Submariner 1680 advice

abistodenas

Once we have noted that, the good configuration for a white 1680 is mk1 or mk3, homogeneous patina with box and papers. And there, it's rarely 16k... Supply and demand... As for the red sub, you have to be careful because many dials have been changed. It is necessary to check the match with the serial number.

abistodenas

There's no set period for the dials. A Mk1, Mk2, or Mk3 could be from 1978, 1977, or 1979, without distinction. Mk2s have the Rolex "L" offset to the left. As for laser charging, if it's done well, why not, but is it the same steel used for the original model? 🤷‍♂️

Gui13250

Thanks a lot.
Regarding MK dial version, I guess it it the same with 5513 ?
Regarding laser welding, for the one I know, he uses the correct steel regarding period of the watch. But we never know if it has been done or not, if it is the correct steel or not !

Gui13250

Hi all,
Regarding plexiglass, how to check if it is a correct one ? And does it count ?
Because when having a look at 5513, some have a flat one, other a “box”, and some other a dome.
Is it the same for 1680 ?
Thanks

ibis888

The 1680 should have the stepped "top hat" crystal. The 5513 should have a domed crystal. Both are acrylic.

Gui13250

Thanks.
So, a dome crystal should be as much “dome” as this one ?

ibis888

Yes. One of the many reasons of why I like these vintage subs more than their modern counterparts.

Gui13250

Another option, this 1680 for 11k€.
White the bezel is not in good shape, it seems original. Case and crown guard are scratched but with a lot of materiel from my point of view.
Patina on the dial is light, would it be a better option ? Or is the bezel too damaged ?

mr.kaplan

These 580 end links are fake.

Mark020

That says not too much