and I understand that. Chances are pretty good you will end up throwing good money after bad, and very frustrated. Still, if the price is right, and it is a watch I have a particular interest in, I will take a swing.
I have a weakness for Semaster Chronometers (for the noobs, they are much less common than their Connie brethren), and especially for the "Jumbo" models. So I decided to take a chance on this:




Waiting patiently for something like this:



Good case and appropriate ref #, and excellent 333 movement:





Which merged into this:



Not a home run, but for little more than the cost of a regular size, non-chronometer version, IMHO at least an extra base hit.

 

Are you talking about ref 2519?

I think that dial was refinished wrongly and the rotor of that movement is not correct, it needs Adjusted five (5) positions and temperatures stamped on the rotor.

Here is my 2519_ cal 333 with correct rotor.

 

Apologies for not including in the original post, but case reference is 2493. And based on this prior discussion, I think the rotor is correct:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/2493-3.37518/
The dial seems consistent with the others of the same case ref # to me, but will defer to the experts.

 

Buying a project watch often turns out to be a money pit but can work out if you pick a watch that is sound mechanically but needs some aesthetic improvements. Finding and replacing parts is what can turn a project watch into a costly nightmare. I wouldn’t take on a project unless you know a reliable and honest watchmaker that has access to omega parts.

I bought this Seamaster that had a badly damaged dial as a project watch with the intention of having the movement (which was in relatively good condition) serviced and the dial refinished. In total, I spent less than $500 USD for the watch, servicing and dial refinishing for what turned out to be a very attractive, Don Draper inspired Seamaster

 

Project watches Is pretty much all I buy. Some of them.

 

Then there are these, but there are plenty more, but neither of us has the time.

 

Now that’s the way to get a Draper Seamaster.

I can’t count the number of threads asking whether or not a redialed black Seamaster was authentic. And none of them were only $500...

 

That redial was damn good. Where did you get it done?