So there was a thread where watch jewels were discussed recently:

http://omegaforums.net/threads/is-this-the-right-movement.11079/

I knew I had seen a video before on the production of jewels, and I found the link this morning. This is a film made around the WWII era, and quite frankly I love these old films. Here is a link to the video:

https://archive.org/details/JewelBearings

It's over and hour long, and shows the production of jewels from the raw boule through to finished jewel, and includes a lot of details.

Having been a project engineer for a large bearing manufacturer for 23 years before becoming a full time watchmaker, these films are pure gold to me. I even recognize some of the machinery, because when I first started with my company way back, they were still using old cam driven machinery that was made in the WWII era. Not to make jewels, but bearings, and some of the processes used a very similar.

One thing to note is that the jewels being made here are of a shape that is really no longer made. These are "bezel set" or also known as "rubbed in" jewels. Modern watches using friction fit jewels, so the shape of the outer diameter of the jewel is different than what you see here. Friction fit jewels are much easier to work with when changing a jewel, and the old style jewels used here have not been made since the 50's, and are getting very hard to find. One reason I hesitate taking on any American pocket watch from this time period, as many have cracked of broken jewels, and those jewels are difficult to find.

So enjoy!

Cheers, Al

PS - accidentally hit the post key before I finished the title - dammit! Should read Watch Jewels - How it's Made 40's Style...

 

Fixed.

 

Al,
Have you ever come across the blue/purple friction fit jewels--not the discolored or washed out red ones, but actually blue?

Edit: I saw the blue one in the Zenith pocket watch that you posted, but it looked like a one-off. How about a whole movement outfitted in blue or a material tin with only the blue ones?

I read an interview a while back with Roland Murphy of RGM. Amongst his most prized possessions was a small material box of blue jewels. He said that he'd never seen anything like 'em and that he was reserving them for when he had enough time/money to actually sit down and make himself a watch.

Cheers,
Byron

 

The American watch maker Howard (the later Keystone company) offered a top-of-the-line model called The Edward Howard.

<http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?68492-Edward-Howard-close-ups>

 

Thanks

 

Blue jewels are pretty rare in my experience, and I've never handled a watch that had blue jewels throughout like that Howard. Howard as a maker is not really that common, at least from my experience, as I tend to see many more Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton than Howards.

Tradition is ruby, so that is what most makers used.

Cheers, Al

 

Some of the old videos are the best!

Way back when I was first starting out and wanted to get my head around "how a mechanical watch works", I stumbled upon this gem.... an oldie, but a goodie!

 

Oops... meant to add that as a link

 

Cool! I'd be tempted to blue some of those screws.

 

Yes the old Jam Handy produced training films - those are great. The Hamilton one gets the basics across very well...sort of an early version of the "For Dummies" books.

Here is an earlier one, again from Elgin, showing the height of US watchmaking. The number of people working at these places is amazing. They even let the shifts out in a staggered manner to keep congestion down at the gates and outside the plant.

Enjoy!

Cheers, Al

 

Excellent. Many thanks for posting that video.

Chris.

 

Impressive. ANd we believe robots were just invented recently!.