Some questions regarding 1039/516 and 1175/640 bracelets.

Posts
6,539
Likes
21,180
However, I'd recommend getting the Forstner flat-link instead, it's all the look but a fraction of the cost and has the additional benefit of being a bit sturdier-feeling (though I need to add that I had never had any problems with any of the 1039s I owned)

CDBB6A92-2E50-4A24-BC4C-F0D08EF2707C.jpeg
 
Like 5
Posts
1,010
Likes
1,946
My 145.022-69 came on what I assume is the original 1039/516 bracelet based on its otherwise original condition. The clasp is stamped 3 70, watch serial number starts with 305.

I like the 1039 bracelet. A bonus for me was that the one that came with my watch fit my 8" wrist and was in great condition.
 
Like 1
Posts
5,012
Likes
15,274
it's all the look

Clearly you are not as pedantic as some of us :whistling: I notice those a mile away and they just look wrong … all shiny-shiny and brand new … also there is something else different with the aesthetic …
 
Like 2
Posts
10,852
Likes
19,061
Doesn’t really add to what’s been said but my early -69 with DON bezel had a 1039 stamped 1/70
 
Like 1
Posts
11,497
Likes
36,742

Not arguing. But perfection is the enemy of good enough...

Clearly you are not as pedantic as some of us :whistling: I notice those a mile away and they just look wrong … all shiny-shiny and brand new … also there is something else different with the aesthetic …

You can get them brushed, and they will wear in like any old bracelet in due time. I don't really notice as much on mine. Again though, fraction of the price - so sure, you'll be giving up something there. I just think the tradeoff is more than worth it.
 
Like 2
Posts
1,010
Likes
1,946
All watch bracelets were brand new once and shiny. The US and Forstner bracelets are new-old bracelets. Wear them long enough and they'll stop looking new. If you're just going for the aesthetic, they can clash a bit, sure. On the other hand, they're pretty cheap and I wouldn't care too much if I busted one.
 
Like 2
Posts
6,457
Likes
76,265
Thanks to all for the inputs! :thumbsup:

Via recommendations from others here, other information from here and MWO information, and because of the very late production date [30JAN74] of my 145.022-71 which the OEFTA indicates was fitted with a 1039/516, it’s logical to seek a no date 1039 if I decide to go that route. Meanwhile, the period correct no date 1175/640 is doing a fine job. :thumbsup:

1D5071E7-FC07-494A-9E1E-EB6DB37D926B.jpeg
Edited:
 
Like 3
Posts
10,852
Likes
19,061
Revisiting this thread as I’ve bought a couple of very original -71’s recently and the various bracelet options got my inner geek going.

The first is a 31,6xxxxx serial, which according to ilovemyspeedmaster dates to Aug 71. It came with a 1039 that I fully believe to be original, with a 3 71 date stamp.

The second also has a 31,6xxxxx serial dating slightly earlier to June 71. This one has an 1175/640 which I again believe to be original and is date stamped 1 71.

The third has a 31,3xxxxx dating April 71 and is back to a 1039, again beloved original with a 4 71 date stamp.

There’s a couple of things I take from this.
1. 1039’s and 1175’s crossed over for a period (also suggested by the chart) and both can be contemporary to a -71.
2. Contrary to the widely held view that bracelets were often added at the point of sale, perhaps months or years after the watch was produced, this (albeit small sample) suggests that certainly during times when the Speedmaster was selling well (ie after the moon landings), the date stamp on the bracelet could correspond closely with the production date of the watch. Obviously the actual sale date could still be some time after both the watch and bracelet we’re produced.
 
Like 3