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SS v. Gold Fill on Vintage Longines

  1. Superpacker Sep 7, 2013

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    Can anyone weigh in on the pros and cons of either? I don't believe I will be able to get into the solid gold range, but would prefer something in gold color or two tone. How thick is the gold fill on these vintage Longines from the 50s and 60s? Is it something that will wear off with average use? Is it something that can be redone, is it costly and does it affect the value? Or is it better to go with simple SS? Because SS doesn't have any plating to wear off, are they more collectible? Any info would be appreciated
     
  2. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Sep 7, 2013

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    You're speaking about gold plate. Gold fill colors the metal gold toned through and through and wear is not an issue. I wouldn't worry about it in this case though, presuming that you start off with a model in good shape. You'e have to use it pretty hard and long for the steel to show through.

    SS is somewhat more collectible in general, but not necessarily because of the issue of the plate wear - it's just market preference.
     
  3. Superpacker Sep 7, 2013

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    I thought fill was just a thicker version of gold plate and that the thickness increased in ascending level from plate, to rolled gold, to gold fill.
     
  4. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Sep 7, 2013

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    I'm not claiming great expertise here, and the terminology varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I think gold cap (which I regard as synonymous with rolled gold) is the thicker form of plate, and gold filled colors the metal through and through, but perhaps someone who really knows the subject can set us straight.
     
  5. ulackfocus Sep 7, 2013

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    Gold plate is a thin layer of gold that's attached to the case via electroplating, PVD, or CVD. Dip the finished case in a solution with the gold suspended / dissolved into it, then add an electric charge. The charged case attracts the gold and it bonds to the surface. It's usually 20 microns thick, but can be anywhere from 10 to 80 microns.

    Gold filled is a layer of gold thicker than plating fused to the case with heat & pressure. Rolled gold plate is very similar to gold filled except it uses less gold. These processes usually have gold layers of 50 to 150 microns thick.

    Gold capped is the thickest layer of gold of any of the methods described, at least 200 microns.
     
  6. Superpacker Sep 7, 2013

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    Very helpful, as usual Dennis. As a Longines aficionado, do you have anything else to contribute on the above posed questions. Originally thought I would go Omega as my first vintage purchase. But lately been leaning a lot towards Longines, but the above questions keep coming up, as If I get an Omega, it would be gold capped seamaster deville, which as you pointed out is quite thick
     
  7. ulackfocus Sep 7, 2013

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    A bit of rambling from the veiwpoint of being a fan of both brands:

    Being a Longines collector means less overall competition for watches, and generally lower prices on equal quality pieces to Omega. For instance, these two watches in my collection are roughly equivalent in condition (damn near mint), were near the top of the line in their respective brands for 18ct dress watches in the year they were made, and had similar features that make loony collectors go nuts (cool dial markers, caseback medallions, less convention crown shapes, etc):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Since one is a bumper and the other full rotor, a movement comparison is out. Longines never made a bumper, but if you were to put the Longines caliber 290 series of the early 60's up against the Omega caliber 551/561 series from the same era in a head to head comparison the Longines would edge out the Omega movements because of a better engineered and more durable automatic winding system and a slightly larger balance wheel (capable of more consistent amplitude giving less beat error) that results in an overall more dependable and accurate watch. Even though Longines did not send many watches in for chronometer certification, their standards were as good or better than necessary to pass. I'm not calling the Omega 55x/56x bad in any way, just a hair under the Longines overall. Omega was certainly better at mass production though. As far as value, the pie pan sells for around $4K now, and the date-at-12 goes for $2.6K or around that neighborhood. Both have been appreciating steadily over the last few years. Omega has a larger fan base by far.

    A long time ago I said if I ever had to choose between my 18ct Conquest 9025 and 14ct Constellation 168.005 the Omega would be sold. Hoi's buddy knows this for a fact - he now owns that pie pan.
     
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