I own a Submariner Rolex, Blue Face 16613 18k/SS with Serial Number P84XXXX, which was made in 2000. Bracelet Number 93253 18k/SS. I need to restore the Rolex Oyster bracelet that has stretched over the 20 years. I am a novice at “watch repair” but I am good with tools and fixing things. I am thinking of tackling this task on my own. I think I can do it with some help from the pros on this forum. I was hoping, more like rolling the dice, I would not need to do any Gold soldering for this restoration job. If I need this service, I will figure it out at the time.

I think the tools I will need are an “Oyster Link Remover Tool” that disassembles the pressure fit link for Rolex Oyster bracelets. A good quality watch repair tool kit with different types of plyers. A Metal Band Link Pusher Vice, to press the links back together. A Digital Vernier Micrometer Caliper Measuring Tool for measuring the exact size of Double Serrated End Link (DSEL) Pins. There are a few places online to purchase the tools. The prices range from $150 - $450+ for each of the puller and vice tool. The cheaper puller and vice tools are direct ship from China via Aliexpress.

The Rolex Oyster band are held together with 4 pressure fit links on each side of the watch case, a total of 8 pressure links on the entire bracelet. The replacement pins, again, are called a Double Serrated End Link (DSEL) Pin. I don’t know the size of the DSL pins for the 93253 bracelet. I have read the DSL pins are 1.2mm x a range from 16mm- 20mm long???

There are 3 DSEL pins per link, there are 4 links per side, total of 8 links = 24 DSEL pins. Now I might have over counted the DSEL Pins, it’s OK. When I order the DSEL pins I will overorder the pins anyway. I will need some “Screw Pins” for both sides of the bracelet that connects the pressure links to the screw links and the clasp. I have read I will need Loctite 221 to put on the ends of the DSEL pins before they are pressed into the links?


Question to anyone who has restored an Oyster Bracelet:

Am I headed in the right direction and have I left out anything?

What is the MM size of the Double Serrated End Link Pins?

What is the MM size of the Screw Pins?

I have a few websites to source DSL pins and Screw Pins from, I can share that info. Where do you source these Pins from?


If anyone can help its appreciated. Thank you in advance!!

 

Oh boy this might not end well. I would send it to Rolliworks in California.

 

By the time you have bought all the kit it would of been cheaper to send to the pros

 

I agree with Fred. The issue is not just the pin wear but also the lateral wear on the links themselves. You may see curved gaps at the edges of the links where the neighboring link rubbed against it- grinding the metal away. Just replacing the pins won’t get rid of that wear. A place like Rolliworks will laser weld the missing metal and restore the bracelet. Their prices aren’t outrageous considering the work involved from what I have read.

 

Thanks for the responses so far, I understand what is being said.

I have seen Rollieworks video and post on restoring a Oyster 18k/SS bracelet, great job! They do great work,but am estimating the restoration work on my bracelet from them would be about $700+. Right now, I have other bills that need the attention of that money.

But, my 92353 is not in that bad of shape so I might get lucky (right there I jinxed myself ha-ha). I have not ordered the tools just yet. But am very close to making that purchase and doing this myself.

To be honest, I have reached out to one shop for this service and service on the watch movement - Classic Watch Repair, Michael Young’s shop. I figure it would be worth it if the shop can do both services at the same time. CWR-MY shop prices are very reasonable and is highly regarded on many forums. CWR-MY shop must be busy because they have not returned a quote request via email and their website? I do have reservations sending the watch from the USA (LI,NY) to Hong Kong but as others say “what’s the difference where you send it if its insured”

So, again, I am a few days away from buying all the tools that’s needed and tackling this job on my own. I do think I can do this with decent results. No matter what, I am confident when I am done with my repair it would be in better shape than before. BUT that’s my take. Anyone do this? Anyone have any advice on doing this work?

 

My only advise, if you are going to do this yourself, is to buy a clapped out parts bracelet and practice on that. You can buy sections of oysters on eBay for not huge money.

 

Looking closely at work they have done for me, it actually looks like they may use internal sleeves sometimes, although that isn't shown in their videos.

Edit: I am specifically referring to rivet oyster bracelets.

 

I was actually talking about this kind of lateral wear


But sleeves make sense inside the links as laser welding in there would be tough I’m sure.

 

Yes, laser welding is done to fix the cosmetic issues, and other approaches are used to tighten the links. Rolliworks also puts a lot of effort into restoring the shapes of individual links, which are often bent/kinked when the bracelet is disassembled. My sense is that good bracelet restoration takes a lot of skill and experience. It's not just replacing pins.

 

Incidentally, I think you have transposed numbers in the bracelet reference, but I knew what you meant.

 

YES! I will correct. Thanks

 

The man is full of enthusiasm. I wish that everything worked out for him.

 

Anyone know the approx bracelet restore price at Rolliworks?

 

Email them as an estimate will greatly vary on the material, wear, and proposed work to be done. Michael is very fast to respond. I sent an email for quote at 11pm and got a response within 15 minutes.

 

As mentioned, it really depends on the specific bracelet. SS vs. gold vs. TT. Oyster vs. jubilee. Folded link vs solid vs rivet. How badly damaged is the bracelet? Do you need links added? Is laser welding required? Nobody can answer your question without more detail.

Here is their starting price.
https://www.rolliworks.com/bookings-checkout/bracelet-repair

 

of course someone could answer i.e. "I had a stainless jubilee bracelet, no damage just a lot of stretch, paid $500"
I wasn't asking for a quote-

 

Did you email them? In the 9 hours since you first asked, you could have already been answered. They give you a detailed quote of all the work they will do with an itemized price breakdown.

 

Bye Gum!! If I had a bracelet that needed work that's what I would have done--but I don't