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Exam results 2017! Watchmaking with the BHI

  1. ChrisN Apr 23, 2016

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    Well, I've tinkered with watches for a few years now and am interested in moving to a professional level. I know there are various people on here who like the thought of taking Watchmaking courses and moving into the business so thought it might be interesting to post my experiences here. This is all new for me and has only come about in the last month but if I don't tell the tale as I go, I never will. I've been in discussions with Al about this as a truly independent view is very useful. As usual, a huge thanks to him for our chats so far and all those ongoing:thumbsup::thumbsup:

    I looked around and to be honest, if you want to do a course (mostly at a distance) leading to a qualification, then in Europe, the BHI (British Horological Institute) seems to be the way to go. They have a bit of a reputation as clock people which may have some truth but, they do offer specific watch courses. Their website is not easy to navigate but all the info is there.

    There are three levels to aim for, all leading to a specific "accredited" qualification following the exams:

    1. Diploma in Clock and Watch Servicing you qualify for employment as a technician, who undertakes basic servicing of clocks and quartz watches.
    2. Diploma in the Servicing and Repair of Watches you qualify for employment as a skilled watchmaker, who services mechanical watches for which interchangeable part are available.
    This gets you MBHI after your name, a Member of the BHI.
    3. Diploma in the Repair, Restoration and Conservation of Watches you qualify for employment as a watch
    conservator or restorer, who works on watches that need some new or modified parts.
    This gets you FBHI after your name, a Fellow of the BHI.

    This seems to make sense and the second one (Intermediate) is the one that interests me at the moment but, I can upgrade to the third later or make the decision at any time to switch to the third grade. You are not commited to any particular route and don't have to sit the exams either- I think some people just work through the course and hang a Watchmaker sign outside the door.

    I think these are practical outcomes and this is how they say you can prepare for the exams:
    a. By being employed in the horological industry
    b. By studying for a BA in Horology at Birmingham City University (BCU)
    c. By studying at the British School of Watchmaking (BSoW)
    d. By studying the BHI Distance Learning Courses (DLCs) and attending in house short courses.

    OK, so it's the last one for me;). That's all the preamble and then you get into the details. The DLC, Distance Learning Courses, are intended to lead you to these exams with the on site short courses.

    They expect the Intermediate Diploma to require 1360 hours of study/practical work plus the exams which are these nine units (there are two extra units for the Final diploma but I'm concentrating on the Intermediate at the moment). These are the 'Watch pathway' units as the 'Clock pathway' has different ones (who cares about those on a watch forum...).

    Unit D1: Theory of Clock and Watch Servicing
    Examination Method: Written paper
    During a 2.5-hour theory exam at an Examination Centre you answer questions about clock servicing, watch servicing, escapements and workshop processes.
    Unit D4: Servicing and Correcting Faults in a Quartz Watch
    Examination Method: Servicing test
    During a 6-hour servicing test at an Examination Centre you service a quartz watch with introduced faults.
    Unit D5: Constructing Clock and Watch Components
    Examination Method: Making a practical test piece
    During a period of three weeks you make a test piece (small cock and plate with a squared arbor) using your own workshop.
    Unit D6: Drawing Clock/Watch Escapements
    Examination Method: Written paper
    This unit consists of a course work drawing that has to be handed in by a pre-set date and a 3-hour drawing examination at an Examination Centre.
    Unit D14: The Practical Servicing of Quartz and Mechanical Watches
    Examination Method: Completing a record of repairs
    You prepare a record of repairs with specified repair processes giving details of ten watches that you have serviced, including four quartz and six mechanical movements. At least five of the movements should be cased.
    Unit D15: Servicing and Correcting Faults in a Manual Winding Watch Movement
    Examination Method: Servicing test
    During a 7-hour test at an Examination Centre you service and correct a manual winding watch movement with introduced faults. You will get a spares box.
    Unit D16: Servicing and Correcting Faults in an Automatic Watch
    Examination Method: Servicing test
    During an 8-hour servicing test at an Examination Centre you service and correct an automatic watch with introduced faults. You will get a spares box.
    Unit D17: The Practical Servicing of Complex Watches
    Examination Method: Completing a record of repairs
    You prepare a record of repairs with specified repair processes giving details of fifteen watches that you have serviced, including two complex quartz watches, four automatic watches, five mechanical watches smaller than 7¾ ligne, and a chronograph. At least five of the movements should be cased.
    Unit D18: The Theory of Complex Watches and their Repair, Restoration and Conservation
    Examination Method: Written paper
    This is a 2.5-hour theory exam at an Examination Centre.

    Out of interest, the first diploma listed above has just D1 and D4 plus a unit similar to D5 but simpler so, it really is just for simple quartz watches. You don't need to start with that diploma so I've gone for the one that interests me. The only issue with not getting the DLC for that diploma is that you don't get the notes for D1. There are supplied syllabi and past papers for all the units and D1 is the simpler of the two theory units and is not that complicated.

    Plan of attack

    1. Get the DLC notes - to do this you join the BHI and pay for the notes. You can add technical support from them but it's only for the theory side and that's not the aspect I need so, I opted out. I have the notes now and am looking through them. Do the studying...
    2. Attend the short courses that cover each unit, plus any additional you want to do. These are typically one week residential courses at the BHI base. I've signed up for my first one in June and will add (hopefully) a further three this year and others next year.
    3. Do the practise and work for those parts that you do in your own workshop. Major investment in workshop and tools to do this in the way I want to but, you could do it far cheaper than I will.
    4. Sit the first block of exams in May 2017.
    5. Sit the second block of exams in May 2018.

    All of the above is a bit dry but it might get more interesting as I work through the various parts of the DLC and attend the short courses. Might post a bit more this weekend about the first short course and which exams you sit each year.

    Cheers, Chris
     
  2. Stewart H Honorary NJ Resident Apr 23, 2016

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    Fantastic move Chris.

    Perhaps Trev and Ash will give you your own section to blog your progress.

    Either way, I look forward to reading about your adventure. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
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  3. gostang9 Apr 23, 2016

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    Congrats on your decision and all the best on your journey! I enjoyed reading the details you shared so far and look forward to more documented evidence and specifics as you continue. I have the utmost respect for the watchmaker craft and reading of your journey gives at least a small glimpse into this world!
     
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  4. JimInOz Melbourne Australia Apr 23, 2016

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    :thumbsup:

    Ditto.

    It would be good if Rob @Horlogerie could give you some mentoring as well if he has the time.
     
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  5. ChrisN Apr 23, 2016

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    Thanks for the encouragement Guys:thumbsup: It's certainly going to be interesting.

    This is what you get for the DLC, two thick A4 binders and a book which I'll delve into little by little. Really, the Intermediate grade is just the left hand binder.
    DLC.jpg

    Like I said, I'm missing the part for D1. All of the syllabi are available for each unit as well as sample papers here. Anyway, that's 200+ pages so to explain why I think the D1 is passable by reading around the subject without a structured course, here is a sample page of the exam from that link, worth 20% of the marks. I've chosen the easiest page and it's also the one most watch based.
    D1 questions.jpg
    If you don't have any background in this, the clue to the last question is in the relative rotations of the centre arbor and 4th. If you have a sub second watch, likely it is because if this.;)

    Cheers, Chris
     
  6. TNTwatch Apr 23, 2016

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    Thanks for documenting the process!

    Why did they call the teeth wheel? ;)

    Would be interesting to know what else is required for you to get the MBHI, since you've already been able to tackle the DD sandwich. Does it require removing and replacing the balance staff?
     
  7. ChrisN Apr 23, 2016

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    I still sometimes say gears and endfloat (not Endshake) as it crosses over with my current job:rolleyes:

    There are a few things I'll get to but when they say the diploma enabled you to "qualify for employment as a skilled watchmaker, who services mechanical watches for which interchangeable part are available" that does include staff changing. That's a big one for me, at least in my mind, as I've never tried it and to do it properly, you use a lathe. I've never used a Watchmakers lathe and I can't believe my training in a machine shop lathe from 40 years ago will help much. If you go to the Final Diploma it must include fabricating staffs.

    There's a few more things like repositioning the pallet stones that I've never done so lots of new stuff to learn. Then there's a lot of consolidation of what I consider I know as well as good practises. In addition, I've never done quartz watches troubleshooting so that's new.

    First course is the primer for:
    D15: Servicing and Correcting Faults in a Manual Winding Watch Movement

    Will write some stuff about that soon. Looks interesting.

    Cheers, Chris
     
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  8. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Apr 23, 2016

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    It takes a while...I still sometimes refer to wheels as gears, because that IS what they are, but anyway...:)

    For endfloat (endplay here in North America) and me coming from a bearing background this one was tougher, since we talk about endplay all the time. Now that I use the term end shake pretty much all the time, someone recently told me that term is going out of favour. New term is "freedom" so be prepared to be flexible on what term you use depending on who you are talking to.

    The age of the person, where they learned watchmaking, and to some extent what brands they work on regularly will often influence what terms they use. For example "set bridge" v "setting lever jumper"...and so on...

    :thumbsup:
     
  9. ChrisN Apr 24, 2016

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    A flurry of activity this weekend as I'm working out how all of this works and sharing here. There is a specific recommended exam route:

    May 2017
    Unit D1: Theory of Clock and Watch Servicing
    Unit D4: Servicing and Correcting Faults in a Quartz Watch
    Unit D5: Constructing Clock and Watch Components
    Unit D6: Drawing Clock/Watch Escapements
    Unit D14: The Practical Servicing of Quartz and Mechanical Watches
    Unit D15: Servicing and Correcting Faults in a Manual Winding Watch Movement

    May 2018:
    Unit D16: Servicing and Correcting Faults in an Automatic Watch
    Unit D17: The Practical Servicing of Complex Watches
    Unit D18: The Theory of Complex Watches and their Repair, Restoration and Conservation


    If you're not UK based, you can sit D1, D4, D6, D15 with a local invigilator but as they're all in about a week, I will go to UK. Always useful to meet other like minded people and for me, the cost is not huge from Spain.
    D16 and D18 must be done on site in UK but they are in the same week.
    D5, D14 and D17 are done in your own workshop and sent in.

    It is very well set up for wherever you are as you don't need to spend too much time in UK if you don't want to. In theory, you don't need the short courses if you can get the knowledge locally so you could do the whole course with just one trip to UK. I'm lucky that it's not far for me.

    So, first short course for me is the one preparing for unit D15. It's in 8 weeks time so there should be enough opportunity to go through the notes. I suspect this will be based on an ETA 6497 but, we'll see. You stay on site and there are six pupils with one instructor so in the evenings, there will hopefully be the opportunity to share thoughts.

    Basic mechanical.jpg

    I'm looking forward to this although to get to dynamic poising in five days seems ambitious so am expecting it to be intense. I suppose it depends on everyone's individual levels before the course.

    Will post some details of the syllabus for D15 and how the DLC relates later this week.

    Cheers, Chris
     
    Edited Apr 27, 2016
  10. ChrisN Apr 27, 2016

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    Some details of unit D15 are as follows: I’ve snipped a lot of it as it’s a few pages long and just kept the major technical learning objectives titles in some cases - I doubt anyone here except me is interested in the H&S aspects, for example:

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    SYLLABUS D15: SERVICING AND CORRECTING FAULTS IN A MANUAL WINDING WATCH MOVEMENT

    This unit is assessed by means of a seven-hour servicing test at an examination centre.
    The candidate is provided with a mechanical winding watch. Faults have been introduced into the movement. Replacement components are provided for the candidate’s use when servicing the watch movement.
    The candidate is allocated seven hours on one day to analyse the faults, dismantle, correct faults, clean, re-assemble, lubricate and test the watch movement.

    Learning objectives (LO)

    LO1: Understand health and safety procedures for the servicing of mechanical watches

    LO2: Be able to assess the condition of a manual winding watch movement
    2.1 Assess the overall condition of movement
    2.2 Assess the general functioning of an assembled manual winding manual movement
    a. Demagnetize manual winding watch movement
    b. Escapement action, using calibrated test equipment: Rate; Beat; Amplitude.
    c. Balance and spring: Flatness; Centralization; Balance staff.
    d. Motive force: Power to the escapement; Mainspring; Click work.
    e. Motion work: Cannon pinion tightness.

    LO3: Be able to dismantle a manual winding watch movement

    LO4: Be able to identify and correct defects in a manual winding watch movement
    4.1 Assess visually the condition of movement components during the dismantling process and after dismantling.
    4.2 Correct defects:
    a. By replacement
    b. By adjustment:
    i. Lever escapement - Horn shake; Guard pin shake; Locking; Run to the banking.
    ii. Friction jewels – endshake
    iii. Cannon pinion tightness.

    LO5: Be able to clean components for a manual winding watch
    5.1 Determine a suitable approach for cleaning
    5.2 Implement the approach for cleaning

    LO6: Be able to reassemble and lubricate a manual winding watch movement
    6.1 Assess the components to ensure that they are in a suitable condition for replacement.
    6.2 Use appropriate tools and techniques to re-assemble and lubricate components according to approved procedures in the sequence recommended by the manufacturer/good practice.

    LO7: Be able to adjust a manual winding watch movement
    7.1 Ensure correct alignment of hands.
    7.2 Ensure correct date operation.
    7.3 Use calibrated test equipment to verify the manual winding watch movement operates to manufacturer’s specification - Rate; Beat; Amplitude.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

    More or less, these are the basics of what your Watchmaker should do on every watch. He might do more depending on what's wrong with it and he might not make any adjustments at all. The unit might be done with an ETA 6497 or 6498 (although they do mention date operation). That would be nice as they're a big calibre and so easier to work on. Here's an ETA 6498 I built last year with generic dial, hands and case along with some Omega content;).

    6498 and chronostop small.jpg

    You can see there's a lot of dial relative to the Chronostop, which is the bigger model. I don't believe the small second is regarded as a complication (the clue above about the fourth wheel gives an idea where this hand is pressed on) so, this is as simple as they come. The Chronostop has a complication being a chronograph and something like a 561 Constellation with date has three: centre seconds; date; auto mechanism. A 1040 has a fair few but I think a minute repeater watch has the most.

    Some of the LOs relate to assessments and passing those back to the customer following the BHI codes of practise. I could do the 6498 again to set these procedures up but, I might have a 354 bumper with 2 complications, centre seconds and auto, coming in so am very tempted to use that.

    Cheers, Chris
     
  11. ChrisN Apr 30, 2016

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    Here is my first stab at setting up a procedure following the BHI codes of practise. This might seem a drag when you want to get to the bench but I think this is very useful for me as it focuses the mind.

    The watch is the SM Bumper I just bought, here.

    Basically, you're asessing the watch, work required and agreeing that. Like I say it's draft but I needed to make a quick template and go from there.

    First sheet is asessing the watch as received. Customer 000 is me;) and this is the first job for me... Need to check some calibre data.
    000-01-sheet 1.jpg
    This goes with the following 8 pictures as there is no timing check. All of these are small to save some bandwidth.
    000-01-01.jpg
    000-01-02.jpg
    000-01-03.jpg
    000-01-04.jpg
    000-01-05.jpg
    000-01-06.jpg
    000-01-07.jpg
    000-01-08.jpg

    The idea here is to acknowledge receipt, make the general asessment and then agree the basic work.
     
  12. ChrisN Apr 30, 2016

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    Second sheet, items 1 to 4 are the estimate for the work which then gets agreed. I'm doing a special deal for this guy but it's still going to cost!
    000-01-sheet 2.jpg

    Then, 20 minutes in, I get to the bench which eventually gives item 5 above. See next post.
     
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  13. ChrisN Apr 30, 2016

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    I forgot to make a template to use during teardown so am using the one I had for the build part. This only has three pictures.
    000-01-sheet 3.jpg

    000-01-10.jpg
    000-01-11.jpg
    000-01-12.jpg

    The last one shows all the parts (and many bits of dirt) before cleaning. I think this one is useful so people can see how much you strip.

    It is pretty clear from the second to last picture why the watch didn't run.... And in the last picture, it was never going to run for too long....

    It was never going to be acceptable to me anyway as the third wheel staff is not straight and the driving wheel on the top of it that runs the centre seconds is damaged. This is because someone has previously separated these with a pair of screwdrivers and not Presto tool 3:mad:. It was engaged and would probably be fine but turned like a 1920s bicycle wheel. It's a shame to not fix it properly and hence some extra items on the bill.

    There's a few interesting things here:

    1. You can't see the third or driving wheel - in the picture with the back removed in the first of these 3 posts, you can just about see it sticking out just above the crown wheel, the one with the 2 screws where the crown comes in. I could just put this back together and that's a call I have to make. This is a bit difficult sometimes but you set a standard and work to it. It's not a cheap watch so the extra is not huge.

    2. Getting parts for these very old bumpers is not easy and as Omega are now restricting them, it's only going to get harder. Al might chime in as to wether the crystal is available with a rose gold tension ring (probably PY5005) and if Omega still sell the third wheel. Cousins do have a gold ring crystal and the driving wheel - at least at the moment. I have sourced a still packaged third wheel from eBay.

    3. So, if I'm going to do this in earnest when the parts supplies dry up in a couple of years, I will need to aim high and get an Omega account. I can see why they are restricting these parts to try and get their approved network of Watchmakers to keep up the brand standards rather than just selling to anyone who might do a poor job. This seems like a good idea to me now.

    4. I will try to straighten that third wheel but have not had much success before - let's see if it's covered on my course.

    5. I don't like thar wear on the barrel bridge where the ratchet wheel sits. Barrel arbor and bridge were fine when dirty but there may be more to add to the bill later.

    Now there's a big delay while I wait on parts so, back to some reading. Then will get to sheet 4 and the rebuild.

    Cheers, Chris
     
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  14. ChrisN Apr 30, 2016

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    I've just learnt that if you're going to make an estimate, check everything. Here's that point number 5 above. Under a microscope, the barrel arbor looks damaged by poor handling so, just cleaned that and pegged the hole in the bridge. Now that it's got no gunk in there,
    is what you see. This is allowing the ratchet wheel to tilt and catch the bridge.

    Yes, there is also some wear on the crown wheel seat but that is not unusual.

    Now, I was really hoping I don't have to bush the bridge, which looks fine, and am lucky to have a spare 354 around with a perfectly good but old, arbor. Fitted that and there is correct sideshake so, off to Cousins and added a €40 arbor to the orde to fit to this watch.

    Cheers, Chris
     
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  15. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Apr 30, 2016

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    Hi Chris,

    Had a look for both case references you have listed, and no red or pink gold case options is shown. However that would be the part number if there was one shown. The third wheel is still available - 72203501240.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  16. ChrisN Apr 30, 2016

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    Thanks Al, was lucky to pick this up. Old packaging but should be OK. As I said above, that parts account makes all the difference.

    third wheel.jpg

    Enjoy the evening

    Chris
     
  17. ChrisN May 7, 2016

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    Still waiting for parts for my 354 so, thought I'd spend a little time practising something.

    In the short course next month, as you can see above, they mention dynamic poising. Now, that's pretty complicated and I've never done it but, one stage before that is static poising. I've done some of this but there's quite a lot of 'feel' to it. If the watch has large rate variations between different vertical positions then it's possible that the balance wheel is out of balance, which is called poise here as it would be a bit odd to talk of balancing the balance wheel (I suppose). This is similar to balancing a car wheel and tyre. Thought it would be a good idea to do a little practise beforehand to get the most out of the course if we get to that, rather than just going in cold.

    I've got an AS 1194 open at the moment which is a 1950s watch passed down to my wife (just realised, she's building her own collection now;)). It really is nothing special but I'm fixing it for her. In vertical positions it shows a mammoth 4 minute variation which is five or ten times what you'd be looking for.

    This little vice affair with ruby jaws is what I use to do the poising. Shown with a nice 34mm (ish) Seamaster for scale. Poor picture but, the idea is to place the spirit level on the jaws and level the jaws with the three adjustable feet. Wipe off the jaws with pith wood then remove the balance wheel from the balance spring and put it in on the tool so that the pivots rest on the jaws. Easy enough but remember the balance radius is about 5mm so it's all pretty small. Stroke the edge of the balance wheel with a brush hair so it starts rolling and watch how it runs, slows and stops.
    poising tool.jpg

    Here's the wheel straight out of the movement. Not the best video but you should get the idea.


    So, it slows, speeds up, slows and then oscillates until it eventually stops. I stopped filming before that but you can see it oscillating. What it should do is slow smoothly and stop without any oscillating. The heavy point of the wheel is at the bottom when it stops and you adjust the weight at that position by removing a little material, repeat the process and so on.

    Here, just before finishing and it's much smoother but there's still a slight rock back at the end.


    To be honest, this is just for a trial as a new balance complete with hairspring and fully set up by the factory is just $20 for this calibre. Bit different for an Omega though, for example, so a skill that's needed. There's quite a bit more to the balance wheel setup than I'm showing but it's interesting to see.

    Cheers, Chris
     
  18. lillatroll May 7, 2016

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    I don't have much of an idea of how these things work but I am enjoying reading your blog. How does the balance wheel end up being out of balance? Is it because of foreign objects getting in the movement or are there other reasons? Apologies if it is a stupid question
     
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  19. micampe May 7, 2016

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    I’m really enjoying these progress updates too.
     
  20. Bushido May 7, 2016

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    This has been very enjoyable to read and I look forward to all the updates. What are the time requirements for these various levels of recognized expertise? Thanks for taking us along on this journey with you and best wishes!