Hello! I have kind of an odd inquiry around a vintage Lecoultre. My boss received a LeCoultre from his grandfather, and it's in BEAUTIFUL condition. However, he put a 19mm spring bar in it and it started protruding from the outside ends of the lugs. It's made of 14k gold, and it is REALLY soft. He just had his watch refinished to get the "bumps" taken from the spring bars taken off the outside of the lugs. So, as of right now, it's in perfect condition and we're trying to figure out how to get it on a strap without this happening again. I suggested 18mm shoulder less spring bars as they very well may just sit nicely in there. Do any of you have any suggestions? A few facts: It's a vintage LeCoultre, solid 14K. It's been recently refinished and had a full rehaul done last year. It's THIN in general. The lugs are thin as well. It has 19mm lugs. Thoughts? Pictures:
This certainly can happen if an incorrect spring bar is used. Spring bars come in a variety of designs. I prefer the " double shoulder" variety as opposed to the telescoping type which has only one end that retracts, and no double shoulder on that end. Spring bars also come in different diameters. If the spring bar holes on the case are worn as you say, then a larger diameter spring bar, double-shoulder type would likely solve the problem.
The actual lug holes are incredibly small. Would it be worth trying a very thin (1.5mm) 18mm double shoulder?
Whatever he chooses to do, a spring bar should be tried on the watch before the strap is fitted. Because double shouldered lugs don't telescope fully, a length that will fit in place will have to be selected. 17 mm, 18 mm ? Tough to tell. But stay away from the telescoping type on which only one end telescopes, and that end has no double shoulder! They can be a problem.
Hi XJR, The 19mm pins pushed out gold into little "dimples" on the outside of the lugs. There was too much pressure from the spring bars for the thin lugs. I've talked to my friend and he is fine fastening one strap on the watch forever---it's just a matter of cutting down on the pressure from the spring bars. The lugs are razor thin, so I was thinking a shoulder less spring bar a couple sizes too small might do the trick. It could just rest in the lug holes without pressing into the end of the lug holes.
Two things, first you should find bars with larger shoulders, so that the pressure from the spring is distributed by the shoulder and not the tip of the bar and secondly you probably will need to shorten the tips of the bars so that they do not press against the lugs. Many different types of spring bars available, a good watchmaker should have a selection.