Talk me through the thought process leading someone to bid $16,250 for this particular Tri-Compax. It must check ALL the boxes to command such a price. https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/universal/tri-compax/lpi
It doesn't necessarily need to check any boxes. It just needs to embroil the loins of at least two wealthy and enthusiastic (idiotic) bidders. Case and point. These two pocket watches, each which would have sold for less than $500 on Ebay, sold for near $10,000 each. Actually - well over $10,000 USD for the first one, after commission. http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/...8464&sid=64ac39f0-0aa5-4b63-8a6c-044fdc21f775 http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/...2798&sid=64ac39f0-0aa5-4b63-8a6c-044fdc21f775
On PM we have discussed and cheered on the purchase of 37mm Tri that are nicer than this for under 10k. It's the madness of the auction houses and collectors with more money than sense as Modest says.
Ok, maybe I need to rephrase my query to " please talk me through why one example like this and the one in another thread at 10k are such good examples of Tri-Compax watches" I understand irrationality of Auctions, I own a few examples probably like the rest of you. what is the stratification of value with these? 37-39mm is a top rung attribute and SS seems to be on par with precious but what about all the dial layouts and applied over printed numerals and markers? What about radial numerals versus horizontal placement? And subdial numerals? Some have as few as 4 some many more. I like the clean minimalistic look on first study. You see where I was hoping to go with this thread? Kind of a Flow Chart of desirability for UG Tri-Compax watches. Where on that chart I end up affording for now is up for debate, but I would like the knowledge to pounce if a Top One wonders into my sight. And to simplify, let's keep on point with examples from the 1940s since that is the era from which I want to collect.
Overall it's in good condition ... don't like the relume on the hands but can't be helped. SS + oversized + overall clean condition = bidding war.
My one year experience with the brand. I own six with lots of help from the UG experts. UG because of its history is less easy to nail down than Omega to a flow chart. There was lots of customization available while they were in business. Consistency was not a hallmark of their brand and therefore it helps to leverage Sala and the UG forum. The company is not really a going concern and the records are all over the place. (Cave in the Alps?) The best reference is Sala and it is relatively affordable. Then you want to look for dials/hands/crowns/movements, that fit chronologically with the sn first and and then reference number. SN and Ref number applies only to cases. Then there is the question of the variation across dial suppliers, service dials. There is lots of info in the UG Forum here. Redials are mostly really obvious or fiendishly good. Another warning sign is tampering, engraving or poor stamping of sn and reference. It's a fun journey and you won't get burned if you do your homework. Franken alert ... later dive watches, space compax, sport chrono. Also you need to use advertisements (Sala has lots) and the forum if you are considering less complicated non chrono watches. Like I said I'm one year in. Folks with more experience will have different or similar points of reference. Expert consensus is often the best you are going to have with this brand. I have learned that even Sala reference pages are subject to interpretation and some of the dial references in the B&W pages are redials. Of course the usual problem signs also apply: Like clean dials and dirty movements etc.
Larry S, thank you, I've been reading my way backward into this Forum gathering bits and pieces of knowledge, plus studying the super helpful period ads members so graciously posted for others, and you are so right...UG was all over the map with dials, hands and fonts and layouts within this Tri-Compax model just within a 3-4 year span. Also, I guess it is hit/miss for finding a unfaded, blue moonphase disc(with face! gotta have originality)....I guess, depending on who made the dial and/or humidity of the locality where purchased and worn. How does one correlate case serial # to movement serial number? And then to ref number?
I'd get the Sala book were i you. It's been a great investment. You do need to know how to read it however. Observing and participation in discussions with it in front of you helps.
Ps finding a moonphase with a face ... tough go. That's going to drive value. At some point UG was replacing these as they serviced probably because they did not hold up well. I have a 1950s gold version that probably never had it and my SS 22242 was worn by a member of the military, led an active life and prob serviced in the late 50s early 60s and lost its face dial.
Gotta be 37mm at least, I've been reading how rare these are and I am aiming high for now. And SS. And early. Up in air over alpha or leaf hands so far. Many on this hunt, I know.....