I think it is time for a new watch and I can't decide between old or new? My last watch was a Nomos, Metro Datum Gangreserve. I love it and has become very quickly my goto watch. Time for a new one. I have been lusting after a speedmaster professional for years. I have decided to bite the bullet and buy. I am torn between an old or a new. My heart is telling me old, but I am so nervous of dodgy dealers, incorrect parts and finding out in years to come that it is incorrect. I am happy to pay, but so far fear has stopped me. Any advice

 

Dodgy dealers are not the norm here on OF. There are literally thousands of testimonials in aggregate about the good guys (non-gender specific). So, spend some time reading and learning, then make an informed choice.

 

So I have a few vintage watches. Not expensive ones, they are all under 1000, but special to me. I feel like you should go vintage on a speedmaster as it is a tool watch. It's meant to be worn and loved and used. The new apeedmasters are just to perfect to me.

Full disclosure I am scouring this forums as I trust the people and sellers here. I'm sure you've heard this before but your buying the seller and the watch. I'm too novice for eBay but I feel more comfortable here. Read speedmaster101.com. It helped me feel like I was at least going in the rift direction when looking for a speedmaster

 

Thanks, my heart is telling me vintage, now all I have to do is figure out, which one. happy job ahead!

 

I liked the piece of advice from @Spacefruit on the recent Time 4A Pint podcast where he said to just pick one and buy it (from a trusted seller) to start getting a hands-on feeling for what to look for in your "perfect" Speedmaster. I think the same principle applies for any vintage watch really, sometimes you just gotta dive into the pool to learn how to swim.

Maybe pick an easier to source vintage to start with and go from there until you find the one that is just right for you?

 

Ahem... https://www.time4apint.com/podcast/2017/4/7/the-time-4a-pint-podcast-episode-3




On a personal note, I don't have any vintage Speedmasters, but I do have a couple of modern ones.

@STANDY once told me that it's a lot of fun to "make your own vintage", which is true, it just takes time and patience.

Ultimately, you have to choose a watch that sings to you, on a personal level, and try not to buy too much into the idea of something being amazing just because others say so.

Having an idea of the budget you want to spend will help to narrow down options... and then the hunt begins!

 

Thanks adi4, I have a 1967 Omega Geneve that was my Grandfathers (probably my most valuable watch sentimentally) and a few some old Oris watches. so I am familiar. Hard to pull the trigger when you are talking 1000's vs 100's
This one looks pretty solid to me
http://chronocentric.com/forums/chronotrader/index.cgi?page=1;md=read;id=67183

 

Looks like you've already got a good basis to build off then, but my comment was more about collecting a specific model. I think there's some good baseline knowledge to use for all vintage watches, but some models have some idiosyncrasies that you have to watch out for. I know my way around vintage Grand Seiko's to a decent degree since I've owned a few, but I would still be careful to make a big purchase at the get-go when diving into Speedmasters or another brand/model.

In any case, I have no doubt the folks here can steer you in the right direction given the wealth of knowledge that exists here (as long as you're willing to contribute some back ). Good luck!

 

+1 this -- and keep in mind, the more you hang out here, the more you will get swept along because others' enthusiasm for the things they're pursuing is contagious -- or so I've found! -- and this is a board filled with "enablers"

 

As @tyrantlizardrex from https://www.time4apint.com/podcast/2017/4/7/the-time-4a-pint-podcast-episode-3 said above when I got the speedmaster bug a few years ago I done the research read the posts, blogs and the stories about the owners of speedmasters from new and made the vintage speedmasters. Was reading a story about someone's recent pick up and then the light bulb moment for me hit.
I wanted to be the guy that wore the watch for 25 years and made the vintage watch so many are buying now. I have worn my new speedmaster like it would have been worn by someone 50 years ago as a watch. Everytime I bump or knock it I smile and think I'm adding character and adding to the charm. In years to come it will be vintage but it will be my vintage watch.

I collect vintage 3 handed no date dress watches but I am making my own speedmaster vintage watch. The best of both worlds in my book

 

Thanks for that Standy, you have just made things difficult again! I must admit I am enjoying the vintage hunt. I guess for me that is a big part of the fun.

 

Your Nomos is lovely and I will have to something from them in the future. I'm also in a similar position, looking to purchase my first vintage speedie. Good luck on your quest!

 

That's cool oaclondon. I am veering toward a 145.022 ideally I would like the correct bezel but now am considering corr3ct service bezel to be okay?

 

Yeah why not, most important is knowing whats original and what has been replaced I think, which is reflected in price. My preference would be step dial, nice patina and original hands.

 

At the risk of stroking your ego, these podcasts are so much more relaxing and informative than the alternatives that you can find online (coughurbangentrycough) ... thanks or taking the time to put them together and keep up the good work.

 

I bought my first speedmaster, a 3570 from @Kringkily. Looking back I sorta wish I bought a 3590 with tritium as it ages and develops a nice patina. I think it's the perfect compromise between new and vintage

 

145.022 bezels are all the same except maybe for some of the really late ones in the mid 80's and the 69 transitional. There is no matching service bezel.

 

It's funny because I almost bought the same Nomos you have. Ultimately didn't because a Sinn ezm1 popped up. Then I fell in love with vintage military watches so I also have a Pontiac that was issued to the Belgian airforce as well as two Heuer Bunds. I still want a Nomos, a 105.012 66cb speedy pro, and a 1675gmt master but they don't speak to me to the degree that these vintage military ones do at the moment.

Follow yo heart as long as you enjoy what you get its worth it

 

It's great to walk into a store and buy a brand new watch but to choose a vintage watch and have to research it and chase it down becomes a cool part of your story. After you spend a little time chasing them down and finding that one you can't live without... it makes the watch a little extra special.
I think you have a made a great choice in a watch whether you choose new or vintage.
Best of luck on your decision and please post when you have bought your new addition.

 

For me, I like buying new. IMO, putting the miles on the watch by me feels so much more personal and satisfying then buying a watch in which someone has already done the leg work for you. Don't get me wrong, I love and admire a nice vintage piece but I don't think I would buy one. Plus I'm OCD so the image of a vintage piece that may of been dropped in a toilet during its life time doesn't sit well....