Seamaster 2551.80 - Authentication help! - Odd dial font

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Dear all -
I can't decide if this is real after seeing it in-person. The watch dial font for "Professional Chronometer" is serif, versus sans-serif (example) for most listings I've seen online.

E.g., in the "L" in "Professional", there's a curve up at the end of the stroke. The only similar serif fonts I've seen is this at Chrono24 and this on SwissWatchExpo. The former looks like it has a service card.


If it helps, the serial number is 80029xxx (dating to 2006 from some sites but am not sure). The lume is also a bit yellow and the seconds hand is a bit faded, and running at -10s/d.
I would greatly appreciate your assistance!
 
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Also - dealer opened the caseback and serial on the movement matches the lug. Movement 1120 and 23 jewels. Unfort. didn't take any photos.
 
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8002XXX probably puts it at 2000 or 2001. Online serial databases are straight wrong. AND a date around that time would make sense- there was a different font used early in the 2531 run in 1995, that re-appeared briefly in 2000-2002 or so. Could be true for the midsize as well.

Here's another shot of a 2531 with font like yours:



From this thread also discussing the font variation:


I also don't think there was any sort of convincing fake of this model.
Edited:
 
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NOTE: that said, I do have some concerns... the bezel pip is wrong, and at minimum that is likely an aftermarket bezel insert (not uncommon). This has also been pretty heavily polished, and not well. The date wheel looks like it may be degrading (could just be the pictures) which could be an indicator some water got in there. These things would probably cause me to pass on this one- there are plenty of 2531s out there.
 
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@ErichPryde , thanks so much! Interesting to learn about the serif font, and looks like @bulldog77 has similar one from ~2001.

Adding a video for more clarity - is the issue that the bezel lume looks much newer? How bad is the bracelet?

This 2551 is $1900 and in otherwise decent condition, so thinking about it!
 
51_raw.mov - 25.7 MB
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So, the issue is that the PIP looks too low in the Triangle to me. When I see fake or replacement bezels, the circular pip almost always touches the sides because it is positioned too low within the triangle. If you look at a couple of real ones, you'll note that there is a space between the triangle and sides.

The other issue is that the pip lume appears to be the wrong color.

It's not uncommon to see replacements, Omega does not sell the insert separately and you have to replace the whole bezel so a lot of times aftermarket inserts get purchased if the insert is beaten up.

In the video you just posted that watch looks like it is in much better condition than the pictures led me to believe, could be bad quality pictures make the Finish look worse than it is.
 
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Noted with many thanks, @ErichPryde . It looks decent in person.

Last questions - are the bezels hard to turn on these / anyway to reduce the friction? And if I wanted to replace / repaint the second hand, how involved would that be? Really like the red in the original haha

Am leaning buying it!
 
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Noted with many thanks, @ErichPryde . It looks decent in person.

Last questions - are the bezels hard to turn on these / anyway to reduce the friction? And if I wanted to replace / repaint the second hand, how involved would that be? Really like the red in the original haha

Am leaning buying it!

The bezel doesn't have a lot of surface to grip, especially once the scalloped texture gets polished out a bit. It's more a matter of applying pressure with your hand and turning than it is gripping onto it.... kinda.

As far as the second hand goes, Omega updated the paint a handful of years after your model and it no longer fades. If it was me, I would probably budget the cost of a service (700 USD) because it is about 25 or so years old and I wouldn't trust the water resistance. Omega replaces the handset as a courtesy during service. It would also be a good opportunity to replace the bezel if it bothers you (although that would be extra).

Unless you are a qualified watchmaker or have experience disassembling these watches, it is a lot of work to get it apart enough to "repaint it" and these hands have very fine, polished steel surfaces which are incredibly easy to scratch ( Which is why Omega replaces them as a courtesy).

if you don't want to pay for a service now and the water resistance seems intact/watch is running well, I would probably live with the faded hand until you can service it. It has a certain amount of charm that way!
 
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That sounds like a plan. Thank you again Erich. Also didn't know they replaced the handset for free during service!
 
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So, the issue is that the PIP looks too low in the Triangle to me. When I see fake or replacement bezels, the circular pip almost always touches the sides because it is positioned too low within the triangle. If you look at a couple of real ones, you'll note that there is a space between the triangle and sides.

The other issue is that the pip lume appears to be the wrong color.

It's not uncommon to see replacements, Omega does not sell the insert separately and you have to replace the whole bezel so a lot of times aftermarket inserts get purchased if the insert is beaten up.
I think you are right Erich, its probably a replacement insert and its been mounted wrong. The pip should be next to a "top" not a scallope.
 
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Noted with many thanks, @ErichPryde . It looks decent in person.

Last questions - are the bezels hard to turn on these / anyway to reduce the friction? And if I wanted to replace / repaint the second hand, how involved would that be? Really like the red in the original haha

Am leaning buying it!
Hello @gskater4 and welcome to Omega forum.

Unfortunatly these bezels are all hard to grip. Cleaning and lubrication helps, but the problem is the way the bezel are made. That beautiful, low scalloped bezel is harder to grip than a boxy serrated bezel.
The best is to take the watch of and grip it hard at 1 and 7 and just turn the distance between the lugs, befor getting a new grip.

Good luck with your Seamaster.
 
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Thanks @hen . Would this be a dealbreaker? If not, what would be a fair discount / cost to fix?
 
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Thanks @hen . Would this be a dealbreaker? If not, what would be a fair discount / cost to fix?
Not for me, use it to haggle.

I dont know the price of a new bezel and insert, have it changed as part of the service in 5 years time. Any watchmaker with an Omega parts account can do it, if you dont go all in send send it to Omega.
 
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Not for me, use it to haggle.

I dont know the price of a new bezel and insert, have it changed as part of the service in 5 years time. Any watchmaker with an Omega parts account can do it, if you dont go all in send send it to Omega.
Makes sense, thanks a lot!
 
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These bezels are notoriously difficult to grip but they are also oftentimes filled with grit and grime underneath that makes it much harder to turn. A watchmaker with the proper bezel pliers could have that removed and cleaned in about 5 minutes.

I had a 2541.80 Seamaster that was really difficult to turn. But once cleaned it turned very easily. It was a night and day difference.

Please note that these bezels aren't removed like a Rolex with a case knife. You really need a bezel pliers to do it right.
 
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These bezels are notoriously difficult to grip but they are also oftentimes filled with grit and grime underneath that makes it much harder to turn. A watchmaker with the proper bezel pliers could have that removed and cleaned in about 5 minutes.

I had a 2541.80 Seamaster that was really difficult to turn. But once cleaned it turned very easily. It was a night and day difference.

Please note that these bezels aren't removed like a Rolex with a case knife. You really need a bezel pliers to do it right.
I remove these all the time and they are often dirty underneath. Many times when I get a complaint of the bezel being hard to turn, a simple clean will fix it.