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Vintage 1976 De Ville 14K Gold Mesh Bracelet

DonG
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Hi all,

I'm new to this forum, so please excuse any mistakes in etiquette or formatting as I get the hang of things.

I recently picked up a 1976 Omega De Ville (Reference DD 6838, North American market), solid 14K yellow gold case with the integrated 14K mesh bracelet. My research - not yet confirmed - suggests it's powered by the Caliber 625 manual-wind movement. The dial is the original factory "linen texture" gold dial and is in beautiful shape. Provenance is single long-term ownership going back 25+ years, and from what I understand it sat in a drawer for the last 30 years - case and bracelet are unpolished and unmolested.

The watch isn't currently running, but the balance wheel moves freely and the crown and hands move easily.

Everything about the watch is excellent except the bracelet: it's developed a noticeable longitudinal bow and springs upward instead of lying flat. No tears, kinks, or crimps in the mesh itself - it's just lost its "lay flat" shape.

I've had two local jewelers look at it, and both suggested replacement as the only practical fix. Since I'm fairly confident this bracelet is original to the watch, I'd like to avoid replacing it unless it's truly unrepairable.

A few questions for anyone with experience on vintage Omega mesh bracelets like this:

  • Is this kind of longitudinal bowing typically repairable/restorable, or is it usually a lost cause?
  • If it can be fixed, is this something a general jeweler can handle, or does it need someone who specializes in vintage integrated mesh bracelets? Any recommendations for specialists?
  • If it's not fixable, how much does this affect the watch's value/desirability from a collector's perspective?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Forumposting_190836.webp
 
Porteroso
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I am curious, is it bowed when on the wrist? Or just laying flat? The value of the bracelet will be in the melt value, so unaffected by its shape.
 
DonG
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Porteroso Porteroso
I am curious, is it bowed when on the wrist? Or just laying flat? The value of the bracelet will be in the melt value, so unaffected by its shape.
Thanks for the question. The bracelet does have a twist - at the lugs, at points it sits anywhere from 1/16" to 3/16" offset from the wrist. It's not uncomfortable to wear, but it's definitely noticeable once you know it's there.

I'm not looking to sell right away - I'm mainly trying to gauge whether a piece like this still holds collectible value with the twist, or whether that defect pushes it toward melt-value territory regardless.
 
Porteroso
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DonG DonG
Thanks for the question. The bracelet does have a twist - at the lugs, at points it sits anywhere from 1/16" to 3/16" offset from the wrist. It's not uncomfortable to wear, but it's definitely noticeable once you know it's there.

I'm not looking to sell right away - I'm mainly trying to gauge whether a piece like this still holds collectible value with the twist, or whether that defect pushes it toward melt-value territory regardless.
With these types, it is always the melt value. You could look at stainless versions to see what it sells for in stainless. The price of gold is so high that it simply outpaces the collectible value. So I don't believe the small twist matters at all.

I bet this is a little tricky to fix, but just a bit of heat and patience might get it. I would hesitate to take it to a jeweler, i would expect it to be mangled by most. Often these are not seen as salvagable once they start to go. But yours may be. Best of luck.
 
DON
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As mentioned. These are not collectable models. Its value is usually 10% above melt value as it’s still usable as a watch, but due tipi bracelet damage. Melt value only

Maybe you didn’t notice, but there appears to be a crack in the band. Can see near the case on the right hand side.

No idea how these bracelets are even made, but I’m guessing damaged or bent due to mishandling.

Since it’s not attached to the bottom case. Attached to the bezel? Odd.

The cost of replacing a bracelet at today’s gold price will be extremely high and far more than the value of the watch.

Alternative. Have a gold smith removed the bracelet and sell it. Have the gold smith creat and weld on strap lugs and use a leather or? strap on the watch
 
DonG
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Porteroso Porteroso
With these types, it is always the melt value. You could look at stainless versions to see what it sells for in stainless. The price of gold is so high that it simply outpaces the collectible value. So I don't believe the small twist matters at all.

I bet this is a little tricky to fix, but just a bit of heat and patience might get it. I would hesitate to take it to a jeweler, i would expect it to be mangled by most. Often these are not seen as salvagable once they start to go. But yours may be. Best of luck.
Thanks for your advice.I suspect that its inevitable that the gold value will far esceed the collector value.
 
DonG
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Porteroso Porteroso
With these types, it is always the melt value. You could look at stainless versions to see what it sells for in stainless. The price of gold is so high that it simply outpaces the collectible value. So I don't believe the small twist matters at all.

I bet this is a little tricky to fix, but just a bit of heat and patience might get it. I would hesitate to take it to a jeweler, i would expect it to be mangled by most. Often these are not seen as salvagable once they start to go. But yours may be. Best of luck.
I appreciate your thoughts.
 
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