Since I bought my Speedy, I've mostly been wearing it on a rally strap which I think perfectly suits the original intentions Omega had for the watch, not of course that there's anything wrong with the NASA associations, far from it. But having seen some recent shots of a vintage 1171, I had a hankering to try my watch out on the 1998/849 bracelet, given that funds are not currently available for a 1171 - not yet anyway.

Moving from a leather strap to what many of you will appreciate is a weighty and solid metal bracelet was something of a change - not helped by my wrist being precisely the "wrong" size. I say that because with seven links on the six o'clock side, eight links on the twelve and using the tightest of the two adjustment holes on the clasp, the bracelet was too loose with the watch head flopping around all over the place. Perhaps you can guess what's coming next. I passed through the pain barrier of dealing with all that pin and collar nonsense to remove a link, only to find the bracelet was now too tight, even on the loosest clasp hole. Great. The reason why Omega moved from seven adjustment holes on previous clasps to the current two, eludes me.

However, Google, as ever is your friend.

I read that the half links for the Seamaster 1610 bracelet are a perfect match for the 1998/849 cosmetically and fit with the same sized pins and collars. So a quick visit to one of our favourite on-line retailers later and this little beauty arrived.



Here's the Speedy taped up ready for the bracelet work to commence. This is the 6 o'clock side with its seven links.



After a bit of swearing and one bent pin later, here it is with 6 and a half links.



As you can see I elected to fit the half-link one link up from the clasp rather than adjacent to it. This was because I'd previously loosened the link it replaced and I actually quite like looking at the little tinker when it's on the wrist.



With the half link in position, the tightest clasp hole gives me a perfect fit, as you can see from this other wrist shot, there's easily enough slack to shove a finger in there, which I've always taken to be the sign of a comfy fit. I also have the option to go to the looser clasp hole should I need. It's a pleasure to have a correctly sized bracelet, at last.

 

The Google knows all - and tells all too! Great when you need to know something, not so great when it comes to keeping secrets.

Sounds like you use the same bracelet / strap procedure I do. is my favorite word when I'm changing straps.

 

So true about the swearing and pins. The first one would not engage at all, so had to be "pliered" out, while the second one went in as sweet as anything. Who knows why? Same technique, same force, different result. I'm happy though as this nice fitting 1998 means I cannot rationalise the expense of a 1171. Well not yet...

 

My first Omega bracelet sizing experience was on a ten-year-old Seamaster that had the 1610/930 bracelet. The pins apparently had not been touched since the initial sizing, and had decided that they liked just where they were. I bought one of those pin removers and initially could not get a pin to budge, breaking the spare pins on the remover instead. That was Round One. Round Two, with another pin remover and more patience on my part, was more successful, as I was able to push the bracelet pins out as far as the pin remover would allow. Unfortunately that was not very far, and a pair of pliers were employed to try to wrest the pins completely out. I would grip those pliers as tightly as I could, but the pins were still fighting, and the pliers would slip off the pin without budging it. Round Three was finally successful, as I decided to try to find a way to push the pins further out, making pliers unnecessary. What I did was root around my house until I found a small paper clip made of wire that was a slightly smaller diameter than the bracelet pin. I cut a small length of that wire, short enough to slip into the pin hole of the bracelet, but not stick out. I then used the pin remover to push against that small piece of wire, which in turn pushed against the bracelet pin, forcing the pin out far enough to pull it out of the bracelet by hand.

I just used the pin remover/paper clip method on a Speedmaster last evening, and had the pin completely out in about one minute. No headaches and no scratches on the bracelet.

 

Nice one Paul - I've had occasions when the pins have behaved and like the Speedy strap here, times when it just does not want to play. Even the cheap pin removing tool I use is usually fine. It may be slightly heretical to say this on an Omega specific forum but the screws in my 16610 are a lot easier to work with. Ultimately all of the grief would be unnecessary if the clasp had more than two comfort holes. Having said that, today was my first full day wearing my correctly fitting Speedy and it was a joy!

 

Paul's paper clip pusher tip ROCKS! Paul, you turned 1 hour of agony adjusting my Seamaster bracelet into five minutes of pleasure. Thanks.

 

I've had success with 3 in 1 oil.Simply fold a paper towel, stand the bracelet on one side and put a drop of oil on the pins to be removed. Let it sit overnight then turn everything 180 degrees and repeat the procedure. Before replacing the new/old pins rub them too with a little oil. When you're finished, wipe down the entire bracelet put it in the dishwasher, yea the little compartment next to the silverware, and run it with a load of dishes.

 

For me those screwed pin removers are pretty much useless. I find I have much more control the traditional way, using a device to clamp the bracelet (this is a Citizen one and works VERY well) and then the Bergeon pins and holder. These are also available in a very expensive set that includes a based and tube for that holder to go into, but really you don't need that. The watchmaker's hammer provides all the persuasion necessary to remove and replace pins.



As has been mentioned, cleaning the bracelet before removing the pins is not a bad idea, in particular if the bracelet has not been cleaned in a while. The dirt that gets in there can be like concrete in some cases. If pins do not go in the first time and they jam and distort, it's most likely that the holes were not lined up 100% and the pin has hit the inside of a link. Once again the hammer allows me to feel things very well when the pins are going in, and I know immediately if I have an obstruction.

Cheers, Al

 

Al's probably asleep now so I'll tell of one of my experiences to tide us over.

A mate was at my place for a barbie a few weeks ago and mentioned that his watch was behaving very erratically.
"OK, I'll have a look at it for you, when was the last battery change?"
"Battery???"
"OK, give it here".

It was a nice shiny steel chrono on a big shiny steel bracelet. I turned it over to see what sort of case it was and nearly coughed up my beer.

Every nook and cranny in the back of the watch and the bracelet was packed with something that resembled a mixture of black mud, tiny fibres of "stuff" and more bits of "matter".

I managed to keep it together as I changed the battery and checked it was running OK, and handed it back.

After a surgeon level handwashing I was game to pick up my beer again.

 

Yes, I see some pretty disgusting watches....some examples...





This is dirt from only 1 link - every link was packed with dirt like this....





The "waxy" stuff is the worst...the smell is sometimes nearly unbearable...being a watchmaker is so glamorous....NOT...





I don't know how people strap these watches on their wrists - don't they ever look at the bracelet?



So I feel some days like I need to put on a HAZMAT suit. I can assure you that I wash well after handling this stuff, and make sure I don't breathe anything in while working on the watches. The work bench is completely disinfected after working on some of the watches I get in. I will spare you the photos of the stuff that is at the bottom of the ultrasonic tank that I use to clean these bracelets and cases in. Just imagine a dirty jelly like slime, and you'll get the idea.

So yes, please do your watchmaker a favour, and clean the watch up a bit before you send it in - we would all appreciate that.

Cheers, Al

PS - I am a strap guy, and now you know one reason why.

 

Now that's just not fair. A lug can grow hair and I can't.

Hallelujah brother!

 

Al, what is your suggestion to clean up the case & bracelet (especially vintage watch with questionable water resistance):
Hot water + mild soap?
70% alcohol?
Windex?

After I saw your picture above, I imagine all the dirt and sweat collected and hidden during its life for vintage/ second hand watch.
Now I am scheduling to clean my watch collection.........one by one.........

 

Well ideally you want to clean the case and bracelet in an ultrasonic tank. Of course the movement must be removed from the case to do this. Ultrasonics are coming down in price so it's not unreasonable for the collector to have one for cleaning needs. Even if you don't use it for the watch head, it has value for cleaning bracelets.

If you don't have an ultrasonic, I would remove the bracelet and clean it using a toothbrush, some sort of soap, and water. I would recommend soaking the bracelet in soapy water for a while to loosen the dirt - the surface dirt is easily cleaned off, but the dirt inside the bracelet not so much. Even using an ultrasonic, I often have to run bracelets through it several times to get them clean.

The watch head, if you are not going to remove the movement, I would use a toothpick or something like that to manually scrape away heavy dirt, then use a damp cloth with just water to wipe away anything that remains.

Cheers, Al

 

Thanks........... I'll check Ultrasonic machine. meanwhile a soft toothbrush will be my choice for bracelet, and qtip/ toothpick for head.

 

I have to say mine has gotten pretty bad, However soap and a tooth brush cleaned it up pretty well.

 

By the way, how often do you guys clean up your bracelets? Being a newbie on this front (2 weeks since my purchase, hehe) I don't have the experience yet. And also, do you always remove the bracelet before cleaning up? I don't have the tools to do so myself, so I'd need to clean up the entire watch. Of course, owning a Seamaster 300m diver helps here a bit, as I don't - presumably - have to be too afraid of the watch head, but still I'd like to

a) keep my bracelet nice clean, and I suppose a regular cleaning would make my life easier
b) not do any harm to the watch while cleaning it

 

I haven't even started yet. But it is in my to do list. I will focus on my daily wearer first. I will do it probably once every 3 to 6 months.

 

Calling Archer! Would you repeat what was said a few posts above?