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The future of Tudor, TAG, and others

  1. Canuck Oct 13, 2015

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    What is the general opinion regarding what is likely to happen with watch companies outside the Swatch group that use ETA movements? What options do they have in choosing movements to replace ETA.
     
  2. Optimizer13 Oct 13, 2015

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    Tudor started making their own in-house movements
     
  3. Canuck Oct 13, 2015

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    That may have to happen with a number of other brands. But some prominent brands which are marketed by non watchmaking companies might be in doo doo over ETA cutting supply. It appears it will be survival of the fittest. Are we likely to see traditionally Swiss companies gravitating to Japanese movements, such as is happening to Swiss brands in popular price ranges. Or, Heaven forbid, Chinese? Although that might already be happening!
     
  4. ulackfocus Oct 13, 2015

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    One word: SELLITA.
     
  5. shaun hk Fairy nuffer Oct 14, 2015

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    From my understanding Sinn have already made the switch from ETA to Sellita
     
  6. constellationM Oct 14, 2015

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    It may be a good thing or a bad thing.
    Sellita will certainly find many orders.

    Mr Hayek had stated that too many companies were depending on ETA and were not self reliant and innovation was stalling. A situation similar to the 80s was developing again.

    So whether this action by Swatch Group was to simply starve other companies of their product is strange, because Sellita benefits directly. On the other hand it has caused Tudor, Mont Blanc, Panerai and others to develop their own in house movements. Which is a good thing.

    We will have to wait and see
     
  7. Audley Yung Oct 14, 2015

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    I'm very excited to see the future of Tudor.
     
  8. PatrickJ Oct 14, 2015

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    [Qbelievelackfocus, post: 341289, member: 144"]One word: SELLITA.[/QUOTE]
    I beleive Oris use sellita.
     
  9. PatrickJ Oct 14, 2015

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    What happens to companies that have ETA in their watches now? What will happen years down the line if they need parts.
     
  10. STANDY schizophrenic pizza orderer and watch collector Oct 14, 2015

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    I beleive Oris use sellita.[/QUOTE]


    I see the subliminal (believe @ulackfocus ) in your post :cautious:
     
  11. Horlogerie EU based Professional Watchmaker Oct 14, 2015

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    For the Sellitta movements that are a copy of the ETA 28XX series and the 7750, then it makes sense that companies that were using ETA would switch over. That way the new movement fits the existing case and doesn't need a re-design. Sellitta has had some quality and design issues, so they are not perfect and need further work.

    As for what happens to watches that use ETA movements and you can't source parts outside of Swatch?

    I think they will drop in value, and end up as paperweights, if your only choice is now with the manufacturer, and they charge crazy prices for spares and the service, then it becomes un-economical to fix the watch. I was speaking to a Omega Certified watchmaker friend of mine the other day, he mentioned that HIS cost for a 500 series Omega Balance wheel was somewhere in the $500.00 range...crazy and not sustaiable at all. As well he figures that it's only a matter of time before Omega cancels his parts account, even now, some parts are not available to him and restricted by Omega, so the end will come, eventually...it will all be in-house, for all Swiss brands.

    The list prices for ETA movements and spares has skyrocketed in the past few years, like many watchmakers I have a large supply of ETA spare movements and parts, but they will dry up over time, so I will do like many watchmakers and simply refuse to work on anything with ETA inside...

    BHI Certified Professional Watchmaker
     
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  12. happytapy Oct 14, 2015

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    Most will make there own I feel. Collaborate or go it alone. If Bremont can do it, then the likes of Switzerland's mightiest should be able to.

    Means a lot of cost but might also mean greater variety and no doubt we will get some stellar performers in all of this. Growing pains while this occurs though.

    Probably the greatest gift Swatch could give the Swiss watch business. [emoji15]
     
  13. Darlinboy Pratts! Will I B******S!!! Oct 14, 2015

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    There may be a bit of a shakeout at the margins, but companies who are having significant success are going to find another supplier/solution.

    Sellita or someone else as yet on the scene.
     
  14. Horlogerie EU based Professional Watchmaker Oct 14, 2015

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    Do what? lie about the origin of a movement?

    If I remember correctly, Bremont was caught in a lie concerning their "in-house" movement design, which it turned out wasn't in-house at all.
     
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  15. ulackfocus Oct 14, 2015

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    So was TAG with a Seiko caliber.
     
  16. PatrickJ Oct 14, 2015

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    I see the subliminal (believe @ulackfocus ) in your post :cautious:[/QUOTE]
    No just a spelling mistake
     
  17. PatrickJ Oct 14, 2015

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    No just a spelling mistake[/QUOTE]
    Was it as bad as what Tag did with their in house movement that was based on a Seiko.
     
  18. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Oct 14, 2015

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    Well...yes and no. Read this to get a clearer picture of who is actually making what:

    http://www.europastar.com/watch-knowledge/1004087450-mechanical-who-will-succeed-eta.html

    From the article, Sellita's production as of last year was around 40% still assembling ETA movements they buy from ETA. By 2019 they hope to have all 1.6 million movements per year produced by them, but there is a catch...the bigger issue is balances and balance springs, and mainsprings. They are trying to put in place the ability to make these parts, but recognize that about 90% of Swiss watches rely on Nivarox for parts. COMCO has ordered Nivarox to keep supplying these parts for now. Once it's demonstrated that others are working to fill the void, I suspect they will allow Nivarox to start cutting back supplies of their parts.

    The bottom line is that Sellita still relies heavily on parts from Swatch group. They can't even get their production of approx. 1.6 million movements to be fully in house yet, let alone replace the 5-6 million ETA movements that are sold every year (well before the reductions started anyway).

    Same situation for Soprod, so although there are makers that are moving in the right direction to fill the supply, they won't be able to produce what Swatch is removing from the market by any means.

    There will be plenty of ETA parts floating around for decades to come, so I don't believe the watches will become paperweights any more than any other watch that has discontinued movement parts would be. If the watch is desirable, then it will still get repaired as other desirable watches do now.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  19. abrod520 Oct 14, 2015

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    FWIW TAG has already begun putting Sellita movements in their watches, and raising the price for them.
     
  20. happytapy Oct 14, 2015

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    [emoji6]