Good to see some clean benches in this thread...the watch you are working on is only as clean as your bench, as my instructor used to say every day. My bench is cleared off every night, and wiped down each morning before I start - good habits mean good results.
😀
Anyway I thought I would show my set-up...here's the bench - timing machine and vacuum system on the far right side:
I can't stress ergonomics enough - watchmaking requires a fairly high bench relative to your eye height. A low chair can work, but if you work at the bench for extended periods of time, you should have the chair set so that your feet are flat on the floor, and your thighs are parallel to the floor, and adjust the bench from there. After using the very nice adjustable height benches in school (that cost as much as a small car) I tried different heights with those and found one that was good for me, so had my bench built to that height.
Equipment that is right beside my bench - case opener, press, dry pressure testing machine:
Storage for parts and crystals:
The final test winder - every watch goes on this no matter what type. Not only does it test the automatic winding on automatic watches, it's good for checking positional variation on manual winding watches, and even checking for hand interference on quartz watches:
Here is the microscope I use:
The only actual work I do using this is oiling co-axial escapements. I do use it for inspection of various things, like checking chronograph controls, etc. But for things like regular oiling of pivots or the escapement, it's not really needed and loupes work just fine. I use a 4X flip down loupe mounted on reading glasses for most general assembly tasks, and a 10X aplanatic loupe for finer work like oiling a lever escapement. When selecting a microscope you don't really need super high magnification - 50X is plenty. What you do need is good working height under the lens. This one also has lighting from above and below, and I can turn one or both on, and also vary it's intensity.
Of course these photos only show a fraction of the tools I have. I have drawers full of small hand tools and other tools - for example here is a shot just showing the movement holders:
Lubricants:
The materials are another thing - I try to stock enough materials so that most jobs that come in with common movements and cases I can simply get the job done without having to order anything. This drawer is just for gaskets:
Now in a different part of the shop (brands require some operations to be done in a different area than the bench work) here is the cleaning machine:
And in that same room more "dirty" operations are performed:
The polishing is done in a completely different area from the two shown - it's in the basement essentially.
As noted even a very basic shop can cost many thousands, so when asked I advise people to buy good tools, and if possible get good vintage tools. Often the vintage tools are better quality than some modern versions, and you can get them at good prices.
Glad to see some others interested in working on watches.
Cheers, Al
