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swapping deployant clasp between OE straps

  1. night0wl Feb 19, 2017

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    What's everyone's trick of choice for the deployant clasp and removing the spring bar? I thought about this today because it's a PITA Everytime I change the straps on my speedies. I always feel that I'm on the edge of destroying an Omega strap with the 6767-F as it always seems to slip off when applying pressure. That little springbar is just small and the shoulders do not seem to like the fine tip. Is the 6111 bergeon the weapon of choice here? I thought _maybe_ that the larger fork end may be better to slide into the deployant and be able to use a less sharp and larger surface area to compress and left to remove the spring bar.

    Are the tip ends the same for the 6111 and the 6757-F?

    Also which way does everyone get at the spring bar ? I usually lift the strap up and lay the deployant flat so if the 6767-F does slip it ruins the underside of the strap vs the top of it.
     
  2. night0wl Feb 19, 2017

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    Angle of attack, lower left corner using the slippery 6767-F
     
    Screenshot_20170219-175041.png
  3. Omeg@007 BLACK & ORANGE rule!!! Feb 19, 2017

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    I use a hard tape on sides to avoid any bounce from the spring bar which may happen during the removal so it will not scratch the inner nd outer surface of these beautiful deployant.
     
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  4. drhex Feb 20, 2017

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    I take the deployant apart and go at it from the inside - that still gives some marks but they are invisible once put together. Lots of little springy parts, careful on dismantling. What is the "official" approach?
     
  5. night0wl Feb 20, 2017

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    I decided to just buy a 6111 to get rid of the 6767. I'll test it with the larger forked end to see if I can get at it easier. Hopefully it's here before end of the week. I know my local boutique goes at them from the top, with the small fine fork, from the top. They have ruined two straps going that route though.
     
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  6. yinzerniner Feb 21, 2017

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    I've always found that the 6767 does a much better job with tight spaces than the 6111, especially when it comes to the 18mm spring bar at the clasp end. The reason why is the flat/wide fork of the 6111 is simply too wide for the space between the springbar and the channel in the clasp.
    As for dismounting, I've always found the easiest procedure is from the top, but with a few distinct and separate steps. First, gently wedge the small fork of the 6767 in between the edges of the strap and the clasp to the point where it stays embedded. Then, add masking tape to the parts of the strap and clasp that are immediately above and below the wedged in springbar tool fork. Then, hold the strap in the palm while applying slight pressure up to the clasp, like when you're popping off a champagne cork. And finally, slowly wiggle the springbar tool fork to feel for the shoulder of the springbar, and slightly wedge it down.
    Never scratched or damaged a strap or clasp using this method. Also the masking tape on top and bottom help catch the springbar if it exhibits the "pogo stick" effect after removal.
    Best of luck.
     
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  7. night0wl Feb 22, 2017

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    Tried this tonight. While a bit weird at first I might be able to get the hang of it. Masking tape makes me feel safer this route. I don't know how comfortable I feel doing this with a ceramic clasp. Maybe after some time. This definitely seemed like it was easier to get at the springbar.