Seamaster 143.64-1, new balance, was it worth it ??

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

Hello there members , my another seamaster , 143.64-1 here , I installed new complete balance I purchased many years ago , hairspring was damaged , I got nos one, still have the old wheel , also I posted before the other one , 143.64-61 that I have, they look the same ,only why the one has , -1, the other -61, ?? , this one is in untouched original condition , with poorly aged dial , I got the balance for $300 and installed it myself ,runs ok, was it worth the fix ? , and is it possible to find just the hairspring as the balance wheel and staf is perfect , opinion please, what you think about overall condition of it , thank you , best regards to all , good day, kazd

Canuck · Oct 5, 2026

The hairspring and balance wheel are carefully matched at the factory. Hairsprings are not generally properly matched to an orphan balance wheel. You can try, but expect it to not be a simple swap.

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

Canuck
The hairspring and balance wheel are carefully matched at the factory. Hairsprings are not generally properly matched to an orphan balance wheel. You can try, but expect it to not be a simple swap.

Thank you for your advice, I did try to untangle hairspring on 354 movement that I purchased for parts, but it didn’t go well haha,🙃 for now I’ll pause on my passionate endeavor and enjoy them , was lucky to get this balance for reasonable price , that was like 10 years ago, now probably $500 or more if you can find one nos, thanks again , oh , what do you think about the watch itself , kazd

ZWD · Oct 5, 2026

Did you check the timing on a timegrapher?

The first version of the 320/321 regulator arm touches the overcoil at a different location than the later version.

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

ZWD
Did you check the timing on a timegrapher?

The first version of the 320/321 regulator arm touches the overcoil at a different location than the later version.

Thank you this is very interesting info , I don’t have timegrapher , may have to invest in one , and some other equipment , now that I’m venturing deeper into this rabbit hole of knowledge, with help from you guys, on this one I just installed the balance and had to readjust the regulator few times to get it right , I’m sure it’s not perfect , without the timegrapher it’s just a try and error ,, I have few more earlier seamaster movements # in 15 mil and 12 mil, I’ll have to look at the springs to see the differences , this is something I had mo clue about, so much to learn still , I would love to get to the point that will be able to service my watches myself to certain degree , now that I researched how much is the cost of a service , it maybe wise to invest in some reasonable tools , may even look into ultrasonic machine , but that involves probably handling some chemical fluids, for now I’ll do what I can to enjoy the collection without stretching thin on budget, thanks again , good day, kazd

ZWD · Oct 5, 2026

you will need a dedicated timegrapher if you are doing any meaningful time regulation. One with an articulating arm, is also important to properly regulate a watch.

You can drop in a newer service balance into an early 321 and it will run, but you will likely find yourself needing to max out the regulator toward the "R" and even still might not be able to achieve a correct rate.

I don't want to be discouraging but I would recommend learning/practicing on something other than 320/321 caliber. Any mistake will be quite costly, and there are a lot more opportunities to make errors. 200-500 series is a great place to practice getting down time properly cleaning and regulation, along with the process of sourcing old parts individually, or from donor movements.

Making a error like bending the forth wheel on a 321 from un/install could be a magnitude order of cost increase on price vs something like a 286 movement.

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

Ah t try hank you

ZWD
you will need a dedicated timegrapher if you are doing any meaningful time regulation. One with an articulating arm, is also important to properly regulate a watch.

You can drop in a newer service balance into an early 321 and it will run, but you will likely find yourself needing to max out the regulator toward the "R" and even still might not be able to achieve a correct rate.

I don't want to be discouraging but I would recommend learning/practicing on something other than 320/321 caliber. Any mistake will be quite costly, and there are a lot more opportunities to make errors. 200-500 series is a great place to practice getting down time properly cleaning and regulation, along with the process of sourcing old parts individually, or from donor movements.

Making an error like bending the forth wheel on a 321 from un/install could be a magnitude order of cost increase on price vs something like a 286

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

ah thank you so much for this exceptional conversation, yes I do realize that doing injury to a vintage omega watch is costly, I damaged few over the years , but was able to get parts or even whole movements in great working order, and they weren't that expensive back years , now a all kinds of guys going into watch parts business , I see one on etsy selling individual parts , looks like he gets a whole movement and strips to pieces. I need complete balance for 352 bumper , looked it up , all the balances go in minutes, for like $125-150, and we talking for not so significant important movements, so I’m refraining from touching anything on 321 and, don’t get me wrong, I would love to, so I resurrected few pieces , I even disassembled 352 entirely , had to replace the main plate,,I found perfect donor , now needs balance, and yes on two of the 321s had to really move the regulator almost to the limit, and is still running little fast .like 2min a day, but 321 has only one regulator , unless you have to rotate the jewel on the bottom , wouldn’t even attempt to do that haha , surely would be a accident to happen, so for extensive perfect service only skilled watchmaker should be doing this, thank you again , good day, kazd

ZWD · Oct 5, 2026

The 321/320 has a singular regulating arm but there is an early and later version of the regulating arm. The regulating pins are located in a different position relative to the center of the balance cock tick marks. Hence, when installing a more modern 1327 balance complete into an older 321, you will find yourself maxing out the regulator in the 'R' direction. Adjustments are needed to have the regulator pin centered.

kazd · Oct 5, 2026

ZWD
The 321/320 has a singular regulating arm but there is an early and later version of the regulating arm. The regulating pins are located in a different position relative to the center of the balance cock tick marks. Hence, when installing a more modern 1327 balance complete into an older 321, you will find yourself maxing out the regulator in the 'R' direction. Adjustments are needed to have the regulator pin centered.

thank you , I now get it, all the intricacies details of the watchmaking art, it is not for amateur to tackle 321, I won’t attempt to do any damage that, maybe costly, when the time will get better budget wise., I’ll think about in trusting the complicated work to a professional, thank you again , will be in touch ,good day, kazd

Seamaster 143.64-1, new balance, was it worth it ??

kazd

Canuck

kazd

ZWD

kazd

ZWD

kazd

kazd

ZWD

kazd

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