I having a hard time putting into words how I would want a vintage watch serviced.

Like all of us, I want it to be as original/vintage as possible with all scars left as is, but also look as good as it can. Also I would like it to be as water resistant as possible and to run as accurately as expected. And completely cleaned inside and out.

So how do I say that in watch-repairman terms?

 

The first thing you need to do is choose a watchmaker who is known for respecting and working on vintage pieces, and who will work with you to decide what you want done. The full scope of work should be discussed before you hand over the watch to someone.

The key is that you need to decide what you do and do not want replaced before you start this process. You say you want it to be as original as possible, but also want it to be as water resistant as possible. While this may seem very specific to you, it isn't to me.

A watch is either water resistant, or it isn't. There is no middle ground really when it comes to something like a Speedmaster, since they don't have a high water resistance to begin with. You need to decide if you value water resistance over originality, because it is unlikely you will get both. I can't stress enough though that even if you replace all the parts involved, so pushers, crown, case tube, case back gasket, and crystal, that the watch still might not have any water resistance. If the sealing surfaces are all pitted, then it won't seal by changing these parts.

With regards to the aesthetics, that is an easier thing to handle most of the time. Most of the time hands can be used again (sometimes there are issues, but those are rare, at least on vintage watches) and the crystal is a simple replacement. Just ask to have the dial and hands used again, and to have the crystal swapped.

Also, I never refinish a case, bracelet, etc. unless I'm asked to, but many watchmakers feel this is an essential part of a standard service. So always make sure you specify that you don't want any refinishing done.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Al

 

Archer,
This is very helpful for me as I just purchased my first vintage Speedster (145.022). I need to have a service as I don't know when the last was completed, and my local Omega certified watchmaker says I need to replace the crystal for him to guarantee the water resistance. The crystal isn't scratched, and I'm thinking I should just keep the current one Your thoughts? Is it normal to replace the crystal every time it is serviced? I'm wanting to keep the watch as original as possible, but I'm not even sure the crystal that is on it is the original (it is an Omega).
Thanks, Dave

 

Hello,
From a collector / marketing point of view, whenever I have any parts changed I ask the repairman to return all of the bad parts.

Reason one: no one is perfect and some individuals may force unnecessary repairs. As Al said you need to find a repairman that you can trust 100%. I always seek recommendations and reviews on best attributes from all of their known clients. I have watchmakers better at polishing, while others are more cost efficient for easy overhauls, finally I have the specialists who take months to get something done... But when it's done, it is perfect.

Reason two: they have a history to them and others might like that. Even if the crystal is damaged, a pusher is worn, a bezel insert faded, to someone it might be of interest. I separate these returned parts into little baggies/stronger plastics, when I choose to sell a piece I offer all of the parts kept. These parts are small and can fit in a tiny box, with a label on it it can be stored without too much inconvenience.

dbmilam - Keep that crystal if you choose to repair it. Depending on case + crystal construction there are varied forms seals, some have a gasket to help water resistance while other brands of watches have made their own efforts to improve water resistance through different means. Also, crystals ten to morph slightly over time, this can be caused by strong hits to the crystal, exposure to the climates, etc. Al can give you better advice being an Omega watchmaker himself.

Best of luck to you both on the repairs,
Pinzon

 

I've been in your shoes. I would advise that you prioritize your wish list, because you will most likely have to compromise. I would further suggest you put originality as your top priority for any vintage timepiece. If you want water resistance, buy a new watch.

 

It is not normal to replace the crystal at every service, at least for me. I would only replace it if there is a specific need to do so. So if the watch passes the pressure testing with the old crystal, and the crystal is in good shape, I see no need to change it really. There is no seal under an acrylic crystal, so unless there is cracking or some other reason given, it should be fine.

However every watchmaker has to make decisions on what they will warrant or not, so if he insists that the crystal must be changed for him to warrant the watch for water resistance, you have a choice to make. You can choose to have it changed and have the warranty, or not have it changed and not have the warranty, or find another watchmaker.

As noted, having a vintage watch serviced is often a series of compromises. Changing a crystal though is not a huge deal for most people, as the new crystals are not significantly different really.

Cheers, Al