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Seamaster 165.010 help please.

A
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Hi I,mnew to the forum,
My late fathers 165.010 is now away getting a full service after only recently coming to light. Its currently strapless but previously had a BOR . I've had a look and think it would have been a 1036 strap with 511 end links. Could someone confirm this please (or suggest what BOR strap is the correct version).
On a related note are the ebay sellers based in Japan the best place to buy an original strap rather than a copy?
Many Thanks
Mark
 
Davidt
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An Omega 1036 5 row beads of rice with 511 Endlinks is correct for that ref.
11 Endlinks should also fit although they’re slightly earlier they’re effectively the same
 
SkunkPrince
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You can also buy a new 3010/511, the current version, directly from Omega. It was $450, it might have gone up with everything else.
 
MtV
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1502, 1036, 8220 or 3010 are the bracelet references that’ll work for your watch. They all look basically identical.
 
iamvr
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Here is mine with a 1502 bracelet and unnumbered end links.

71030758-3F69-4463-9716-FB3827E19F14.jpeg
 
A
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Many thanks for the responses (and picture). I hadn't realised there were alternatives. I will look to get a 1036 with 511 end links to keep as original as possible and true to what my father wore. Does anyone have a pointer on what I should look to pay for a good example of the bracelet (and whether there is an easier way for a newby like me avoiding copies - I have been looking at some ebay examples in Japan?)
 
Davidt
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£200 or $ should get you a good example. If you’re lucky and patient you might get one a bit cheaper.
Beware if anything too cheap as it may be a fake (although the Endlinks generally aren’t stamped on fakes)
 
SkunkPrince
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A Arcadianred
Many thanks for the responses (and picture). I hadn't realised there were alternatives. I will look to get a 1036 with 511 end links to keep as original as possible and true to what my father wore. Does anyone have a pointer on what I should look to pay for a good example of the bracelet (and whether there is an easier way for a newby like me avoiding copies - I have been looking at some ebay examples in Japan?)
When your watch was new, it probably had #11 links on it. 511 is later, and there can be differences in vintage vs new examples.

IMG_1156.jpeg


In this pic of my two 166.010 watches, the end links have a folded lip on the top "inside" of the end link. Later versions omit this lip. For that reason, if historical accuracy is your goal, then you want vintage #11.

For steel bracelets, don't be afraid to get it refinished if it's in crappy condition. Mine above was refinished, and the case gently touched up. I am a firm believer in "life's too short to wear a crappy-looking watch", but others seem to value the life it's led and the markings to show for it. Always up to you which path you want to take.
Edited:
 
A
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SkunkPrince SkunkPrince
When your watch was new, it probably had #11 links on it. 511 is later, and there can be differences in vintage vs new examples.

IMG_1156.jpeg


In this pic of my two 166.010 watches, the end links have a folded lip on the top "inside" of the end link. Later versions omit this lip. For that reason, if historical accuracy is your goal, then you want vintage #11.

For steel bracelets, don't be afraid to get it refinished if it's in crappy condition. Mine above was refinished, and the case gently touched up. I am a firm believer in "life's too short to wear a crappy-looking watch", but others seem to value the life it's led and the markings to show for it. Always up to you which path you want to take.
Many thanks for this. I'm keen to get the exact strap so it looks like #11 will be the way to go. Main thing now is to avoid fakes. If one needs refinishing thats fine with me as long as its genuine. Beautiful watches by the way.
 
Dan S
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Date and no-date versions with #11 end-links. But I wouldn't hesitate to use 511 endlinks. Perhaps the OP can contribute some photos as well.

IMG_3215.jpeg
 
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