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  1. John Chris Il Duca de Luca Feb 24, 2013

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    A De Luca up for sale on eBay has excited some comment on the eBay thread, so I thought it a good time to start a thread on this wonderful series.

    "De Luca" is actually a nickname, the name of Zenith's chief agent for Italy at the time, who inspired the original design. Beginning in 1988, this was Zenith's first major new series after the resurrection of the El Primero. The original series ("De Luca I") is characterized by 40mm steel cases with uni-directional rotating black diver's bezel (matte finish until the 4th generation when it became glossy), and either black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. The first series generation came with brown leather straps. The steel De Luca bracelet was optional.

    Many think the first generation black-faced version, ref. 01.0042.400 (1,025 produced, 1988-89) was the prettiest. Mine has silver sub-dials, though they also came with white sub-dials. The dial design harkened back to the A277 manual chronograph. The crowns are plain and slightly domed:
    IMG_0201.jpg IMG_2431.jpg

    The companion white-dial version, ref. 01.0043.400 (790 produced 1988-89) had a different dial design. Note that both of this first generation are marked only "Automatic". The name "El Primero" did not appear again until the next generation. Both of these models are engraved 01.0040.400. The dial reference was not engraved on the watch. Mine has its original brown leather strap:

    IMG_0572.jpg

    In 1990, Zenith proceeded in three different directions with the De Lucas. The second generation of the De Luca I series (an example is the one on the eBay thread) underwent a significant change in dial design, for both white and black versions. The hour markers became round, and "Mercedes" style hands were adopted. This design was maintained through the third and fourth generations, the only changes being to the crown and pushers (ending with screw-down versions in generation 4). The fourth and last generation (1994-96) also changed the bezel material. Mine, ref. 02.2313.400, was purchased in 1995 in Germany (not by me). The series ended in 1996 and was succeeded by the Rainbow series in 1997. My white-dialled example of the last generation:

    IMG_2433.jpg

    Also in 1990, Zenith issued some "special models" including two in gold and steel. My example is a ref. 89.0315.400, of which 530 were produced. The entire production was shipped to A. Cairelli in Rome. The bracelet is the typical De Luca I design, but with the centre pieces made of gold. Note the similarity in dial design with the black version of the first generation De Luca I:

    IMG_2436.jpg IMG_2439.jpg

    The third direction was the De Luca II series, produced in 1990-91. They are characterized by sturdy fixed metal bezels with engraved tachymetre scales and diamond-shaped markers. Two of them, in gold and steel (ref. 38.0395.400 - 200 produced 1990), and in steel with a blue dial (ref 01.305.400, 200 produced 1990), take their dial design cues from the white-dialled version of the first generation De Luca I. The bracelets are unique, and presage the Rainbow series design of 1997 and on:

    Vancouver-20110912-00009.jpg IMG-20111001-00045.jpg

    Finally, we have the De Luca IIs in steel with silver (more pearl-like) and black faces, using the sub-dial design from the 89.0315.400, and with matching engraved tachymetre scale. I have not yet found the black-faced one. Here is the silver version (675 produced, 1990-91). I invite you to compare it to the very pretty Rolex Daytona on the Rolex Forum for those who love to spend lots more money:
    http://omegaforums.net/threads/new-arrival-today-and-i-like-it.3347/

    View attachment 13074 View attachment 13074 IMG_2443.jpg

    In case you are wondering, I am rather fond of De Lucas. They were produced in small batches, and look fantastic, frequently earning compliments while on the wrist. Enjoy!

    Chris
     
  2. MMMD unaffiliated curmudgeonly absurdist & polyologist Feb 24, 2013

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    Great thread! Anything to the rumor that some the De Luca's caused friction with Rolex over similarities to design elements of the Sub?
     
  3. John Chris Il Duca de Luca Feb 24, 2013

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    I can't answer that question, though some among us named LouS have decried the 'Rolexization" of switching to Submarineresque Mercedes hands and round markers when Zenith had lovely designs of its own as exemplified in the first generation. Still, Zenith did it and stuck with it for seven years and three generations of the De Luca I series. So if Rolex was upset, Zenith doesn't seem to have minded much - telling Rolex to go develop its own automatic chronograph movement (maybe).
     
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  4. Gavin It's the quiet ones you have to 'watch' out for. Feb 24, 2013

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    Thanks John for a great thread!

    *Secretly going back to redraft my wishlist.*
     
  5. MMMD unaffiliated curmudgeonly absurdist & polyologist Feb 24, 2013

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    I always think of the A277 as the "Pre-Luca". :)
     
  6. danomar Feb 25, 2013

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    John, you read my mind! I was thinking of starting a De Luca appreciation thread, but alas, I have none to show off. Yet.

    This is non-Zenith but relevant to the discussion about design connections: One of the great watch bargains and, to my eye, a peer to the De Luca insofar as details go is the Lorenz Sub:

    [​IMG]

    Can you count up the De Luca and/or Rolex styling cues? The neat thing is that Lorenz released this watch in the early 1990's, possibly late 1980's, making it a contemporary of the De Luca.
     
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  7. ulackfocus Feb 25, 2013

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    Wow, I bet the Rolex loyalists have some insulting descriptions of those! Like that blue dial though.

     
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  8. LouS Mrs Nataf's Other Son Staff Member Feb 26, 2013

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    I agree with myself - simply feckless pandering on Zenith's part. I'll take a pristine Series 1 black dial like yours over all the rest.
     
  9. thekwaze Feb 7, 2015

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    Here's one taken earlier today - and it's for sale! IMG_0003.JPG
     
  10. thekwaze Feb 7, 2015

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    The De Luca is a sort of combination between Submariner and Daytona, but looks fantastic in it's own right.
    There are those that say why settle for a Daytona when you can have the real thing - that one always goes down well with Rolex fans.....
     
    Edited Feb 15, 2015
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  11. m neuman What, me worry? Feb 14, 2015

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    I am told there is a NOS with band,bracelet, box coming up at Sotheby's in there London sale in September for those hunting for a prime example. the estimate I am told is at a fair price of £2200-3000
     
  12. thekwaze Feb 15, 2015

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    I think 3k is low for a NOS - I would guess about 4k minimum to the right buyer.
    Certainly worth keeping an eye on!
     
  13. Tekashi_145.022 Jan 2, 2021

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    Hope it’s ok I revive this thread- there’s such great content and images that I thought it was worth posing a question here instead of starting a new thread, with the added benefit others could learn about the De Lucas. :thumbsup:

    I have somehow never heard of the De Luca until this week. I have been keeping my eye out for a diving chronograph with:

    • date complication
    • form factor along the lines of: 38-42mm diameter, bracelet, thickness of a Sub or Speedy, etc. (in other words - not the hockey puck-sized Seamster chronos that OMEGA makes today).
    • an historic brand or model
    • availability of replacement parts (so I can wear the watch instead of babying it ;))

    Ideally, the chrono could be operated underwater, or feature screw-down crowns to prevent accidental engagement of the chronograph in the water.

    I was convinced nothing would ever check all of these boxes until I saw the De Luca! WOW. Can anyone speak to the availability of parts? Can new ones be ordered from Zenith? Or, has Zenith ever mentioned reviving this line?
     
  14. Medinatalzahra Jan 2, 2021

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    As De Lucas are El Primeros, you can source movement parts for them. Replacement pushers/crowns can be found as well.

    As described in the thread above, most collectors favor the first series - particularly with the black dial. However, if you are genuinely looking to use this in the water, you may want to consider buying a third series. Reference 02.2312.400 for the black dial; 02.2313.400 for the white dial. (See the photo from thekwaze above). This model has both screw down pushers and a screw down crown. Expect to pay ~US$5000 to US$6000. Also, make sure you get it pressure tested and inspected by a watchmaker before you put it in the water -- something most collectors (myself included) are too cautious to do.

    I own a second series, 02.0312.400, and really love this watch. It is extremely versatile to wear. You will not regret a purchase of any De Luca.

    Best of luck, and make sure you post some photos on what you land on!!!

    Best, M
     
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  15. Jkuback Jan 3, 2021

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    De Luca indeed ticks all boxes - great package imho. Outstanding movement, great quality with awesome design, date bezel and chrono - it has it all ::stirthepot::

    One of my favorite watches - you can't go wrong buying one. Just be aware of the condition!

    IMG_20200804_102735_exported_2875805291636865645-01.jpeg
     
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  16. siguzzi Feb 27, 2022

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  17. cicindela Steve @ ΩF Staff Member Feb 27, 2022

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    OK, perhaps not a De Luca, but I lump it right in there, is my favorite the “ Mango-Mango !

    mine.

    upload_2022-2-27_14-29-33.jpeg
     
  18. georgeszaslavsky Apr 3, 2022

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    the Delucas have been skyrocketing in prices lately, it is a probably a pièce I will add in my collection
     
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  19. cineaste Sep 28, 2022

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    What are the prices lately?
    I only found one recently sold for 4.5K

    https://www.ebay.de/itm/255742146441Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network