Speedmaster pre-moon alpha hands, real? value?

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Thank you. so you think the condition would be considered somewhere between good and very good? based on the reference chart provided above and your estimate.
also, do you think it's the original bracelet even though it seems that by the numbers, they are representing two different dates? sorry, pretty new to this 😀
thanks again.

Actually I’d say perhaps slightly less than 20k. I was looking at your pics in the garden in the sun and hadn’t noticed the extent of the lume loss.
That said, the sp101 price chart is head only and your bracelet has significant value so I’d still say it’s worth around 18-20k.
The market is soft at the minute though so as mentioned above, it’s impossible to say “it’s worth $x” as ultimately it depends what a buyer is willing to pay.
 
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Given the lume loss on the dial, I'd be hard pressed to call the condition GOOD. The rest of the watch does look to be in good condition. Still a desirable model and a great heirloom.

I'm not sure I understand the question about the bracelet and two different dates. Can you clarify? I see a 1.61 date code.

Agreed. If the lume was intact, it could be approaching very good, but as is, it is closer to good. With that said, insurance valuations are typically higher than retail prices on the open market, so a $20k evaluation for insurance purposes is not out of line. However, I don’t know of any insurance company that will take your word for the value — they generally want a written appraisal from an expert. My local jeweler does this for a nominal fee (last time I had it done, it was about $150, but that was some time ago). The OP should probably do something similar if he intends to insure it.

It’s a very nice piece. Enjoy it!
 
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Thank you very much. so insuring it for 20k is adequate, you think? and do you think I should have it serviced or just keep it locked up as it is now? should I wind it, leave it be? thanks again

It's a lovely watch, and would wear wonderfully in many contexts.. It would be a real shame for it to be locked away🙁
 
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2998’s have lost all the speculative interest in they commanded three years ago, when profit motivated buyers bought watches with issues at what they thought were bargain prices, hoping to sell to “Greater Fools”.

It’s much easier to value a $50,000 example than a $20,000 one. The 50k one is near perfect, correct, indisputably original, and attractive. Anyone with a brain and a little due diligence should be able to do that. The 10-20k example will have issues, that you have to find a buyer willing to accept those imperfections, and each 10-20k watch will be different. Everyone knows what a 50k watch ought to look like, making accurate judgements on the lesser watch is much harder.

This watch is down in the $10-$20,000 range in today’s market. It is possibly worth more depending on the dial surface condition which I can’t see from the photographs. But really I think the markers hold it back,

The bracelet and end links on this watch used to sell for a very large amount of money, I have seen this combination change hands for $10,000, but I don’t think that is true today. In fact, I think it’s possibly worth less than half that, but I don’t know since the market is so thin that I haven’t seen them sell recently.

One of the comments I often get when I give these lower values is “well I can’t find anything for that price - will you sell it to me?”. Well of course not. just because I think something isn’t worth very much doesn’t mean I want to sell something similar for that amount.

Markets as thin as the Speedmaster market are extremely difficult to work in. Especially the early speedmasters like 2998’s, and 2915’s. If you go looking for something, you will be charged a full price, but if you’re patient and wait, things can come along at the right price - or not. What happened over last six years was that various buyers became overexcited about Speedmaster‘s monetary potential and competed for the rare things. As it turned out, I think potential market makers overestimated the size of the Speedmaster market, and I think there are a lot of 2998s sitting in amateur dealers stock, all waiting to try and sell, if the market turns in their favour. (Check windows in Burlington Arcade).

The thing many people have overlooked, is attraction. Just because a 2998 ticks all the boxes doesn’t mean it is valuable, or desirable. Sometimes a watch’s attraction is the fact it is cheap.

A fun thing to do in terms of valuation is this. Look at the OP watch. Three years ago it might have been offered for $30,000. It might not have sold, but I remember similar being offered. I think, three years ago, it would have sold for 20.

This is how I come to my own value:

how much would the price be for me to have to buy it? Start at $5,000. Yes, I have to buy it at 5,000.

now creep up, 6? Yes, 7, yes. 10? Ooooo. Not really. Depends how i feel. 12? Definitely not. Why? It’s not attractive to go higher today.

For other people their numbers will be different, maybe higher, maybe much higher. Some might not wobble till 15,000.

If I want to sell a watch, I have always thought it should be around 10% less than market to sell. If I offer it 10% over market it won’t sell. The real nightmare for a seller is to “chase the market downward” offering his watch at just over market, then adjusting it downward over time, but always to just over market so it never actually sells.

what do I think this is worth?

12,000

what is it to replace? 22,000, because you would be forced to go looking.
 
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Just to be clear, there are still 2998’s worth 50,000

but it’s not this one
 
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I don't have much extra cash for insuring it but I know how devastated I would feel if something were to happen to it while in my care.
In that case, a safe deposit box in a local bank would probably be a better use of your funds than insurance, IMO. The former would be less expensive and would actually provide some measure of safety (not perfect obviously), and you can't insure sentimental value.
Edited:
 
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Thank you. so you think the condition would be considered somewhere between good and very good? based on the reference chart provided above and your estimate.
also, do you think it's the original bracelet even though it seems that by the numbers, they are representing two different dates? sorry, pretty new to this 😀
thanks again.
again, sorry. I didn't mean to push, I just thought I should know the value of something I now possess and will care for. thanks again for your help.
Try to solve Omega Extract to be more serrius of fatcs, bracelt can be side job when Extract be issued.
I have 2x 2998-5.
Best reg
Bassem
 
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Actually I’d say perhaps slightly less than 20k. I was looking at your pics in the garden in the sun and hadn’t noticed the extent of the lume loss.
That said, the sp101 price chart is head only and your bracelet has significant value so I’d still say it’s worth around 18-20k.
The market is soft at the minute though so as mentioned above, it’s impossible to say “it’s worth $x” as ultimately it depends what a buyer is willing to pay.

Thank you again 😀
 
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Agreed. If the lume was intact, it could be approaching very good, but as is, it is closer to good. With that said, insurance valuations are typically higher than retail prices on the open market, so a $20k evaluation for insurance purposes is not out of line. However, I don’t know of any insurance company that will take your word for the value — they generally want a written appraisal from an expert. My local jeweler does this for a nominal fee (last time I had it done, it was about $150, but that was some time ago). The OP should probably do something similar if he intends to insure it.

It’s a very nice piece. Enjoy it!

Thank you very much!
 
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It's a lovely watch, and would wear wonderfully in many contexts.. It would be a real shame for it to be locked away🙁

I wish the bracelet was big enough but it's about an inch short. would you add an extender or just leave it be? I don't think I'd be able to afford extra links, if they were available, given what some said about their cost. plus, I think I'd be too nervous wearing a piece like this, I usually don't wear any watches over about $300.
 
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2998’s have lost all the speculative interest in they commanded three years ago, when profit motivated buyers bought watches with issues at what they thought were bargain prices, hoping to sell to “Greater Fools”.

It’s much easier to value a $50,000 example than a $20,000 one. The 50k one is near perfect, correct, indisputably original, and attractive. Anyone with a brain and a little due diligence should be able to do that. The 10-20k example will have issues, that you have to find a buyer willing to accept those imperfections, and each 10-20k watch will be different. Everyone knows what a 50k watch ought to look like, making accurate judgements on the lesser watch is much harder.

This watch is down in the $10-$20,000 range in today’s market. It is possibly worth more depending on the dial surface condition which I can’t see from the photographs. But really I think the markers hold it back,

The bracelet and end links on this watch used to sell for a very large amount of money, I have seen this combination change hands for $10,000, but I don’t think that is true today. In fact, I think it’s possibly worth less than half that, but I don’t know since the market is so thin that I haven’t seen them sell recently.

One of the comments I often get when I give these lower values is “well I can’t find anything for that price - will you sell it to me?”. Well of course not. just because I think something isn’t worth very much doesn’t mean I want to sell something similar for that amount.

Markets as thin as the Speedmaster market are extremely difficult to work in. Especially the early speedmasters like 2998’s, and 2915’s. If you go looking for something, you will be charged a full price, but if you’re patient and wait, things can come along at the right price - or not. What happened over last six years was that various buyers became overexcited about Speedmaster‘s monetary potential and competed for the rare things. As it turned out, I think potential market makers overestimated the size of the Speedmaster market, and I think there are a lot of 2998s sitting in amateur dealers stock, all waiting to try and sell, if the market turns in their favour. (Check windows in Burlington Arcade).

The thing many people have overlooked, is attraction. Just because a 2998 ticks all the boxes doesn’t mean it is valuable, or desirable. Sometimes a watch’s attraction is the fact it is cheap.

A fun thing to do in terms of valuation is this. Look at the OP watch. Three years ago it might have been offered for $30,000. It might not have sold, but I remember similar being offered. I think, three years ago, it would have sold for 20.

This is how I come to my own value:

how much would the price be for me to have to buy it? Start at $5,000. Yes, I have to buy it at 5,000.

now creep up, 6? Yes, 7, yes. 10? Ooooo. Not really. Depends how i feel. 12? Definitely not. Why? It’s not attractive to go higher today.

For other people their numbers will be different, maybe higher, maybe much higher. Some might not wobble till 15,000.

If I want to sell a watch, I have always thought it should be around 10% less than market to sell. If I offer it 10% over market it won’t sell. The real nightmare for a seller is to “chase the market downward” offering his watch at just over market, then adjusting it downward over time, but always to just over market so it never actually sells.

what do I think this is worth?

12,000

what is it to replace? 22,000, because you would be forced to go looking.


Thank you for this great info! I'm not planning on selling it but I'm glad I now have a much better idea of it's value and how this process works. Learning a lot, thanks!
 
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You can always buy an aftermarket band from Uncle Seiko or Forstner. Or you could put it on a nice leather strap, it will look good on just about anything.
 
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In that case, a safe deposit box in a local bank would probably be a better use of your funds than insurance, IMO. The former would be less expensive and would actually provide some measure of safety (not perfect obviously), and you can't insure sentimental value.

I was considering this option, thank you. now that I know much more about this piece, I don't think I'd have a problem stowing it away securely, as you suggested.
 
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...

The thing many people have overlooked, is attraction. Just because a 2998 ticks all the boxes doesn’t mean it is valuable, or desirable. Sometimes a watch’s attraction is the fact it is cheap.
...

+1
 
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Let us know when you get a watch shop to give you an appraisal for insurance. There are others here who might make use of your information. Your are indeed very fortunate to own this desirable Omega.
 
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I wish the bracelet was big enough but it's about an inch short. would you add an extender or just leave it be? I don't think I'd be able to afford extra links, if they were available, given what some said about their cost. plus, I think I'd be too nervous wearing a piece like this, I usually don't wear any watches over about $300.

If it was me and I couldn't afford extra links then I'd probably go for Something like a Forstner flat link, I have one of these on a 67 and the quality is surprisingly good (https://forstnerbands.com/collectio...-for-omega-speedmaster?variant=32297164800055) and keep the original if ever I decided to sell; alternatively, I might sell the bracelet for pretty good money, especially if resale is not so important.😉
 
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For anyone following and wondering, this watch was given a Good+ rating (possibly more, not less) by a universally trusted source, which was based on pics and vids, not in person. I will keep it safe and secure and will treasure it until it's my turn to pass it down. Thanks to everyone for all of your help, advice and general watch wisdom, I learned a lot and I greatly appreciate it.
 
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For anyone following and wondering, this watch was given a Good+ rating (possibly more, not less) by a universally trusted source, which was based on pics and vids, not in person.
I don't know if anyone is universally trusted, but I'm curious if you know who @Spacefruit is, who commented above. Since this whole discussion of value vs. rating is based on his pricing guide, his valuation estimate would seem to make the rating somewhat moot. 📖

TBA, assigning a single rating score is arbitrary (and perhaps meaningless) for a watch like this one, which has some VG components but a dial with problems. The point of rating is valuation, and as noted above, it's really going to depend on what someone will pay. Over the years, we've seen many watches listed with flawed or restored dials, and unfortunately they don't sell easily. OTOH, for an insurance value, you would want to put a high number on it so that you could replace it quickly at dealer pricing.

As you noted, the best thing to do is to keep it dry and safe to avoid further degradation in the coming years. I would be happy to have this as a family heirloom. Hopefully these vintage watches will still be interesting and desirable to people in the future.
Edited:
 
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Just to be clear, there are still 2998’s worth 50,000

but it’s not this one
Well what do you know 😉
 
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I don't know if anyone is universally trusted, but I'm curious if you know who @Spacefruit is, who commented above. Since this whole discussion of value vs. rating is based on his pricing guide, his valuation estimate would seem to make the rating somewhat moot. 📖

TBA, assigning a single rating score is arbitrary (and perhaps meaningless) for a watch like this one, which has some VG components but a dial with problems. The point of rating is valuation, and as noted above, it's really going to depend on what someone will pay. Over the years, we've seen many watches listed with flawed or restored dials, and unfortunately they don't sell easily. OTOH, for an insurance value, you would want to put a high number on it so that you could replace it quickly at dealer pricing.

As you noted, the best thing to do is to keep it dry and safe to avoid further degradation in the coming years. I would be happy to have this as a family heirloom. Hopefully these vintage watches will still be interesting and desirable to people in the future.


I was just following up since I had mentioned earlier I was looking into it and waiting to hear back, for anyone that may have been curious. what's important to me is that it wasn't a fake or thrown together with mixed parts or similar and that I learned much more about what I had than I knew before. details are important in understanding something complex like this, especially for someone with no real previous knowledge of Omega. the various charts and reference guides were difficult to use when I didn't really know what I was looking at. learning the details and condition, etc., helped me fill in the many blanks, just for my own personal knowledge and curiosity.

I wasn't sure why it seemed strange to some that I wanted to know the value/worth, I know the value of everything else I own, why would this watch be different? I mean, people line up to find this out at every Antiques Roadshow don't they? I think it's good to know even if I don't want to sell it.

I do the same for anything I possess that I don't know a lot about. I'm interested in Japanese swords and sword craft and knowing the finer details helps me enjoy it more and become better at what I do but also helps me if and when I do want to buy or sell something. I can learn a lot through books but I also find it very helpful to ask those that know more. anyway, rambling now. thanks again