A thought occurred to me whilst I'm waiting for a bezel removal tool to arrive.

What actually 'binds' the Bezel to the crystal - is it just pressure, do both parts equally share the load, or is a clean bezel the primary source? What would happen if the crystal was polished out of shape - presumably it wouldn't hold?

Is anyone aware of load tests that show how often a bezel could theoretically be removed form a crystal before wear starts to appear on either component? Wasn't planning on running this particular test, but I was curious about it.

 

I think you are going to be in for a surprise when you remove the bezel and see how it is actually attached.

 

The bezel doesn't attach to the crystal at all. It attaches directly to the case.

 

Awwww ... you ruined the surprise.

 

Ahhhh, so no wear on the crystal at all... Very interesting!

 

You don't really need a "tool" as such - just any old gaming chips you have lying around will do ;-)

 

and the confidence that you won't bu**er up the watch. . Given my general cack handedness.... the poker chip isn't my best option.

 

Only use the special Omega tool.

 

This video has been circling around OF for years and I can’t recall anyone else actually removing a bezel in this manner. It is believed that this method was invented by the speedmaster101 proprietor, @Spacefruit, when he badly miscalculated his finances and needed an alternative (his Black Base 1000 bezel) to backup a Macau poker bet.

 

And he uses a $100 chip now due to bezel price rises.

 

I actually ended up using the rubber back of a large screwdriver in place of the poker chip to do my bezel disassembly. I did however have a small watchmaker's hammer. The method works like a charm!

 

I made that video when I was the best watchmaker for several hundred miles radius. So it was do it myself or wait 4 months. And then another 4 months till I could collect. So I taught myself several "skills" - I use quotes as my skill level is not high. I even learned to fit hands and dials - but here is what I learned:

Give myself more time than I could possibly think I need. For example I would not sit down to remove a bracelet without an hour where I knew I was not going to be disturbed - if i did it in 10 minutes, great. But I was amazed at the simple things that could block a task, and then if was impatient in any way, then damage could occur. So loads of time, no kids no wife. I found it very relaxing.

I learned to be prepared to put it down and walk away - either for good and send to the watchmaker on 4 month turnaround, or just till the next day or hour.

Never, ever, do it for anyone else.

Today, back in so called civilization, I will occasionally remove a bezel, and I will have one or two goes at putting it on, and then its straight off to Simon Freese to do it properly. Out of interest, he removes speedmaster bezels with a knife (and a cloth!)

What I have learned putting the bezels on, is that some will fit, with a click, and some will not click and be loose. Others will not go on at all, too tight. All of these issues are resolved by Simon when he "adjusts" them. To be honest, nowadays I only remove incorrect bezels, and then I can match up a replacement loosely on the watch to see how it looks, then its off to Simon.

I might also add that back then, when a good DO90 might reach $500, changing them was a different story to the $4000-5000 we see them valued at today.

 

Hey, look it! The bezel attaches to the case not the crystal!

Thanks for the guidance folks!

 

In your opinion is it necessary to remove the movement before using the poker chip method? I'm considering learning how to do this for myself and want to know if I should go with the poker chip method or the special removal tool... although if I can get it off with a case knife and cloth, that would be fine, I already have those lying around. Thanks!

 

The poker chip method only works with a $10.000 chip. Kind regards. Achim

 

Lol but seriously do you need a certain thickness chip or what

 

No, chip wont work.