinant. No matter how desirable the watch (or anything else) is, there is a price above which you are not willing to pay.

 

[sheepdoll]

BrokenSkunk

I disagree.
A sellers tatty, knackered frankenwatch of any brand is of no interest to me whether it is £100,000 or £1.
First the watch must be desirable, then after this it must be affordable, then it must be fairly priced.

If I do not find a watch desirable, I do not care about the price.

Good! that makes more frankenwatches for me. As long as they are made from mostly genuine parts and have a decent looking dial.

What I find strange is these can often be offered for more than completely genuine watches.

Again condition is the rule here.

Price comes second. I am cheap and have little cash flow. The thing is that such watches do not come cheap. Especially if there are problems with the escapement. In this era time is not always free.

 

[kingsrider]

When I first got into collecting, I tended to buy what I felt was desirable and affordable. Of course brand and condition were important but I placed more importance on what I thought I would enjoy on the wrist. I learned much in the first couple of years and fortunately my choices and my ability to build a little sweat equity paid off very well. It turned out that most of the watches I thought I would like, did not appeal to me in person. But, my ability to source parts, straps and refurbish these watches cosmetically, made them profitable when resold. Those profits were, in turn, reinvested into higher end watches and the cycle continued.
When Omega stopped making parts available to vendors, my system became obsolete. Coupled with competition and a lack of time to invest in our hobby I have stopped buying. It was a really good run.

PS
A coworker came to me with a picture of a Rolex GMT 1675 that a friend had inherited and is thinking of selling. Sweaty and full of cheese but with pumpkin colored lume.
OOOOOhhhh NOOOoooo!!!!

Edited: Aug 16, 2024

 

[jjen]

Nowadays I highly value having tried the watch on. Maybe it’s that I’ve tried on a tired old example and I find a better one on the internet. But having it on the wrist is important. I’ve gotten burned during the pandemic buying watches based on internet pictures only. I am glad to be doing in person events again

 

[BrokenSkunk]

smorrisonmd

So if you were offered a watch for $1 which you find undesirable, but which routinely sells for $5k on eBay, you would pass??

Yes.
I would not buy a watch for my collection if I didn't like it.

smorrisonmd

Even if true in deciding you DON'T want to buy a watch, in deciding TO buy a watch, price is still the final determinant. No matter how desirable the watch (or anything else) is, there is a price above which you are not willing to pay.

As I said in my original post, a watch must be fairly priced. If I feel something is overpriced, I won't buy. I'll just wait, another one will come along eventually.
Without wishing to brag, given that I only come across watches that tick all my other boxes about once or twice a year, I am very fortunate in that I'm comfortably able to afford this hobby.

 

[ollipekka]

Cool design
Condition
Fits my collection
Price

 

[khangct]

For me personally, top priority would be authenticity.

 

[drpaul]

The story
Rest every thing depends on the story right?