Trying to remove an Ultronic chrono (ESA 9210) movement from case

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Hi, the minute counter hand on my ultronic flung itself off when resetting the other day. Trying to get the movement out of the case so I can put it back in place (I guess if it happens again I'll need to explore options to tightening the fit).

I have removed the tuning for module, case clamps, winding stem (I guess it's not a winding stem in this case) following along with this video about a Speedsonic, but that video jumps from where I'm at to the movement out of the case.

The movement now has a bit of play to rotate back and forth, but I'm pretty sure the movement plate is sitting under this lip of the case, circled in the attached photo.

That makes me think maybe that lip is on a movement ring which will come out, but a little bit of light prying hasn't moved it at all so I'm going to put the tools down until I've got an idea of what the next step is.

Thanks!

Frank
 
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3
Hi, the minute counter hand on my ultronic flung itself off when resetting the other day. Trying to get the movement out of the case so I can put it back in place (I guess if it happens again I'll need to explore options to tightening the fit).

I have removed the tuning for module, case clamps, winding stem (I guess it's not a winding stem in this case) following along with this video about a Speedsonic, but that video jumps from where I'm at to the movement out of the case.

The movement now has a bit of play to rotate back and forth, but I'm pretty sure the movement plate is sitting under this lip of the case, circled in the attached photo.

That makes me think maybe that lip is on a movement ring which will come out, but a little bit of light prying hasn't moved it at all so I'm going to put the tools down until I've got an idea of what the next step is.

Thanks!

Frank
 
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I've just had the thought that I'm not sure the dial would fit through this opening and perhaps the movement comes out the other side.
 
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perhaps the movement comes out the other side.
No, it comes out from the back. Have you checked all tabs are off and the chrono buttons are clear?
If they are, try levering it straight up with levers each side of the movement.
 
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Sorry, thought you were talking about an Omega. Can you show us moe oics of the watch, front and back.
 
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I've just had the thought that I'm not sure the dial would fit through this opening and perhaps the movement comes out the other side.
Sure enough. I'll leave this post here so hopefully the next person googling it comes across this.
 
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I can't tell if that movement ring is part of the case or not. If the tabs just sit on the ring and don't slot into grooves, it's another clue it's holding the movement upwards into the case.

Do a quick measurement across the diagonal of the dial and similar on the movement.
If the dial is bigger, it's probably a front loader.
Look for a tiny gap under the bezel that indicates where you can start to remove it.

You're doing good by taking a break and not forcing anything. Let's know how it goes.

PS: I've never done one of these and trying to diagnose problems via the interwebs is difficult.
 
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I can't tell if that movement ring is part of the case or not. If the tabs just sit on the ring and don't slot into grooves, it's another clue it's holding the movement upwards into the case.

Do a quick measurement across the diagonal of the dial and similar on the movement.
If the dial is bigger, it's probably a front loader.
Look for a tiny gap under the bezel that indicates where you can start to remove it.

You're doing good by taking a break and not forcing anything. Let's know how it goes.

PS: I've never done one of these and trying to diagnose problems via the interwebs is difficult.
Yep, it's done and back together. Indeed on the Longines variant of this watch the movement comes out the front. The front bezel and glass come off with a case knife, and once the stem and clamps are out presumably the movement will come out freely. I was only re-setting a hand so I didn't actually remove it.
 
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Here's the watch with the front bezel and glass removed. You can see how much larger the actual dial is than the opening in the back. The hand was working its way loose on the minute recording dial, so for now I've swapped it with the running seconds hand, which is a tight fit. The loose fit should matter a little less on the running seconds hand, because it's not going to see the wild accelerations that the minute recording hand sees during a reset. If it becomes a problem on the running seconds dial, I'll give it a bit of a pinch with my pin vise.