Bought this El Primero during the last days of 2014 and today I got it home.

I have long had a sense, a feeling, about this model – ref 90/01 0500400. I sort of knew that it had qualities far beyond what pictures could tell. I was convinced there was more to it. I knew it had a domed sapphire crystal, a domed dial, vintage style pushers, etc. But when researching the reference on the net it always turned up blank, dull, boring, on one-dimensional pictures. When a good watch buddy had one up for sale I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to see who was right – me or the pictures.

Now I know I was right and the pictures were wrong.

The size is forever modern – or if you choose so - never modern. Trends will come and go. At 38 mm (not counting crown) and 12,5 mm thickness it is in my opinion the perfect size for a classic dress chronograph. The stainless case has nice proportions and polished sides and bezel. Brushed finish on top of lugs. Thru the crystal in the caseback the classic El Primero movement is beautiful to see. The cal 400 needs no introduction here. It has a nice finish but nothing really special (finish wise).

The dial has a beautiful dome shape, getting steeper at the outer edges, and it is antique white/silver/satin in colour and finish. It has subtle details which does not come thru in pictures but in reality they give a warm, old fashioned quality feeling – two different sorts of faceted applied indexes, a fine gloss silver-chrome edge on the vertical part (vertical to the dial that is) of the subdial edges, subdial texture – a fine circular pattern, etc. The detailed date window with its colour matched datewheel. Fine and well balanced hands complements the dial. Almost all pictures I have seen on the net portray this dial as a dead flat surface. That is not the truth – on the contrary – It has a detailed, subtle, discrete, old fashioned charm and class. Class.

Pushers are retro looking. They have a modern, distinct click and a solid feeling. The crown is in a size that we just do not see on modern watches. Maybe a little on the small side for handling but beautiful. The sapphire is wonderful – with a curve, a dome that works in the same direction as everything above – pure class (funny detail – the model after this one, with the same design was named ”Class”). The curve of the crystal perfectly complements the shape of the case and bezel (do not think the latter it is a separate part). This curvature of the crystal and its part in the overall design is yet a thing that never show in pictures.

The strap and buckle is original to the watch and are practically unworn. I would like to have the same strap but with a brown seam. The white seam gives it a too sporty look in my opinion. We will see what the future brings…

Conclusion
This is a really, really nice watch. It has pure class. It is as anti T. Nataf as a watch could be. I actually reckon this being within of the last ten watches that will leave me. It has an old fashioned charm, yet is not more than circa 15 years old. The combination of that retro sense and a 100 m water resistance (when properly and regularly serviced), sapphire crystal front and back, the size, the movement, etc makes this a clear and given winner. The sad thing is that it is not known. I do not even think it was a successful watch for Zenith. There is no buzz, no sex. No famous owners or TV/film appearances what I know of.

I wish it to have its rightful place and status. It deserves it. Now I have done my part.

Sadly my pictures does not help my case.





And some from its former owner - with his permission.

 

Very nice!

 

Terrific watch. Your point is made. It looks like something that might have a Movado M95 or a Zenith 156 or an Omega 320 inside. Retro in the most tasteful and appealing way. Gorgeous lugs. Great pick-up.

 

Outstanding!

 

Great pickup and congrats! Was looking at the El Primero myself and was thrown off by the fact that it was 38mm. Looks very nice.

 

Really nice!!

 

Two days later. Still in love.

 

Me too! And two days later, still looks fantastic.

 

Looks very nice. Love that 36-38mm case size.

 

Very nice watch. I think I need a classic looking watch like that....

 

Beautiful watch and a great write up too, I really get a sense of it´s charms now.

 

That's a very elegant watch. I searched the reference number and hit this one. The dial seems the same but the hands are obviously different. Is this one legit?

 

Looks legit. Same hands as this one here.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=361191224619&globalID=EBAY-DE&alt=webPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network

 

When researching the ref I found this on the net. It is supposed to be a1999 brochure. The references are the same but for mine having "90/" before the rest of the numbers - while the ones in the brochure have different numbers added on before (strap or bracelet) and afterwards (colour of dial).



I think this is the model after the "90/". It is presented as "Class el Primero".

From what I have seen the "90/" does not have different reference numbers stating what colour the dial has. I have seen both black and silver/white with the same ref - 90/01 0500400 but of course they could have been changed during service. Maybe someone have earlier catalogs/brochures?

 

Beautiful, I had missed the beauty of this one emtirely ... I think I actually prefer it to the a386

 

Came across this thread only today, and I must say this is a 'stealth' EP indeed. Dressy and indeed very lovely!

 

Congrats, beautiful watch ! Wear in good health

 

Very nice. Your write up is exactly right...I know this as I own the same watch. Will never part with it.