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  1. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    Dear gentlemen,

    Recentely I have been offered an Omega Seamaster chronograph, reference 176.007 with a silver dial and blue hands.
    The seller is a friend of a friend of a friend, and he e-mailed me that it is a full set that is sold in 1980(?), including box/booklets/papers/bracelet and extra links. He also included some pictures of the watch, which I attached below.

    I hope that you guys could provide me with any advice on the state of this watch. For instance, it occured to me that the hand of the subdial at 9 is black, whilst it is blue in some other pictures that I have found of the 176.007.

    The pictures unfortunately don't get any better than this, for the seller is on holiday at the moment and can't take new ones.. Thanks in advance for your help, it is much appreciated.

    [​IMG]
     
    Edited Dec 3, 2015
  2. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    Edited Dec 3, 2015
  3. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    Yes, I think black at 9 and blue at 6 is more common on the silver dial version (but I'm no expert).

    Although it's interesting to know if a set-up is original or not, I wouldn't worry too much about the color of these hands if you're happy with everything else - I think the blue subdial hand is still available if you want to replace it.

    I had a very similar question about the hands on a 176.007 just the other day. All the hands were completely white (looked like they were from a "Mark" series Speedmaster). I was also just curious if the set-up was ever standard/offered. But as the price and overall condition was very appealing, I just went for it. The watch will arrive tomorrow morning - I may or may not put the "correct" hands on it. I'll wait and see what it looks like...

    Regarding hands, I'm sure a lot of people will say the big plus the example you've been offered has got going for it is the needle (syringe) minute hand!
     
  4. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    Also, is that a "scored out" 176.001 caseback? That would be consistent with the needle minute hand...
    And are those end links original to the 176.007? I know there were different end links offered, but 653 seems to be the "accepted" reference.

    (I don't really know what I'm talking about! It's just that I did a little reading myself this week as I bought the same model yesterday. Wait until the real experts come along! :) )
     
  5. gop76 Dec 3, 2015

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    Based on those pictures the watch seems good to me. Usually this model is selling for less than 1500 eur but, with the complete set, 1500 doesn't seem too much.

    Personally, based in what i'm seeing and for 1500 or trying a little less, i would pull the trigger
     
  6. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    On the one hand you are completely right (if you like what you see, go for it), but on the other hand.. I have found myself flipping watches after discovering the caseback was a later replacement. Don't want that happening again. ;) I have learned to do my research before buying. Couldn't say that I've done it with the Seamaster, but sometimes you stumble upon something that you like.
     
  7. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    I think I will, have just contacted the seller that I want to arrange a meeting to check it out in person.

    I love the fact that it is a full set. It even features a rally strap (aftermarket I guess?). Funny that it's only sold in 1980 though.. Thought these models were mostly sold in the 70-75's?
     
  8. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    Looking at those pics again, I would want clarification on the bracelet/end-links. There seems to be a lot of spring bar showing - as if the end links are for 20mm lug widths instead of 22mm. That's serious for scarcity and cost reasons. I could be totally wrong, but that area doesn't seem right to my - admittedly inexperienced - eyes.

    Regarding the subdial hand, though - this is easily and cheaply made "correct"...
     
  9. Andy K Dreaming about winning an OFfie one day. Dec 3, 2015

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    The correct hand is still available at Ofrei for less than $20, so that is no big deal. Without better pics I can't see the details of the dial and case, which would help determine a fair price. Just don't let the seller factor"complete set" into the price. Not that you should ever pay extra for box and papers in most circumstances, but that set doesn't seem quite right to me. I'm no box expert but 1980 seems too early for that box, and rather late for a cal. 1040 (though it is possible it sat on a shelf unsold for several years - especially in that era).
     
    Edited Dec 3, 2015
    Skv likes this.
  10. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    I am no box expert either, seller has inherited the watch and had no idea about whether box and bracelet were the original matching ones. He has no reason to believe they are not, since it was the only watch that the precious owner had. He was not specifically into watches.
     
  11. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    Valid point about the bracelet. Do you reckon that the bracelet itself is indeed an original Omega or rather an aftermarket bracelet? Might also be that only the end links are off in this case. End links do seem to be stamped with a certain code in the pictures. But there does seem to be too much space at the lugs.
     
    Edited Dec 3, 2015
  12. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    Don't be put off if the caseback does say 176.001; the 176.007 came immediately after it and they used 176.001casebacks initially. I think some, but not all, had the old number scored out.
     
    Edited Dec 3, 2015
  13. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    One thing about the bracelet I'm suspicious about is where is the foldover clasp?! The pictures show the bracelet opened out as if it's a strap with a buckle. I'm no bracelet expert, but it does look like an Omega, as do those end links - it's just that the end links look too small.

    For example, here's a picture of 20mm straight end links in a 20mm lug width (notice there is very little or no gap):

    [​IMG]

    In the pics you posted, you can see quite a significant gap - hence my guess they are 20mm end pieces in a 22mm lug width watch.

    Look up the end link number when you see the watch and find out its size and what it's from...
     
  14. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    Yes, I totally agree. The end links do not seem to fit the case. Indeed 20mm instead of 22mm. The bracelet itself however does seem to resemble the bracelet on your watch.
     
  15. Ken G Dec 3, 2015

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    That pic I posted is not actually the 1170 bracelet (from a 176.007).
    It's a 1171 with 20mm end piece in a 20mm lug watch; I was just using it as an example to show how there shouldn't be such a gap between the end link and the case.

    I do agree that's an Omega bracelet in the picture, though. It's good that you've arranged to meet the seller - I wouldn't buy that watch online without seeing a picture of the clasp (and better pictures of everything else).
     
  16. cvalue13 Dec 3, 2015

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    Not to self-promote my post (especially as others are starting to contribute much more info), but here's a review post on the 176.007:

    https://omegaforums.net/threads/176-007-and-cal-1040-family-review.32325/

    Meanwhile, below are better pictures of the watch and end-links. The case back at least signals a transitional 007 (with the previous 001 markings stricken through). While it's difficult to say anything definitive about these transitional' composition, this generally comports with the apparently earlier-style 'needle' hand, and silver-dial varient. On the other hand, the darker tachy ring, applied hour markers, black chrono-dial hands, and end-link/bracelet composition each sort of point to an 'unusual' whole picture.

    The box is almost definitely not original to a transitional model, which would have been produced around 71-72ish (according only to the case back). Paperwork generally is suspect to me in all cases, as blank cards can be later filled out, though in this case both the instructions manual (which would be correct for this watch) and the warranty card are in German, which offers some continuity of story. Here again regarding timing, though, it would be interesting for a transitional model in particular to have sat shelved until a 1980 sale, but not at all impossible.

    All in all, my intuition would be that this watch body is from an early transitional 007, and some pieces have been moved around/replaced over the years (chrono hands, tachy ring, and maybe even the dial itself), but with these 007s it is difficult to be definitive about color/dial combinations (except for those combinations seen often in period correct marketing materials). Due to the above, and since the case is in only OK to poor shape, I personally would only purchase this watch for a pretty good bargain price - though it would make a fine wearer without worrying about additional wear and marks on the case, etc.

    image.jpg
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    TNTwatch likes this.
  17. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    I am a bit put off by the flaking hand, incorrect box, and wrong bracelet. Need to sleep on it..
     
  18. Skv Dec 3, 2015

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    Found out that my seller Is probably a fraud, since he cannot produce better pictures while they are included in the ebay ad. That's definately off.

    Thanks for all considerations though! And on goes the search..
     
  19. deepcdweller Dec 4, 2015

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    I had have it once.. The same 176.007 but mine was in blue dial...
    It s a beauty vintage seamaster... But not so long I trade it with an blue dial Air King..
    [​IMG]
     
    Andy K likes this.
  20. TNTwatch Dec 5, 2015

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    Just adding some details to the great points by cvalue13, the hour recorder hand should be blue instead of black; the bracelet is a 1162/173 commonly goes with the Speedmaster MKII, the end links are not removable, it doesn't even fit properly; and the box definitely too new for this watch.

    Patient is always much valuable in searching for these kinds of watch.