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Dr.Sascha
·I know there are boatload of fakes out there, so proceeding with extreme caution. Thoughts on this one? Thanks in advance for the advice, good OF folk.
Seamaster 120, real or fake?
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M'Bob
·I would think this could help:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/my-...ers-what-to-look-for-and-what-to-avoid.38032/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/my-...ers-what-to-look-for-and-what-to-avoid.38032/
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Dr.Sascha
·I'm thinking redial. The outer hashmarks are way too small, the 120 isn't in italics, and the m. is unusual. The hour indices look wrong, too, and there's no "T" by swiss made. But I can't find a single white/cream dial as a reference, which is in itself a warning sign, but also just frustrating!
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sonicosa
·Based on the pip and etching on the back, I think it is one of the modern fake kits with an artificially aged bezel / case and fake repainted dial. I would stay far away from this one.
It’s hard to say from these pics, but I think there is a possibility the Omega and Seamaster text is original to this dial, and someone added the “120 m.” and the long black minute markers. If you look at the 120 text on authentic versions of this watch, it is slightly slanted / italicized, a different typeface with a small serif on the “1”, much different shape to the “2”, and the text does not include any “meters” designation like some other models did (the 166.088 comes to mind.)
Not that is matters with the rest of this catastrophe, but the wheel train bridge is also missing a screw.
It’s hard to say from these pics, but I think there is a possibility the Omega and Seamaster text is original to this dial, and someone added the “120 m.” and the long black minute markers. If you look at the 120 text on authentic versions of this watch, it is slightly slanted / italicized, a different typeface with a small serif on the “1”, much different shape to the “2”, and the text does not include any “meters” designation like some other models did (the 166.088 comes to mind.)
Not that is matters with the rest of this catastrophe, but the wheel train bridge is also missing a screw.
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sonicosa
·Also, you’re correct that there were no white, or silver dial models in this reference.
The lume pips are also wrong, as the entire marker (painted at 5 minute increments) was lumed on these dials. The applied markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 should have lumed inlays, with a bit of additional lume painted outside the applied marker at 12.
(A lot of words to say this is generally all wrong / fake, but I hope the info is helpful to you and other people looking for these. As @M’Bob, who I can never tag for some reason, said, that thread is a goldmine of info and should be studied thoroughly before one considers buying one of these.)
The lume pips are also wrong, as the entire marker (painted at 5 minute increments) was lumed on these dials. The applied markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 should have lumed inlays, with a bit of additional lume painted outside the applied marker at 12.
(A lot of words to say this is generally all wrong / fake, but I hope the info is helpful to you and other people looking for these. As @M’Bob, who I can never tag for some reason, said, that thread is a goldmine of info and should be studied thoroughly before one considers buying one of these.)
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