Vintage Omega C Shape Dial Identification Help

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Hi all,
Hoping to tap into the collective knowledge here on a dial color question for my Omega Constellation C-shape.
Specs:
• Reference: ST 168.029 (confirmed from the caseback stamping)
• Caliber: 751, 24 jewels
• Movement serial: 27650018, which by the standard Omega serial charts dates to roughly early-to-mid 1969
• Case: white gold fluted bezel, observatory-medallion caseback, unworn/sharp
• Dial layout: “Constellation / Automatic” on top half, “OMEGA / Chronometer / Officially Certified” on the bottom half, with a straight-leg “n” in the Constellation script rather than the earlier curly n

From what I understand this layout and font is the known “transitional” 168.029 dial from late in the reference’s run, more commonly associated with 168.057 dials. If that’s right, the movement date and dial style line up nicely.
What I can’t find any documentation on is the dial color itself. It’s a deep, quite dark blue - noticeably darker than the blue I’ve seen on later 168.0056/168.057 examples online. The color is completely even across the whole dial, no fading or discoloration toward the edges or markers, which makes me think this is the original factory finish rather than a black dial that’s shifted color with age.

Has anyone seen this darker blue specifically on a 168.029, or have any insight into whether Omega used a different blue formula on the transitional dials before the lighter blue associated with the later C-shape references? Trying to figure out if this is a known (if less common) factory variant or something else entirely.

Thank you

 
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It's a redial of the final variation of the 168.029 dial
Thanks for taking a look - genuinely appreciated. Would you mind sharing what specifically pointed you to that conclusion? I'd like to understand the reasoning.

A few things that would help me evaluate it:
  • Is it something in the font/print itself (letter shapes, spacing, edge crispness under magnification)?
  • Does the text alignment relative to the hour markers look off (the MOY check)?
  • Is it the dial finish/texture?
  • Or is it mainly the color, since that's the one thing I haven't been able to find documented anywhere myself?
 
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Hello everyone. I recently inherited a vintage Omega Seamaster - it keeps very good time and is quite nice can anyone tell me its value? Or simply educate me on it’s history?
I am looking to sell it but am wondering if its worth the hassle - here are some pics it was Grandfathers but we found it in our fathers dresser after he passed - I never saw dad wear it.
Thank you for any info you may have
Ian.

 
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Hello everyone. I recently inherited a vintage Omega Seamaster - it keeps very good time and is quite nice can anyone tell me its value? Or simply educate me on it’s history?
I am looking to sell it but am wondering if its worth the hassle - here are some pics it was Grandfathers but we found it in our fathers dresser after he passed - I never saw dad wear it.
Thank you for any info you may have
Ian.

You should start a new thread
 
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Hello everyone. I recently inherited a vintage Omega Seamaster - it keeps very good time and is quite nice can anyone tell me its value? Or simply educate me on it’s history?
I am looking to sell it but am wondering if its worth the hassle - here are some pics it was Grandfathers but we found it in our fathers dresser after he passed - I never saw dad wear it.
Thank you for any info you may have
Ian.

2577 are nice vintage reference common and popular. Yours has been redialed and is heavily polished which brings the value down a lot it’s basically worth value of parts. So you might best just keep it as nice heirloom Post new thread for more discussion not many will see it here.
 
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Thanks for taking a look - genuinely appreciated. Would you mind sharing what specifically pointed you to that conclusion? I'd like to understand the reasoning.

A few things that would help me evaluate it:
  • Is it something in the font/print itself (letter shapes, spacing, edge crispness under magnification)?
  • Does the text alignment relative to the hour markers look off (the MOY check)?
  • Is it the dial finish/texture?
  • Or is it mainly the color, since that's the one thing I haven't been able to find documented anywhere myself?
It's everything to be honest - for this watch maybe 10 different things - the painted indices - the low quality repaint chipping on edges, the missing SWISS MADE, never seeing a similar dial, Omega not using such glossy paint, hands not having original paint, seconds hand not being original etc. - also the general refinishing of the watch, the state of the movement

Surprisingly the actual typography is good on the dial
 
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It's everything to be honest - for this watch maybe 10 different things - the painted indices - the low quality repaint chipping on edges, the missing SWISS MADE, never seeing a similar dial, Omega not using such glossy paint, hands not having original paint, seconds hand not being original etc. - also the general refinishing of the watch, the state of the movement

Surprisingly the actual typography is good on the dial
Really appreciate the detailed breakdown, thank you. One follow-up - could you say more about "the state of the movement"? Trying to understand if that's a service/wear issue or something pointing to non-original parts.
 
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I’ll point at this looks like glue ? Or has someone sneezed
 
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Dirty movement, different coloured parts etc. (coating colour change)

Looking at the papers now and seeing a different serial there, its a classic watch dealer soft scam watch - hate them, they chase after stupid stuff like that and hurt everyone and everything involved
 
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Dirty movement, different coloured parts etc. (coating colour change)

Looking at the papers now and seeing a different serial there, its a classic watch dealer soft scam watch - hate them, they chase after stupid stuff like that and hurt everyone and everything involved
Really appreciate you taking the time to break this down in such detail - genuinely more helpful than I expected when I posted. Saved me from making a mistake with this one. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.