So it turns out I regretted selling my Pepsi 1675. I wore it a lot for almost a year before I made the poor decision of selling it. I can't get it back so now I must find another one, and will be keeping it. I found this one, but being a Rolex n00b I have limited knowledge. Based on what I have read, the dial, the big red GMT hand, and the foldy bracelet make this a 70's example. The bezel insert looks too new to my eyes. I love the color of the dial indices and hands, but not sure if they have been re-colored. The dial markings look distorted, but I'm not sure if it's because of the scratchy dial.

Its in poor shape mechanical, the bezel does not turn smoothly and winds roughly according to the listing. Good thing I have developed contacts in the West Coast that can bring this back to good mechanical shape at a reasonable price. The case though dirtly looks to be clear of major damage.

What I do not like is the bezel insert color, I'd rather have one in Pepsi (or maybe in burgundy, and then dispose of my Black Bay Red) - is this a reasonable thing to do? And if so, what sort of damage to the pocket am I looking at? The bracelet is also too short by about a link or 2, how much are links?

 

Case looks nice.
Red 24 hand, always give doubts.
Those insert don't fade the same way and probably come from an early 16750. But looks correct.
Overall a nice start if price is nice.
Good luck.

 

GMT Master History is agreat place to start.

http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/

 

Be very careful when buying a 1675 matte with an all red GMT hand, they were only fitted to a very narrow serial range in the early 70's. I've generally heard a Mk 1 or Mk 2 are both ok, but I believe this dial is a Mk 4 so most likely too late for one. The dial would suggest a serial around 5XXXXXX, so late 70's. Finding a correct red back Pepsi bezel insert will cost you a minimum of $750 most likely, and they only go up from there. Extra links aren't too bad if it's a 78360 oyster bracelet, a bit more if it's a 7836 folded link.

 

I wouldn't worry about the mechanical condition, as you say, you can get those things worked out, as well as buying another insert.
The red hand, the likely hood of it being real is doubtful but if you like it, just don't pay a premium. Most folks would not know the difference between a real and a fake, other than the color, and unless you have some very good high resolution pictures or have it out of the case, it will be difficult to tell.

So the question is, is the watch period correct? Someone has already commented that it is a Mk-4. Get the partial serial number of the watch and see if it aligns, also see if there is a date stamp on the case back..

Adding folded links could run you a couple hundred dollars, which I would send to Michael Young to do the job.. Does the bracelet have a date stamp?

Sounds like you want this watch to be a certain way so just weigh the cost of bringing it up to par, a nice project you can take pride in, or just buy one that is ready to wear and the price may or may not be much higher..

If you get some of this information and would like to verify, keep posting on the thread and plenty of folks with knowledge that can help you out..

Good luck!

 

For this watch, I won't be able to get additional information. The bracelet is 7836. I think it will fit, depending upon how the bracelet was measured - if measured by mandrel it will work, if measured by ruler it will be short by 1/2"

Now the red back Pepsi bezel, also the dial? I have the Isnardi books and have gmtmasterhistory bookmarked but I don't think these things are covered?

 

MK 4's are highly desirable dials, so even if it's off, you got yourself a nice dial! As for the insert, I personally love the black but if you must have a Pepsi then my suggestion is to be on the lookout on either eBay or TRF as they're constantly up for sale. They start at $700 and go up to $4K for fuchsia. Pepsi Mega Fat Font's are getting harder and harder to come by, expect to pay $2K for one.

Best of luck.

 

I like HQ Milton in San Francisco if you look at the GMT Master section they give lots of great information on each watch that might be useful, I think their prices are fair and I bet given your business in NYC they would hook you up if you just called

 

The dial is a vintage dial, the only question is does it fit the generally accepted serial range on the case? This is kind of a tricky issue to solve really. Rolex likes to play let's keep a secret with all of their proprietary production information, so there is no "extract" to get like Omega telling you if a watch is put together or original. As @TTG said above, if you want the watch to be all original then you may have to replace this vintage dial for a different one, but you may not, you would need to see the serial between the lugs and the date stamp in the case back if it has one. I believe Rolex stopped putting date stamps in the case backs around 1972. The 7836 folded link bracelet with 280 end links is perfected acceptable for any of the matte dial 1675, so you should be fine there unless it doesn't fit.
The main number one question you should ask yourself first is, do you like the way it looks as is? These are getting so expensive now that if you are going to buy it then try to change a lot of parts your cost will add up very very fast. I personally prefer the Pepsi insert as well, but the black looks very nice too. Also don't forget, and I'm sure you know this being in the business, but even though these are getting very expensive, there are a ton of them around, it's not like a 321 speedy, you will find what you're looking for eventually. Good luck!

 

I must say I like it! Looks like an honest specimen. Attractive case and dial

 

Is that the old school bakelite bezels?

Oyster links can be anywhere from $50-$100 depending on where you source em. You can always try and see how much a place like Tourneau will charge you when you tell them the watch is too tight. Also some of the trusted sellers on the rolex forums may have extras that they may sell ya. Not sure how the selling works on this forum.

 

Bakelite, heck no! An original one of those will probably set you back around $15k, if you can even find one anywhere. It would be like finding an original steel base 1000 bezel from a 2915-1.

 

Well this one looks pretty good. Anything about this that I should worried about?

 

Any better pics? The writing looks cream colored in those pics...

 

Just need to know the serial number so you can verify it has the correct dial. Macro pics of the dial would help as well.

 

Better or more shots of the lugs please

 

OK more photos. I've asked about the serial. What year range should the dial be?

 

It is a Mk-4 dial, which would be appropriate on a Mid-late 1970s (a wide range).
Looks like a datejust jubilee.
Good luck!

 

What about the case? I see a big ding on the 7:00 lug. Not sure if the bevels are intact. Some material on the bezel looks to have been polished away. The lug itself, not sure if its fat or just the angle of the pic

 

The case certainly appears to have been polished in the past. The bracelet is not correct for a 1675 as alluded to above, it's close but correct for a DJ. It will only fit the smaller 1.8mm spring bars instead of the standard Rolex sport model 2.0mm spring bars. Really tough to tell if any of the original chamfers are still there from your photos. The date wheel should be brushed silver color for a Mk 4 dial with a 4-5 mil-ish serial, which I'm assuming this watch has. The bezel looks very nice, appears to be a red-backed version. All depends on the price and if B&P are included or not.